Door Lock Module

[dherv10@xxxx]

Group, FYI. I know the door lock module get's a bad rap, and I'm not 
trying to make a case for saving it, but let me tell you what I have 
found. On my web site you will see version #1 Iss1 #23-425 and 
version #3 Iss3 #23-409. These numbers are on the back of PC board. 

There was considerable design change as you can tell and I was 
wondering why some people have no problems with the door locks and 
others do. I took mine out today and I have ver #4 #23-409 ( car vin 
11004). Closely looking I found only one minor change on the PC board 
placement of a diode, so for all purpose #3 and #4 are the same. But, 
like I said I have no problems with my door locks. I also fuse it 
with a circuit breaker at 15 amps not 35 or 40, so if there is a 
problem with the solenoids or locking mechanism the breaker will trip 
and then it's time to look for the problem. If you add a 40 amp 
breaker, your adding to the problem of the breaker not being able to 
trip and thus burning up the module. I now have replacement diodes 
and relay's for inside the module which if they have never been 
replaced, more than likly the relay's are burnt and one of the diodes 
is chared or burnt. 

I have also seen some unsoldered components and 
some wire leads broke. My point is, if you want me to take a look at 
your module I will and I have the parts to fix them.I think the early 
ones may have been designed wrong and corrected later, so if you have 
ver 1, it may not be worth saving. But 3 and 4 with new relay's and a 
15 amp breaker may save some money. As far as them tripping on there 
on, I know that if the door mechanizm doesn't accuate, then how would 
they get power to turn on the locks. I think that problem is in the 
door. I will look into it later.
Just some food for thought.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/talk-view.shtml