RE: [DML] more issues with ignition

["John Hervey" <john@xxxx>]

Bill, I think he has the voltage, Normally about 10.25 is the cranking
voltage to the coil under normal conditions. With the engine so tight, I
think what's happening is the voltage/current is being drawn down so low it
doesn't want to start. Remember the old days when we used to parallel two
batteries to get a new rebuilt engine to crank over.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxx]
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 7:02 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] more issues with ignition


4.5 volts into coil isn't going to cut it. 6+ is probably minimum, and
I'd shoot for 8. Voltage problem precedes coil. Blue/Yellow wire to
ballast resistors is primary ignition feed, so your problem goes back
even further. Check white wire (or main brown wire) from ignition
relay (closest to seats) to see if you can get 12 volts there.

Just run a wire from jump start post to positive side of coil and car
may well start (assuming you've got 12 volts there). Won't hurt short
term, but will eventually cook ignition module if you leave it.