[DML] Re: unusual speedo failure

["Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>]

From: <DMCVegas@xxxx>
> Had the same exact problem on my car. Dust cap had lost grip, and
> wasn't turning the speedo cable.
>
> Easy no hasle fix: Buy a new cap. It's cheap, and simply snaps right
> on. No worrying about gluing, or fabricating anything.

I tried a different dust cap from a parts car I picked up recently, and it
fit the same way -- too loose. This cap had been sitting out in the weather
for a few years. The sun bleached it some, but it isn't otherwise damaged.
Maybe these two caps have shrunk with age (not likely) or they are dependent
on having the angle drive cable being long enough to spring them against the
wheel's rim for friction. Not withstanding, my original cap is now a bit
worn from driving about 12 miles with it slipping.

From: "Jim Strickland" <ihaveanaccount@xxxx>
> speaking of speedometers, I'm been left wondering about the lower speedo
> cable... It just seems too long.. I got the 'short' one that was
> reccommedned by DMC houston, but I'm still confused about where to put
> it.. It's twisted into almost a complete circle to take up the slack in
> length.. Is this how its supposed to be?

It sounds to me like maybe you have the older version long cable. How long
is your new one? My original cable (sheath) was 90cm long. I got the
shorter version from another car and a reproduction from PJ Grady. Both are
65.5cm long. The original (longer one) was tie-wrapped to a hose (the
vacuum line to the power assist or vapor recovery line, I think) running
along the frame. The shorter cable is more of a direct run but should be
way too short to have enough slack to even begin to make a loop. Also, for
the shorter cable there is supposed to be a wire loop bracket that bolts to
the brake caliper. This is supposed to take strain off of the cable where
it meets the angle drive and stop the cable from flopping around. I hear
that the original ones almost always break off, so see if you still have one
on your car. The longer cable used a plastic clip instead of a wire loop.
I hear this wasn't very reliable because it would allow the cable to bend
too sharply near the angle drive which strains the gears. If you value your
angle drive, the shorter cable is much better because it is easier to turn.
The longer cable is more apt to bind/whip around which causes the
speedometer to give a bouncing reading.

From: <dherv10@xxxx>
> Walt and group. What if I had a metal cap made with extra beef / metal
where
> the cable installs. I have a machine shop that loves specials.

John, you think just like I do! -- make a new part from scratch no matter
how much it costs or how long it takes. I always love an engineering
challenge. Personally, I am waiting for DMC Houston to come out with their
new electronic angle drive/speedo replacement. I'm really excited about it.
It will be interesting to see how they work the bugs out. Either they need
to make their electronic angle drive with the cable too long or put tape on
the dust shield.

I am suspicious that if anyone has a dust shield fit tightly without the
wheel on the car then they have enough rust in the hub to make friction. I
scraped all the rust out of mine, so bingo -- loose dust shield. What
baffles me is how the thing suddenly decided to loosen up after putting over
1000 miles on the car. Speaking of rust, I highly recommend to everyone to
smear some thick wheel bearing grease on the inside of their rims before
putting the wheels back on the car. Having unpainted dissimilar metals
(aluminum rim w/ steel hub) touching like that with room for water to get
between is recipe for corrosion problems. I have had trouble getting my
front wheels off the car before for this reason. I would feel pretty stupid
having to change a flat tire on the side of the road and not be able to get
the
old wheel off. You can only kick a wheel so hard without knocking the car
off the jack -- especially if you are on soft ground.

Now get ready to laugh your ass off. I found an unlikely aftermarket
replacement dust shield. This is a 62mm lens cap off of my camera. It is
spring loaded, so it always has a friction fit. The only thing it needs is
a square hole cut in the center. Some caps have springs in the very center,
so it would be okay to make the hole 2 or 3mm off center. And lens caps can
cost less than NOS dust shields. Drawbacks -- the springs might rust, and
the cap is a bit thin. Vibration might allow it to pop off. But a sleeve
with a set screw on the end of the cable poking out would hold it on just
fine.


Walt Tampa, FL