[DML] Re: Disabling/Reactivating CIS

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

How long did it take you to reactivate CIS? Five minutes perhaps?
That's why I advocate at least knowing how to idle the engine manually
(for diagnostics if nothing else):
1) Is temporary, not permanent
2) CIS can be disabled or reactivated within minutes

CPR currently on your engine does allow it to run rich 50% longer than
a stock unit, but ultimately warms up to the same spec (including a
full throttle enrichment mechanism). Every Volvo ap CPR likely to be
encountered max's at 49-53 PSI counter pressure. Only difference is
cold pressure (Series 038 starts close to 0 versus 15 PSI for 066
Series), length of time to warm up (038 max's at 160 versus 105
degrees F), and presence/method of full throttle enrichment (Series
004 used on B27F has none). 

PRV's do not like liquid fuel at all. That's my jetting issue
(secondaries are not vaporized like primaries). Is also why I've
disconnected the accelerator pump. I suppose someone with leaking or
improperly spraying K Jetronic injectors suffers the same consequences.

Home made dual exhaust costs $150 using common mail order parts. No
kit is necessary.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie G <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm actually not running on manual idle right now. I've decided with
cooler weather around the corner I need to try and hunt down my idle
problems as the car is a bear to start and keep running when the
weather is cold with manual idle. You had the luxury of an auxilliary
air valve on your car which I don't have. I've really gotten my idle
improved though. Something which made the biggest difference was
bending the throttle arm so that it contacts the microswitch in the
dead center. It wasn't always tripping the microswitch before as it
was off center. I've also played around with that wonderful little
throttle link which is between the throttle arm and throttle spool.
I've messed with it until there isn't any play in the system any more
which could cause either the throttle plates to be slightly cracked,
or to not trip the microswitch. I unplugged my vacuum solonoid a while
back and the rpms dropped from 1500 down to 750. So I figured I must
have a faulty solonoid. The new solonoid helps with the idle (and with
acceleration!), but it hasn't completely cured my problem. The car
hunts ever so slightly (we're talking no more than 100 rpms) but it's
there. So coupled with the A/C knocking down the rpms I'm thinking
I've got a vacuum leak somewhere. But I also had a thought: I remember
the fuel curves for the 038 CPR were different than the 066. Is it
possible it's feeding the engine more gas when the car warms up, and
is causing the higher idle? It's literally like a switch flipping...
the car when cold will idle just beautifully at 750, but then jumps up
to about 1100.
> 
> Anyways, how's life on your end? Are the Lincolns occupying all your
time, or have you played any more with your DeLo? Once you get it
jetted right it should be an absolute hoot to drive. I've got people
asking me all the time about your exhaust BTW. You could make up a kit
yourself and go into business! :-) Well, I'm at work so I guess I
should go. We do need to get together sometime soon though, you really
need to meet Jeff from Concord. I think you two would really enjoy
each other. Plus I hardly ever see you anymore. Well, that's all for
now. -Louie
> 





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