Re: A few brake questions

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

You can separate the caliper halves. You will need to replace the "O"
ring that seals the halves together. There is no torque value, just
get them TIGHT. If the bores have no pitting get a brake hone and
lightly clean them up. Unless the pistons look PERFECT, that is no
pitting or chrome flaking, they should be replaced. Of course new
piston seals are required and maybe the bleeder screw. Before assembly
wet all of the parts with Castrol GTLMA DOT 4 brake fluid.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "L. Sandel" <ls@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> I'm currently changing out the front brakes, and had a few issues
crop up
> during the procedure.
> 
> I was planning on fixing up the calipers with new seals. One of the
pistons
> had almost seized, and the others weren't moving too freely. This made
> stopping an awkward & noisy process.
> 
> First issue: I separated the calipers to facilitate the rebuilding
process.
> Then I noticed the note in the shop manual that says something like
"do not
> ever even think about separating the calipers". It this a genuine
concern?
> If not, are there recommended torque values for the bolts?
> 
> Second issue: I'm not sure what constitutes a bad caliper
piston/bore from a
> good one... So I took a few pictures:
> 
> http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/Delorean/brakes/caliper.jpg (72k)
> http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/Delorean/brakes/caliperpiston.jpg
> (44k)
> 
> All of the calipers look like the one pictured, but the piston shown
is the
> worst of the bunch (which doesn't seem too bad). The caliper bores are
> smooth to the touch.
> 
> So, are these salvageable, or should I order in some new ones?
> 
> Anybody actually used the 76 Capri calipers? They're only $70 at
Murrays...
> Much easier on the wallet than most sources.
> 
> Thanks for any help,
> Luke/10270