Re: radio bezel/blower repair

["jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

You obviously aren't familiar with "Lucas, Prince of Darkness"!!!!
In general most of the wiring problems aren't as serious as they 
seem. Some of the circuits are run pretty near their limits of 
capacity but the trick is to keep everything clean and tight. Do the 
relay upgrade, Fanzilla, and Lockzilla, install a battery master 
switch, and clean ALL of the ground connections. If you have a good 
battery then unless "Jack the Ripper" has worked on your wiring you 
should be OK. Make sure that all of the fuses are the correct size for 
the circuit (sometimes people stick in whatever is handy).
The factory did change the Freon charge. The best way to charge it 
(if everything is working right) is to fill until you get the suction 
pressure correct and the compressor cycles. When modifying the fuel 
pick-up leave some rubber in there to avoid transmitting vibrations 
from the fuel pump directly into the tank and frame. The fuel return 
should dump close to the suction pick-up so under very low fuel 
conditions it will still get some fuel. Just leave some spacing so 
under conditions where the system is purging air it isn't sucked right 
back in.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello folks,
> 
> Pulled and repaired my heater/AC blower today. Lots of rust in 
bottom 
> bearing but otherwise OK. Water collects at the blower bottom 
through 
> the cooling tube, suggest drilling small drainage holes when you 
have 
> it out or replacing it. Better still is to increase tube penetration 
> into the duct by cementing a smaller ID tube into the larger one.
> 
> Also pulled and repaired the auto tranny electronics, rebuilt the 
A/C 
> mode control and leaked checked, added oil and charged the A/C 
> system. Was a busy day. I recall reading that DMC had issued an old 
> service note to reduce the R12 charge down from 2.8 pounds
> to 2.2 pounds, anyone familiar with that note?
> 
> Thanks to all who suggested the foam on the rear of the heater box
> to solve the low airflow problem, that indeed was the culprit.
> 
> The bezel on my Craig radio is warped so I'm looking for a new one.
> (I'll buy the entire radio if the price is right.)
> 
> I'm machining tig welding up a new SS pickup assembly for the fuel 
> pump. It'll replace the hose and be a straight drop down (or slight 
> offset) to a custom SS baffle assembly. Anyone tried this kind of 
> thing before? Have to keep the return line away from the baffle or 
> may have problems when the fuel level is low (proper baffle design 
> will prevent this.) This could explain why some of you are having 
> suction problems even with the spring installed. 
> 
> Changing most of the coolant hoses under the car to PTFE under 
> stainless flex used in aircraft, and SS coolant bellows for supply 
> and return at the engine. Anyone done this, or anything else, to 
> improve MTBF of the cooling system? 
> 
> Going to change the wiring also. Studying the schematic shows an 
> appalling lack of design expertise. For instance, too many things on 
> the accessory relay that shouldn't be. What other car allows 
> energizing the A/C clutch and fans with the key in the first 
position 
> and the engine off? (There are lots of other things hot in the car 
> that shouldn't be hot in accessory.)
> 
> Also, the car doesn't seem to have a fusable link for the main power 
> circuit and there is too much wiring upstream of the fuse box 
without 
> any overcurrent protection. Don't get me wrong, I like my new toy 
but 
> I've seldom seen an electrical system so poorly designed.
> 
> Gary