wiring and AC charging

["checksix3" <checksix3@xxxx>]

Hmmm...I guess we will have to agree to disagree.

>>Some of the circuits are run pretty near their limits of 
capacity but the trick is to keep everything clean and tight. Do the 
relay upgrade, Fanzilla, and Lockzilla, install a battery master.<<

The "trick" is to completely weed out the design weaknesses. While 
resistance heating and I2R losses can be dealt with by good 
connections, no amount of aftermarket gadgets will alieviate poor 
design. Lack of overcurrent protection at the source is just plain 
stupid. The "upgrades" you mention are designed for non technical 
people, hence the plug and play nature of them. Why would anyone with 
the ability to correct the design flaws resort to them?

There is no reason for so many branch circuits to be powered when in 
the accessory position. Everything from the A/C clutch to the auto 
tranny electronics is (or can be) powered. Why? Bad design is why. 
Battery master? Others can live with that, I'll change it so as to be 
functional. Other than long term storage, there is no reason the 
battery should ever drain if the car's electrical system is designed 
and maintained properly.

And why would I install a battery master instead of fixing the system 
so it operates properly? In other words, band-aids are unacceptable.
I'm amazed at what D owners live with, I've no interest in owning a 
maintenance pig that needs frequent attention. My Toyota Supra 
doesn't have any of these problems and soon this car won't either.

>> The best way to charge it (if everything is working right) is to 
fill until you get the suction pressure correct and the compressor 
cycles. <<

Low side pressure and cycling in a CCOT system can be dependent on 
many things. The best way to charge is by weight. Actually, its even 
better to use a sight glass, that way charge weight is irrelevant. 
Since this system doesn't have one, I use an electronic glass.
Again, your method is fine for do it yourself types but I'm EPA 609 
certified and prefer the proper way, since I have the license and 
equipment. 

>>The fuel return should dump close to the suction pick-up so under 
very low fuel conditions it will still get some fuel. Just leave some 
spacing so under conditions where the system is purging air it isn't 
sucked right back in.<<

Disagree again. The factory put the return away from the inlet as it 
should be. If the return is near the inlet and the fuel level falls 
below it, the resulting turbulence can cause starvation. Its the 
baffle's job to keep fuel suction constant under low level and 
sloshing conditions. Get a low tank level and jet return fuel into 
the suction area and you could have a problem, its why its not done 
in aircraft.

Of course, all this is just my opinion, your mileage may vary.