Re: High pitch sound from clutch

["John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxx>]

Well, that is great information. As much as it is a big job, I will 
for now just drive the car as is. Too bad the bearing is harder to 
replace then an alternator. I feared that it would be labor 
intensive. What is the scenario if the bearing is not replaced soon? 
I have no intentions to become a grease monkey soon, so I probably 
want to leave it alone for as long as possible.Yah, I know, why not 
take care of all the little bugs in the car?? Lazy, I guess!
Bye 
John Elgersma
10250
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> 
wrote:
> It is just a guess that it is the throwout bearing. Usually they
> make noise when you step on the clutch, not the other way around.
> The way you "fix" this is to remove the transmission and clutch.
> Normally you just replace everything in the clutch including the
> throwout bearing.
> It is also a good time to check over the transmission and replace
> the oil, any leaking seals, roll pin, etc. This can be done by
> someone with some skills on cars, it is not too difficult. The
> hardest part is the physical removal of the transmission, it is
> large, awkward, and heavy especially when working on jackstands
> and a creeper. With the help of assistants it is not too bad, the
> transmission is not all that big. Call one of the "D" venders and
> get all the clutch parts and info before you start. While you are
> doing this job you also inspect the C/V boots and depending on the
> car it is a good idea to remove the half-shafts and relubricate
> the joints. If the clutch line has not been upgraded to the
> braided hose that should be done too. Inspect the clutch master
> and slave cylinders and if they are leaking they should also be
> replaced at this time. At the very least they should be
> flushed with fresh brake fluid. Finally after replacing the clutch 
> and trans go over the gearshift linkage. Clean, lubricate, and check
> the adjustments. When ordering all these parts a good spare part to
> also have is a pivot bolt for the shift linkage. If it ever breaks
> you cannot shift. It is a "special" shoulder bolt and not easily
> available when you need it on a weekend! Keep it in the glove box
> and if you ever need it at least a mechanic could put it in for you.
> You should definately have the Workshop Manual to guide you and a
> full set of metric wrenches and sockets. A good flat level floor,
> creeper, jackstands, and jack are also important. You can use the
> floor jack to remove and replace the trans with your helpers holding
> the trans on the jack as you handle the jack up and down. I have done
> the automatic trans which is larger and heavier all by myself but the
> 5-speed is a little harder because you have to go in and out of the
> clutch so everything has to be very lined up, especially when
> reinstalling.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757

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