Re: [DML] Re graining our car

[hugo mederos <miami5606@xxxx>]

Thanks WAlter for the detail discription of your
technic.
On the sand paper technic. You say you do small areas
at a time do you go back and forthabout four or more
strokes, or is it one swipe of it in each area?

I'll practice it at work tomorow on a scrap piece of
metal.

How long do you think it will take to do a whole car?
The fender flares and the window post are the hardest
parts.
Thanks Agin. Walter for taking the time.

Hugo Vin 2800



--- Walter Coe <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> To get the correct texture, I have found that
> anything finer than 80 grit
> sandpaper is a waste of time -- it polishes instead
> of textures. Once the
> grain is set proper then a coarse Scotch-Bite pad
> will mellow it to the OEM
> finish.
> 
> From experience, I have found that long smooth
> strokes are bad -- very bad.
> What happens is if you get the slightest bit crooked
> then you get long
> crooked deep scratches. The secret to an OEM finish
> is to use very short
> strokes. Another lesson I've learned from
> experience is to not use a "touch
> & to" technique. (This is how a pilot lands the
> plane & takes off again
> without stopping.) If you do this with your
> sandpaper, then you end up with
> J-shaped scratches. So... in order to refinish a
> small area by hand, put
> the 80 grit paper on a sanding block (preferably one
> used for automotive
> use. They are rubber & conform to the panel's
> contour unlike a wood block.)
> Carefully place the pad on the panel without
> shifting it. Then press hard
> and quickly lift off. This will produce very short
> scratches which best
> emulate the OEM finish put on using a flapper wheel.
> 
> For large areas, I have had great success using a
> belt sander, BUT -- DON'T
> TRY THIS WITHOUT FIRST PRACTICING ON A SCRAP PIECE
> OF SHEET METAL. The
> problem with belt sanders is the backing to the
> paper is hard and
> unforgiving. It will put an uneven deep gouge
> pattern in the metal.
> Instead place a small sponge behind the platen (the
> thin piece of sheet
> metal that backs the sandpaper). This will create a
> raised area on the belt
> sander's working surface, and this is the only part
> of it you want touching
> the car. This works great for broad flat areas but
> will not get near curves
> such as the fender flairs. It produces a pattern of
> short straight
> scratches that looks just like the OEM finish from a
> flapper wheel.
> 
> The last time I was at NAPA, I saw on the shelf a
> small 80 grit flapper
> wheel made to fit a power drill. This was around
> 1.5 to 2" diameter. I'm
> tempted to try it in the "hard to reach" areas.
> 
> Or you can just spend the bucks and buy a really
> flapper wheel (if you can
> find one).
> 
> Walt Tampa, FL
> 
> 
> 
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