[DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)

["Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>]

Understanding the physics of brakes is complex enough but to address 
proper braking with cost will absolutely get you into trouble. Also, 
for proper function, ALL the mechanicals have to be in good order.

The biggest mistake you can make in my opinion is to move away from 
the original braking specs. Original brakes worked very well with 
good balance. Ok, the black dust is a pain. But, moving away from 
the original FF pad factor will screw the balance up big time. Drop 
in some EE pads (think "harder" pad - the friction properties are 
higher) in front and leave the FF pads in the rear and you can lock 
up the rears first. Then, in the water, you will find yourself 
looking at the guy about to "rear-end" you.

Using EE pads all around will usually result in increased pedal 
pressure and modulation screwed up. FF pads are often the less 
expensive but that was OEM. OEM pads usually go in about 15,000 
miles if I remember correctly - or less. I use some metallic FF pads 
that get about 20,000 miles and dust a lot less than the OEM. 

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob@xxxx> 
wrote:
> 
> well, I don't know if it is an endorsement or not, but I got all 
of my 
> calipers and pads from Hervey.
> Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who owns a brake 
shop) told
> me that these were about the cheapest pads you could use, although 
Hervey 
> told me
> they were the "best available".
> I think that there needs to be an adjustment or some sort of an 
equalizer to 
> give the
> rear wheels a little bit more grip than the front for stopping.
> This would help prevent the front tires from locking up.
> If there is a way to make the rear 60 and the front 40 then that 
would make 
> a difference.
> 
> Also, no matter what I do I can't get the damned emergency brake 
to have any
> grip good enough to stop the car from rolling.
> I was given a failed inspection because they said the E-brake 
doesn't work.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> >From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: [DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In 
Year 'Round Use)
> >Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:18:39 -0000
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >The "best" way is to either try driving other Deloreans or have
> >someone else try yours and see if there is a difference. There are
> >always slight differences, for instance the pads you use matter. 
You
> >might have a stuck piston or maybe the brakes drag. There are 
pressure
> >testers you can buy and use to measure the force on the pads but 
they
> >are expensive and do not always give you enough information.
> >David Teitelbaum
> >vin 10757
> >
> >
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote:
> > >
> > > To be able to  lock up or not to lock up.  This brought up a
> >question in my
> > > mind that the brake system itself  in peoples cars might have
> >different holding
> > >& 6530
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators@xxxx
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








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