RE: [DML] RE: Unused wires in door harness

["Gary Hull" <Specialty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I've received several requests for more information about how I replaced my
door lock solenoids with actuators, freed up an extra wire in the door, and
why I needed extra relays. 

I purchased my car in '93, and the first thing to go bad was one of the door
lock solenoids. Rather than spend about $150 for a new solenoid, I replaced
both solenoids with actuators, made custom brackets, and controlled the
actuators with a couple of relays. When I realized that this would leave me
with an unused wire in the door, I bought a couple of HD Door Solenoids to
use for unlatching my doors.  I also installed an alarm system with remote
door lock and unlock capability (and auxiliary capability used for door
launching). 

The reason I needed the relays, was that the solenoids worked with a
constant ground wire, a wire for opening, and a wire for closing - but the
actuators use only two wires - so you actually have to reverse both the
positive and negative inputs to lock or unlock. 

I retained the pulse unit (normally a high failure rate item), but since the
pulse unit now only has to pull in the relays (instead of the old
high-current solenoids) it should last forever. My door lock actuator setup
has been 100% reliable for 11 years.

Darryl and I discussed my design, but he took his design to the next level
by using actuators to unlatch (launch) the doors. 

The only problem I have with my Solenoid-Operated unlatching (launching)
system is that the solenoids draw so much current, that when the battery
isn't fully charged the doors do not reliably unlatch. Since Darryl/Toby's
actuators draw less current than my solenoids they work more reliably - even
when the battery isn't fully charged.

Toby (DPNW) is packaging the Door Lock Actuator system with installation
instructions, etc. You will be able to purchase/install the new Door Lock
Actuator system, his existing Door Unlatching (launching) Actuator system,
or both.

Gary
IN2TIME






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