Re: more issues with ignition

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

PRV is nothing if not HOT (anyone know if this is characteristic of
aluminum engines? Am used to cast iron myself). Have burned my fingers
on manual idle screws badly enough to blister.

My prefered method to check for spark is a timing light (are useful
for so much more than just timing ignition). In a pinch you can pull a
plug wire, extend contact beyond boot with a screwdriver, place NEAR
the block, then watch for a spark to jump the gap.

Next time try running a temporary wire from the jump start post to
positive side of coil. Spade terminals on ballast resistor do not age
well. Heat and the elements, combined with rediculously small gauge
wire, seem to lead to premature failure.

Remember that the fuel pump does not spin until engine is running
(short burp only when car first energized). If your accumulator is
fresh shouldn't be a problem. Could try hot start trick (jump cold
start valve with warm up regulator), or jump RPM relay to force pump on. 

Whose fuel tank baffle are you using? Stock DeLo sucks from the top so
hill shouldn't be a problem. John Hervey's sucks from the bottom. Once
before sending unit replaced ran my tank REAL low. Limped OK to gas
station, but going around a long curve started sucking air as
remaining fuel sloshed away from pickup (baffle is open on the bottom.
Will not hold fuel indefinitely). If you're running John Hervey's make
sure pump is low enough in boot and don't push your luck by running on
fumes.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Henry" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> Well, my joy only lasted one day. Friday, after replacing the
distributor/pick up coil, the car ran very well for a nice hour+ long
drive. Saturday, I'm driving to a friends house, and nothing seemed
out of the ordinary until I accidentally stalled the engine on a
slight hill. I'm not sure if I actually stalled it, or it lost power
and stalled on it's own. After that it would not start AT ALL. It
cranks, the fuel pump is working, everything seems totally normal - it
just won't start. It has a full tank of gas and all the fuses are
fine. I've replaced the RPM replay, the fuel accumulator, fuel pump
all within the last year or two. At this point, I'd like to see if I
actually have spark and the ignition coil is working - what's the best
way to test this? What other things should I check?
> 
> Also, as I waited for a tow truck, I noticed that the top of the
intake manifold took a LONG time to cool down. Even after sitting for
more than two hours unstarted, it was still almost too hot to touch. 
By this time, the cylinder head/valve covers had cooled to the touch,
but not the intake. Is this normal? 
> 
> And as I waited three hours for a flatbed to show up, one guy pulled
up and told me my engine seized because "they all do that." Gee thanks.
> 
> -Hank