Re: FUEL

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Engine will run on starting fluid alone, but it's tough on the valves.

RPM relay located under metal bracket in relay compartment, closest to
engine (two other matching relays under there are main and auxiliary).
Remove harness and insert jumper between brown and white/purple
terminals (opposite corners). Pump should spin even without energizing
car.

You could have air trapped in fuel system. Manually operating air
sensor plate, while pump spinning, will bleed through injectors. Louie
G's #10115 (rest its stainless steel soul) didn't catch until we
pumped its plate. Started flawlessly thereafter even with cold start
tube inactive.

Does "plugs on" mean "high voltage passing through plugs" or simply
"plug wires firmly seated"? If the latter, make sure you do indeed
have spark. Is possible you could have knocked ballast resistor wire
loose while working back there, or otherwise interrputed ignition.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> Thanks, cruzmd sprayed some starting fluid in the mixture control
unit and it did kick over briefly, very brief. The fuel pump return
line was touched and fuel pump pulled out but hose does not appear to
be kinked very hard to tell though. New cap, new rotor, new wires,
new vacuum lines all checked double checked and checked again. It ran
before I disconnected the fuel distributor but again all fuel hoses
checked, and again checked many times. I don't have a fuel pressure
gage and where is the R.P.M relay and how do I jump it and what would
I be looking for. Tried to crank over 60 times NO GO??? Plugs on,
Fuses good! It's got to be a fuel problem but what could it be?
> 
> 
> 
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