Bad gas cap x-reference (was Fuel Leak?)

["Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>]

I found the problem (or at least a significant contributing factor). And
also DMC Joe and I owe y'all an apology. A few weeks ago I posted a note
saying that the Stant brand model # 11623 gas cap is an acceptable
replacement for the DeLorean locking gas cap. This is wrong. It looks
great and fits well, but it is the 'Anti-Surge Type Vented'. I understand
that the DeLorean fuel system requires a cap that is completely sealed. I
found a close second which is Stant brand # 11810 which is 'Emission Control
Type', but it is still vented in that it has a spring loaded pressure
release. It also isn't near as pretty as the # 11623. Otherwise it appears
that Stant does not make an acceptable cross-reference. Now don't y'all
give me a bunch of flack about that I should only buy my parts from the
DeLorean vendors. :-) I called Joe LoRe' asking to buy a non-locking cap
from him. He told me to just buy the #11623 from a local auto parts store.

I put my old OEM locking gas cap on for now, and my fuel odors have
diminished significantly. But the OEM cap does not seal well either. I'm
afraid that I'm going to twist off my ignition key in there. Even when I
use the key to lock it on, I can still get it off without the key. So the
locking part is just a nuisance. I've tried oiling the moving parts and
loosening things up, but it still doesn't work right.

I put the inside portion of my new gas cap # 11623 to the bench grinder and
neatly cut out the center and removed the vent parts. I filled the hole
with JB-Weld and heated it with a heat gun to remove the bubbles. So far it
has made a neat job and is setting up on my work bench. This will give me a
sealing non-vented gas cap like the OEM, but it is polished stainless steel
and matches the rest of the car better than any other cap I've seen.

Thanks to Dee Moats, Scott Mueller, & Robert for suggesting the gas cap. I
just didn't suspect it at all. I took the vapor line loose from the filler
neck and from the vapor canister and checked it thoroughly for leaks. There
were none. A curious observation I made is that the clamps on these lines
do not look OEM. They are the variety that have the cut-through slots for
the worm gear/screw. I don't see why the previous owner would tamper with
it unless the car had emissions problems. Florida emissions never checked
that sort of thing. Since the car originally came from Illinois, does
anyone know how picky they are with vapor recovery?

Thanks to Nick, David Teitelbaum and Steve Rubano for the suggestions on
fixing the metal fuel line. Mine isn't really kinked bad enough to cause
problems, but it is a project that I will get to eventually. When I do,
I'll be asking y'all.

Thanks to y'all I was able to confirm that I have the wrong type fuel line
on my accumulator, so I'll be getting that replaced hopefully before it
ruptures.

Walt Tampa, FL