[DML] Re: Rob Grady Stainless Studs -- Price Quote Please

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Aren't you glad the air filter housing bolts are common 6x1mm!

Please quote us a price for 7x1mm studs with nuts by the piece (I'd
like to convert my internal water pipe bolts too). You may also have a
market converting valve and timing cover bolts. Am afraid the angle of
intake manifold bolts has you clipped.

BTW: Are your studs fully threaded, or do they have a stop in the middle?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "PJ Grady" <rob@xxxx> wrote:
> After my post on stainless exhaust studs Martin G. sent me an e-mail
> explaining his negative view on combining stainless and aluminum. He
> suggested a test which involved soaking a head with our s/s stud
installed
> for a week in a salt water bath for a week to see if any galvanic action
> occurred. I did this test for two weeks in heavily salted water and then
> removed the head to dry. There was no trace of rust or galvanic
action on
> the stud and I unthreaded it by hand after the initial turn to
loosen it.
> The head however showed a heavy salt buildup suggesting a salinity level
> approaching the Great Salt Lake! I did put a dab of high temp
Anti-seize on
> the installed thread, as we've been doing for twenty odd years on the
> original studs when replacing them, and am very confident that this
reduces
> the chance of galvanic action to a minimum. After about 250 exhaust
manifold
> jobs I'm looking forward to NOT having to replace the studs every
time an
> exhaust gasket wears out. BTW we've been changing air cleaner
mounting bolts
> to stainless for over twenty years and have never had one seize (WITHOUT
> using Anti-seize}. This is what led me to believe that, in the real
world,
> stainless studs (hardened of course) are the way to go in solving
the rusted
> stud syndrome. I firmly believe that mild steel has a much higher
degree of
> galvanic action than stainless. Our exhaust kits now feature
stainless studs
> for those of you interested. I have a number of new products that
haven't
> made it onto our website yet such as these studs. Unfortunately I'm
better
> at envisioning and making new products than marketing them.
Now....let the
> nay Sayers begin!
> 
> Robert Grady  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tobyp@xxxx [mailto:tobyp@xxxx] 
> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 5:29 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] Custom Made Gas-Flap door
> 
> Ed - When you put aluminum and stainless steel (or mild steel for 
> that matter) together in close proximity, and add moisture, you get a 
> wonderful battery.  The aluminum starts to dissipate, leaving a white 
> powdery corrosion product called aluminum oxide.  All European cars 
> with aluminum skins attached to steel frames require a isolator ply 
> between the two materials to prevent the body skins from 
> disappearing.  In the aerospace industry, when we put aluminum and 
> stainless steel together (which happens a lot) we apply two coats of 
> a chromium-rich epoxy primer to each material, so we have four coats 
> of paint for protection.  We also fay seal the pieces together with a 
> high-performance sealant so that no moisture can get between the 
> layers of dissimilar materials, and install all fasteners with 
> sealant as well.  In short, without extensive protection, putting 
> them together is a bad idea.
> 
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> > Can anyone give me a definitive answer with respect to dissimilar 
> metal galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminum?
> > 
> > Is it a problem or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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