[DML] Re: Manual Shifting questions

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Go over the adjustments for the gearshift. A 1/2 turn can make a large
difference. You might have to dissasemble it a little to clean and
lubricate it properly. Check the pivot points for excessive wear and
replace any worn parts. You should keep an extra pivot bolt in the
glove box anyway. I assume you put the steel braided clutch line in,
if you haven't you may not be getting full disengagement of the
clutch, which would make shifting hard. It is also likely that you
will have to replace the roll pin inside the trans to get 5th. It may
be worn due to forcing the shifts. You should not have needed to pull
the steering wheel to get it straight. Make sure you have the same
amount of steering to the left as you do to the right. If you have
more on one side than the other you need to center the steering wheel
and probably do a toe adjustment to center the rack. If the frequncy
valve isn't affecting the motor you probably still have vacuum leaks
which would also be why the idle is high. Check the tube under the
mixture unit. Make sure the "O" ring is sealing it. Make sure there is
a plug in the hole over the mixture screw. Check that the throttle
spool is returning all the way to idle and clicking the idle micro.
Check the quadrant link from the throttle spool to the throtttle
plates for play.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Mike Polzin" <MPolzin@xxxx> wrote:
> I have a project car that I bought last year that I have been diligently
> working on restoring, and getting it back in the fleet of active cars. I
> have already replaced the steering rack - as a side note I highly
recomment
> the PJ Grady rack, very nice - and all of the clutch hydraulics -
slave and
> master cylinders. We ended up having to pull the steering wheel to 




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