Craig Radio Flex Cable Repair

[Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx>]

If you no longer plan to play tapes and just want your display working,
here are a few tips. First of all, as everyone cautions, you must be
able to solder well above average. The traces are close together and
you must get on and off quickly else the traces will lift up out of the
plastic and make you sorry you started the whole thing. The main
problem beyond that is that the traces are in such close proximity that
it's very easy to solder across two or three traces at the same time.
Here's what I suggest. Start from one side only, whichever is
comfortable for you, then just bare one trace at a time as you go along,
this leaves the traces in one direction still embedded in the tough
plastic and you can kind of "lean" that way as you solder. To bare a
trace, use a sharp razor blade, or equivalent (I use a carpet cutting
blade) and scrape only enough to make the joint, appox. 1/8th inch each
side. The heat of the iron is also important, I use a 30 watt with a
pointed tip (purchased at Radio shack for about $7). Too low doesn't
solder quickly enough and too high is too quick, there needs to be sort
of a rhythm.

In removing the display assembly, detach the return spring from the
case, not from the display, also, note the amount of tension, it's about
one turn, you should put the same amount of tension on the spring when
you refasten it. Not as important as if you were doing it with wires
and planning to play tapes, but why not do it right.

My prototype had all 16 traces separated, if you still have some intact,
it's very easy to check with an Ohmmeter to determine which need the
repair. There's a distinct crease where the breaks occur, no problem
finding that. I coated the finished repair with radio-TV service cement
but could be Duco or shellac or nothing at all, It's not going anywhere.

If this lacks clarity, let me know, it's hard to tell where someone's
skill level lies.

Les