[DML] Re: Replacing heat sheild.
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[DML] Re: Replacing heat sheild.



Wouldn't it be far easier to simply drop the converter? When I gutted
mine it came right out (muffler is stainless, so the two are not
rusted together). Guillotine clamp probably won't survive, but that's
a simple $2 part at any parts house. Reach the converter-Y pipe studs
from the front side of the driver engine cradle.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, tobyp@xxxx wrote:
> Steve - It's okay to jack up the engine after unbolting the motor 
> mounts, without disconnecting anything else ... if you just raise 
> the engine up the minimum amount to get the heat shield replaced.  
> You will put stresses on several different tubes and pipes, but they 
> should be okay with it.  The oil pan is fairly sturdy, but I would 
> personally use the flange where the pan bolts up the the block just 
> under the crank shaft pulley.  If you do use the pan itself, spread 
> the load out with a 2 X 4 across its width.  It is a cast aluminum 
> piece, so its rather brittle.  Watch out that you don't bind the 
> exhaust tips on the rear fascia.  You only have an inch or so of 
> clearance there.  You may have to loosen the muffler clamps and 
> other attachments to let the muffler rotate down a bit.  Have fun!
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC  
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger@xxxx> 
> wrote:
> > I have to replace the heat shield that goes around the catalytic 
> converter. I need a little room between 
> > the cat and the frame to do this. I was hoping someone could save 
> me some time by confirming 
> > that I can raise the engine a few inches after loosening the 
> engine mounting bolts only and not having 
> > to disconnect anything else. Also, is it safe to jack up the 
> engine under the oil pan.
> > 
> > Thanks
> > Steve




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