Re: Heater Advice

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Any vacuum operated 5/8" heater core shut off valve can be substituted
for the factory original. Very affordable ($12-$15) at a parts house.
It'll be a bend & stretch, but you can replace with rest of block
intact. Question is: what is condition of remaining heater core
plumbing? (You mention replacing bleed line with clear tubing but do
not mention any other hoses).

Don't know how well known, but only time this valve is activated is at
max A/C setting. All other times heater core is charged. That's how
temperature is affected by hot-cold dial (attached by cable to a door
over heater core. Turning towards hot routes more air over heater core).

If no breeze is felt through foot well vents in A/C mode your lower
door diaphragm should be connected OK.

Re: clear turbing -- this is probably bigger danger than old heater
core hoses. Add my voice to those recommending immediate replacement.
Don't worry about seeing the bubbles. If it's connected correctly,
it'll bleed OK.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss@xxxx> wrote:
> I have a question I'm hoping can be answered or at least you all can 
> steer me in the right direction.
> 
> My A/C is out, which may not end up being such a bad thing, since it 
> has helped me notice that with the fan on, heat setting to cold, and 
> selector in any position, I get cold air out of the vents, but heat 
> from under the dash. It is not blowing that I can feel, there is just 
> heat emanating from there. It makes the D unbearable to drive without 
> A/C here in central Florida. 
> 
> However, when I turn off the fan, the temperature with the windows 
> open is bearable. Only with fan on does it get real hot in the car.
> 
> A friend suggested that my "hot water valve," might not be working. 
> This is the valve in the heater core line, with the odd looking 
> vacuum operated valve just forward of the engine on the passenger 
> side.
> 
> Any body have any dealings with this or can offer me advice on how to 
> test? I figure I'll need to pull it out, which is a bummer since I 
> just got it all bled after I installed my own version of the auto 
> bleed (with clear tubing).
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan in Cocoa (3932)