Re: Another update on my tuneup, not going good.
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Re: Another update on my tuneup, not going good.



Oh dear -- is it time to post your physical address so someone can pay
you a visit?

Car will not run without idle speed motor *OR* throttle bypass screws
built into upper air assembly *OR* cracking the throttle plates. The
choice is yours. I've experimented with all three and found idle speed
motor preferable (although I did relocate the motor away from spark
plug 4).

If/when you get your idle speed motor working, make sure you've got a
decent connection on the hose that feeds the motor from upper air
assembly. Is tricky. My previous owner had kinked so badly that a
combination of motor and bypass screws was necessary. One advantage of
relocating the motor is I now thread about 18 inches of 3/4" hose to
the barb under the upper air assembly -- much easier than that little
formed elbow.

For now, you may just want to isolate the idle speed motor and set
with the bypass screws. Remember to cap off *BOTH* the barb under the
upper air assembly and the cold start tube. Guarantee car won't run
otherwise (world's largest vacuum leak). Screw closest to air sensor
plate lets air into bypass circuit. Middle screw is driver side
intake. Farthest screw is passenger side intake. Of course you want
driver's and passenger's set the same (they're called "balancing" screws).

Advantage of idle speed motor is it can automatically adjust for all
sorts of engine loads. If you set manually you may need to set high
for automatic transmission, A/C compressor, etc.

I'll bet contacts on top of the idle speed motor would accept the tiny
sized quick connects, if you wanted to jetison your damaged plug. John
Hervey claims to stock all sorts of "European" plugs. Ask Darryl
Tinnerstet what he's got (www.delorean-parts.com).

Re: jumping relays -- don't ask me where my head was last night (or
was it Wednesday, can't remember). #106 is the Lambda relay. #109 is
the fuel pump relay. I remembered looking at that when I was trying to
decipher my replacement block (I have no Lambda system) and just ran
with it. Sorry. Yellow/Red is the trigger wire FROM the fuel pump
relay, not a line to it. Jumping it at the Lambda relay wouldn't
accomplish a thing. Fuel pump relay is located under the metal plate
behind relay banks (last one, losest to engine). Jump Brown to
White/Purple and you'll be in business. I kind of lost interest in the
fuel pump relay after I got my new accumulator so I'm a bit rusty
(never even located in car until tonight. When tinkering last summer I
just jumped under the hood). Sorry.

Nice to know I'm the only one reading my own posts.

Oh, relay sockets accept standard large size quick connects (male). Do
yourself a favor and use large gauge wire. I keep a couple of jumpers
in the car at all times (got me home when I melted my headlight dash
switch). "Underside" of fuel pump relay socket is actually accessible
(relay is sideways) so you could just use a piece of wire from
"below." Try it and you'll hear the pump spin -- a very different
sound from the idle speed motor, which I think people sometimes
confuse when tinkering in the engine compartment.

Re: missing gaskets on your U pipes -- you can cut replacements from
cardboard (like a cereal box). Or you could apply a THIN layer of
silicone to the mating surfaces (rather than gumming up from outside).
You didn't loose the O rings where pipes meet throttle plates did you?

Post may be too long for Dave already, so I'll shut up & go to bed.

Bill Robertson
#5939 (purring like a contented kitten)

>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, I announced yesterday that after doing a tune up twice (or at
least
> dismantling it twice) I was able to get the car running again. Even
though
> I had a small vacuum leak, I was proud of being able to finally get it
> running again. I took it to work today, and it ran fine except for
it had
> hardly any power below 3,000 rpms, but still ran relatively smooth.
When I
> took it to lunch, the idle was extremely low, and I found the wires
on the
> connector at the idle speed motor were damaged. ...





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