Re: Fan lead wire problem
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Re: Fan lead wire problem



Will post open response for benefit of list:

Circuit splits to individual fans at fan fail socket. If you've got
juice to one fan (assuming wiring still factory), everything before
that socket is OK.

Test for voltage leaving fan fail socket on each line. Is easiest to
reach female connectors by unbolting whole relay bank and measuring
underneath. Unfortunately can give false positives if jostling bank
closes connection otherwise loose. Alternative is to leave bank in
place and pierce insulation of each line with an ice pick light.
Female connectors can get stretched loose. Release from relay socket
with an unbent paper clip or jeweler's screwdriver and tighten with
pliers (remove from underneath socket).

If voltage leaves fan fail socket OK, test for voltage BEFORE wiring
harness connector at fan. Connector is right next to asphalt and can
get corroded etc. Again, pierce insulation with ice pick light. If
voltage is there OK, connector is bad. If not, wire is broken or cut
somewhere in between. Also seem to remember a post once about
intermediate connection to fans inside windshield washer compartment(?).

Check out message #33470 (last paragraph). Fan fail socket is the most
difficult to reach. Is understandable if jumper plugged in wrong
(doubt if that was true ground, however, otherwise car would be on
fire by now).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie G <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Group,
> 
> Recently on a trip my fans started going haywire. My "Fanfix"
stopped engaging the fans... and as an emergency fix the otterstat and
fan fail relay were jumpered so that I'd at least have fans running.
After doing this I noticed that the passenger side fan was not running
anymore. I tested the lead wire which powers it, and indeed it's not
getting any power. I have no idea how to trace this problem... does
anyone have any suggestions?
> 
> Louie Golden
> VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
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