[DML] Re: Fan trouble

["therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxx>]

The temp gauge isn't 100% accurate, but is there to give you a good 
idea of what is going on with your cooling system. So it may be 
possible that that gague isn't properly calibrated, and you're not 
letting the car warm up enough to catch. So this is one possibility. 
You may wish to let the car heat up to 220°F, and shut the car off
if 
the needle begins to go past the 220 mark. Right around there is when 
my fans typicly turn on.


->Side note: water cut with antifreeze raises the boiling point of 
water, and the coolant being isolated in a sealed system that 
restricts it's expansion, will increase it's boiling point temp even 
further. So 220°F is a safe operating temp for a car. Take notice 
that to avoid this kind of customer concern, auto manufacturers no 
longer put numbers on their temp gagues, just designations 
between "Hot" and "Cold".

Looking at your VIN #, and somewhat from your description, it sounds 
as though you've got the later style pipe assembly, where the 
otterstat is insterted into a hole on the bottom of the pipe. So air 
bubbles collecting around the otterstat shouldn't be a problem here.

However, you did write that you have both bled the system manually, 
and that you now have a self bleeder installed. In either case, it 
still sounds to me as though you've still not bled the car entirely. 
Manually bleeding is a time consuming task. To do it properly, you've 
got to disconnect the hoses on the front, to bleed out the air in the 
front part of the system. Doing this entirely thru the bleeder screw 
on the back can take upwards of an hour. Plus, you're not just 
bleeding out air. As you bleed off air, you're also bleeding out 
coolant. And the problem with this is that when the level gets too 
low, cooling efficiency is dropped, and what little air is in the 
system will become scattered, and you'll end up with vaptor lock. 
When bleeding with this method, you can only take so much coolant out 
at a time, and then you must pause, and wait for the car to cool, and 
then refill the drained coolant back into the surge tank. Any time 
that you bleed off too much coolant and cause this senario, you've 
got to start over from the very begining!

Passive bleeding with the bleeder kit is much easier, but you really 
need to pressurize the system to evacuate everything. And you'd need 
to do this by driving the car. Heat the system up, drive it, and see 
how stable it becomes. Park, and let cool down, then crack open the 
surge tank to vent any excess air, and to top off the coolant, if 
nessisary. And while it may run warm at first, it should quickly run 
cooler as you heat & cool the system.

Don't bother draining your cooling system to start over 
from "scratch". It's not as though the water has "failed", and needs 
to be replaced. But, since you're already this involved in the 
cooling system, it really wouldn't hurt for you to perform a pressure 
test next time you've got it filled up.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Jim Hodgson <jhodgson11@xxxx> wrote:
> Dave,
> 
> The  guage will get as high as 220 if I let it. I would shut it 
down at that point for fear of overheating it.



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