[DML] Re: won't start (Testing David T's theory)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

To test David's theory: pop out an injector and place in a jar, PLUG
THE VACANT INJECTOR PORT (you'll have a catastophic vacuum leak
otherwise), then watch the injector as the engine tries to start. If
it doesn't spray from air sensor plate movement alone, your CO2 screw
is definitely set too lean (assuming CIS is working properly -- see
last paragraph).

I did the same thing to poor Louie G not long ago: we had temporarily
capped off the lower chambers in #5252's fuel distributor. When Lambda
was reactived, the CO2 screw was *3* revolutions too lean. I got his
engine to start by manually lowering the air sensor plate without
touching the throttle plates, enriching his idle mixture (#5252 is
currently running a manual idle -- don't think this would have worked
with CIS). His CO2 screw was adjusted in 1/4 revolution increments
until the engine finally started without additional manual plate action.

Note that a stuck closed idle speed motor will also prevent the engine
from starting. This happened to me as my own CIS was dying. Watch the
air sensor plate as the engine tries to start. If it doesn't move down
from engine vacuum alone, you've either got a stuck closed idle speed
motor or a major vacuum leak is allowing the engine to suck air
someplace else. Air sensor plate movement is of course needed to meter
fuel to the injectors.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> Just being able to replace parts is not going to get you runing. You
> really have to be able to diagnose a problem and change just the bad
> part. Now that you are where you are I would try turning the mixture
> screw. It is probably way off. We saw this on a car in Virginia. He
> repalced the mixture unit and it took a turn or 2 to get the
> adjustment close. It seems the mixture units do not come preadjusted
> for Deloreans. You have to remove the tamper-proof plug (if it is
> there) and use a metric allen wrench. Don't forget to plug the hole or
> you will have a large vacuum leak. The procedure is in the Workshop
> Manual D:04:01.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, advantics@xxxx wrote:
> > The car ran when I got it, then one day it just didn't start. I was
> getting 
> > plenty of spark but no fuel when I pulled an injector. When I pulled
> the fuel 
> > line going to the fuel distributor, I had fuel going to it but the
> fuel getting 
> > in the engine was next to nothing. It would sputter and try to start
> but it 
> > would just tease me. I had thought the fuel distributor and
> injectors were 
> > clogged, and so I bought new injectors and took the fuel distributor
> and cold 
> > start valve off my other D. Still the same problem, only difference
> is it will try 
> > to start and sometimes run for 10 or 20 seconds but dies out as soon
> as I 
> > take my foot off the gas. The few seconds that it does run it smokes
> a lot.
> >   I know I got the lines all back correctly and it helps that I have
> another 
> > D to look at, and even swap parts with to see if something bad. It
> runs great, 
> > and I have since tried some of the "bad" parts on it, only to find
> that they 
> > work fine. I don't know these cars at all, but am trying to learn. I




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