Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
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Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...



If you do find a welder who has experience with stainless he should 
also be competant in the use of high frequency TIG. This is the only 
way to do this work without exessive heat build-up and distortion. 
This repair can be done. I had a shop where we built S/S elevater 
doors, frames, and cabs. Not only do you have to weld parts together 
but there are the inevitable repairs from shop mistakes, dings, and 
field screw-ups. I had a welder that could weld a 2x4 to a brick or at 
least he claimed! My point is that a GOOD welder can do minor miracles 
so try to find a shop that works on kitchen equipment or hollow metal 
in your area and has a Tig welder that doesn't look like Noah might 
have used it! You might try a local welding supply, they usually know 
which shops are doing good work. As for the X pattern get a piece of 
2x6 about 6" long, sand it smooth and flat and use it on the blending 
pad and don't use much pressure. On the rear sunshade I use Black 
Again and I am happy with the results as it doesn't dry off as fast as 
Armor-All. I think you are very persistant and patient to attempt this 
project and not get frustrated and stop.Keep going! and good luck!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Dave Stragand <dave.stragand@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
> On the 9th of June I finally got to do what I've been waiting for 
for months
> -- pick up my body panels!
> 
> Dave Bauerle was able to do a fantastic job on the RR quarter -- 
you'd never
> believe the bottom lip of the wheel wheel had been smashed as badly 
as it
> was. It looks like a brand new piece.
> 
> Unfortunately, the doors had some areas he was not able to repair. 
Both
> doors have large nicks on the top, right by the seal. If you look 
at the
> doors, you can see how difficult that area is to get to -- the area 
is boxed
> by the door frame, and it's too small of an area to get a spoon up 
into.
> 
> I was planning on scrapping the doors, but someone recommended 
having the
> gouges welded in with stainless, then ground down. Anyone ever 
attempted
> something like this before? A stainless welder is going to be 
stopping by
> my house next week to take a look and give his recommendations.
> 
> So, while I waited, I started to slowly sand the many deep scratches 
off of
> my hood. I'm starting to get the dreaded "X"... any tips here would 
be
> appreciated.
> 
> Other than that, I've been doing smallish jobs. Put in FanZilla, 
ordered a
> few pieces, prep the rear deck & engine cover for painting...
> 
> Speaking of which, since everyone uses semi-flat black and then 
Armor-All or
> the like to shine the louvers, I am thinking of trying a semi-gloss 
or gloss
> black SATIN finish paint. It should give the same effect without 
having to
> Armor-All it all the time. Anyone else ever tried this?
> 
> So... things have started moving again. I even have my insurance 
agent
> trying to get me listed. Of course, the underwriter is having a fit 
for all
> the usual reasons... but IU'm sure we'll squeak it by. Heck, if he 
was
> going to insure me for an '87 Lotus Esprit Turbo for $400 a year, 
then he
> should be able to do better with a D, right? =)
> 
> -Dave
> http://www.ProjectVixen.com <http://www.ProjectVixen.com> 
> VIN #05927
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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