[DML] Re: Vac. Solonoid & idle (Louie Golden)
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[DML] Re: Vac. Solonoid & idle (Louie Golden)



Last I saw your engine you were setting idle speed manually by
cracking the throttle plates. Unless you've reactivated CIS, you're in
control of idle speed. Is set high to accomodate the A/C compressor
load. When fall comes you can dial it back full time until next summer.

Are you still running that Series 038 CPR? If so, don't try to route
its vacuum enrichment like a Series 066 (factory). Should be connected
directly to full manifold vacuum at all times, with no delay valve or
thermal switch. 

In fact: if you're going to continue to use that CPR I'd recommend
jetisoning remaining vacuum hoses in lieu of vacuum advance taken from
the ported line from under the throttle plates. You'd only have two
engine vacuum lines then:
1) directly from the manifold to the CPR
2) directly from the ported nipple to the distributor
Thermal vacuum switch would be unused under the intake (plug its
former takeoff on the driver intake rail with a 3/16" vacuum cap).

I seem to remember your CPR Tee'd from the vacuum canister purge line.
The smaller line next to it is the ported purge signal. Simply insert
a 3/16" Tee in it and run a hose to the distributor. 

Note that you may need to switch to idling from the brass manifold
screws rather than cracking the throttle plates (cracking them is what
opens that ported nipple).

Mode switch will hiss as it routes vacuum internally between different
positions. You're only in trouble if it hisses while stationary in the
same position.

Contact me off List (brobertson(at)carolina.net) if you'd like to
arrange a vacuum hose tech session.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie G <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> I was just wondering if anyone could confirm to me that my vacuum
hose routing into my vacuum solonoid is correct. I have the line with
the u-shaped bend connected to the port closest to the electrical
connector.
> 
> Also, my mode switch hisses when I turn it while the car is not
running. That means I've got a vacuum leak there, right? The car is
idling at about 1000-1100 rpms when it gets warm. When the car is cold
it idles glassy smooth at 750rpms. I've replaced my microswitch,
vacuum solonoid, idle speed motor, and have adjusted my throttle arm
to ensure there's no play in it and I still idles high. Turning on the
A/C compressor kicks the idle down to where it should be. This seems
to tell me I've still got a vacuum leak somewhere. Should I try a mode
switch next? Looking through my receipts folder the car's past owner
replaced the mode switch multiple times. Are they just badly made
parts, or could there be a reason why my car is chewing through so many?
> 
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC




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