Re: [DML] Re: PJ Grady suspension vs. USA DMC suspension

["Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>]

I installed 4 PJ Grady shocks on my car with the PJ Grady lowered front
springs. I could type all day to you about the experience, but I'll try to
be brief. ANY new shock is better than an OEM shock. Unless you are into
higher-end upgrades, then don't fool with the custom shocks. For the money,
you can do very well with using the NAPA or Monroe equivelants that are
mentioned in the parts cross-reference lists that are floating around.

Also unless you are into higer-end upgrades, don't fool with replacing your
rear springs. I feel that DMC Houston's front & rear spring upgrade is
unnecessary. It is only the OEM front springs that are too tall. There
rear springs are fine. If you want to lower the rear springs too, you have
3 options that do not include replacing or cutting the springs.

Replacing the front shocks is easy. Just jack the car up, unbolt the old
shocks and put the new ones in You will need some spacers at the bottom.
If the OEM spacers don't fit, then make some or use a stack of washers.

The rear shocks are a different story. For that you either need the PJ
Grady shocks, Marty Maier's clamp collar conversion or Byrne Henninger's
conversion kit.
The PJ Grady rear shocks have a snap ring that is height adjustible, so you
can use this to lower your rear a little if you want.
Marty Maier's kit uses a clamp collar that can be placed anywhere along the
shock body which makes the rear height completely adjustible.
Byrne Henninger's conversion kit is basically a large tube with a ring
welded to the top. You then fit a standard shock inside this tube. It is
not height adjustible per se, but Byrne can have the tube made to any
lowering height you want. Once the tube is cut, you are through adjusting
the rear height.
I couldn't find Byrne's contact info off hand, but if you need it I can find
it for you.

I have some things to say about my experience replacing my front springs.
</Voice=Mr Rogers>
Can you say, "Pain in the neck" boys & girls?
</Voice=normal>
For both the front & rear springs, it is very difficult finding a compressor
and position that works. Don't expect to successfully remove or replace any
spring on your first try (or second or third try). Each application is
unique, and finding a spring compressor that works in your situation is
difficult.

For the rear springs I used an external spring compressor from Pep Boys
which they rented for free. I had to buy it & then they refunded my money a
few days later later when I was finished. They do this as a favor since
they get you in there to buy parts from them. For the front springs, I used
the only internal spring compressor that NAPA sells. On the first spring, I
ended up ruining the compressor getting the spring off. The thread galled
and striped out. NAPA then cheerfully replaced the compressor, and I was a
lot more careful the second time. The compressor was too big to fit only
the spring, so I had to compress the spring to the lower control arm and
then remove the spring WITH the lower control arm. If you try the NAPA
compressor, be sure to grease up the threads or they will gall and strip.
You will need an impact wrench or you will sit there for hours winding up
those springs. Remember that you shouldn't expect to compress it enough (or
in the right shape) on your first try.

Before I got my second NAPA spring compressor, I asked Rob Grady what he
uses. His uses a plate left over from his Chevy dealer days, and he mixes
this with a different type of compressor. Before I use the NAPA compressor
again, I'm going to have a plate custom welded up to fit in there. FYI, to
make the NAPA compressor work, I had to use a 2" piece of EMT tubing so that
the bolt wouldn't be too long and so that I could reach a socket on the bolt
head. You would have to see it to believe it. I have pictures of it and of
the last SEDOC event which I intend to post a link to in a few days.

One advantage about buying your shocks from Marty is that he may loan you
his spring compressor for the fronts. He has something that he says works
pretty good. Hey Marty, do you care to tell us where you got your spring
compressor?

Also expect to have to re-align your front end AFTER the new springs settle.
And they will settle a lot. (This is also a good time to replace your
steering rack boots and re-oil it.) When I first got the new springs on, I
was pissed to see the results. They didn't appear to lower the front hardly
at all. I then went to Sears for a front end alignment. Immediately
afterwards I left for the SEDOC cruise-in. By the time I got out of Florida
(about 300 miles later) my headlights were making a bright spot on the road
about one car-length in front of me. I could also tell from the handling
that my alignment was off again. But I am very happy with the looks. The
nose of the car finally sits where it belongs instead of way up in the air
like a 4WD AMC.

Walt Tampa, FL