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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Transmissions (was upgrade paths)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: idle problem solved and thanks
From: "Tom" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: DeLorean insurance
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Tire Rotation
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. Failed emissions!!!
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: transmission upgrades
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: idle problem solved and thanks
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Another 915 Tranny update
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Failed emissions!!!
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Automatic Tranny
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Failed emissions!!!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 21:46:42 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmissions (was upgrade paths)
I don't know if it's an automotive thing or what, but yes, Higher
Gear Ratios have Lower (smaller) Numbers. My assumption is that it
has something do to with tranmission nomenclature - i.e. Low Gear is
a bigger gear ratio (number) than high gear. Although Low Gear is
also called First Gear and High Gear is called Fifth gear at least in
our case). . Now I'm confused!
In most magazine articles you read about such things, authors usually
make clever statements like "you should put in a lower (higher
numerical) ratio differential gear for quicker off-the line
acceleration".
Now that that is explained, do you really have a source for a lower
(higher numerical) ratio ring and pinion set that will fit this
transmission, in the reversed mode used in the DMC? (And yes, I
understand that the pinion gear is the entire countershaft too!).
Dave S.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
wrote:
> Um - if this is the case, then the term "high ratio" and "low
ratio" are
> different in automotive terms than mathematics, which I did rather
a lot
> of whilst doing my degree in electronics. To me a 2:1 ratio is
lower
> than a 3:1 ratio. But maybe the confusion arises whether it's 2:1
or 1:2 ???
>
> Martin
> >
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 17:51:24 -0400
From: "Tom" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: idle problem solved and thanks
I'm not sure exactly what you mean when you say "idle regulator". If it's
the Idle ECU you are talking about then I can fix it for you.
If anyone is interested I can rebuild the Idle ECU. Email me directly if
interested at tomcio'AT'gtemail.net
Oh, and it will cost you a lot less than getting a new one.
Take care
Tom Niemczewski
tomcio'AT'gtemail.net
vin 6149 (saved)
Save the dream, so you can live the dream!
----- Original Message -----
> The "underlying problem" can often just be age, and there's nothing
> you can do about that.
<SNIP>
> In hindsight, it could be that his idle regulator is indeed getting
> sluggish. I've only been here a year and I've heard of 2 guys who's
> idle regs had failed. 3 if you include me!
>
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 15:44:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean insurance
With USAA, for my Nissan 94 XE pickup AND my 81 DeLorean I'm paying $133/month. I am 22 yrs old and a male driver with a clean record to give you an idea of how the insurance can be. DeLoreans have one of the best safety records ever, and they're not "muscle" or "sports" cars. They have very very low insurance rates if you know who to ask.
deloreanforbart <deloreanforbart@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:how is an insurance for delorean ?
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 19:30:51 -0400
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tire Rotation
In a message dated 10/20/2003 11:02:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> On most
> cars I do a front to back switch and that makes a difference,
> spreading the wear out. The front tires seem to wear faster on the
> edges due to cornering/turning so getting them on the back makes the
> entire set wear more evenly. Since this is impossible on
> the Delorean
> I guess the fronts will wear out sooner than the back tires.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
List,
where i work (general manager of a Jiffy Lube), we only rotate front to back, not left to right. some customers seem to think that is the way to do it, but if you look in the owner's manuals, you will see that front to back is actually preferred while LF to RR and RF to LR is sometimes ok too.
my car's tires are always properly aired but it seems like my rears are wearing MUCH faster (AVS's). in fact, i bet next fall i will need new tires again (they have about 10K miles on them right now. the fronts look like pretty much brand new but the rears are worn, especially in the middle where you would expect an overinflated tire to wear hard. i usually have my rear tires set at the rec. pressure (don't recall exactly what that is right now) either normal or highway driving. i have no idea why they are wearing like this. my car is lowered but i don't see it being a camber problem.
as far as i am concerned, rotating the tires is not something to do on this car. just make sure you check the balance every 10K or so miles.
Andy
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 23:33:58 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Failed emissions!!!
My car failed emissions for THC and CO. It passed for NOx.
My mixture screw was tampered with a few months ago (wish I NEVER did
that) so I am pretty sure this is the biggest factor here.
What gets me is that I leaned out the mixture a bit (tampered with
mixture screw again) had it retested, and the results for THC and CO
were WORSE.
The results for NOx and CO2 improved however, but these were already
passing.
Any and all input is appreciated!
Adam Price
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 16:40:34 -0700
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: transmission upgrades
Andrew said "It's my understanding that the only real problem with the transmission and
higher powered engines is the input shafts. I believe Darryl Tinnerstet
got some inconel shafts machined to go with his supercharged Chevy
Delorean and has been pretty pleased with the results. (Correct me if I'm
misremembering here, Darryl.)"
Okay, close but not quite. The problem is the internally splined coupler that connects the 5-speed input shaft to the transmission mainshaft. It is very soft material, and not splined all the way around. It is so weak it may have been intended as a "fuse" to fail before doing more $eriou$ damage. I found that its failure point (with about 300 HP and gobs of torque) is accelerating briskly up an on-ramp in third on a Sunday night 100 miles from home.
I had an aerospace machine shop make a new coupler that was fully splined and then heat treated to bulletproof. It was not Inconel, only the Toby TABs were made from that. I doubt the shop would make any more as they don't like small one-off jobs, and finding anyone who could match the splines was quite a challenge.
Just wanted to clarify that discussion.
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 00:05:25 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: idle problem solved and thanks
The idle speed regulator is what the idle ECU controls. It is the
black or brass colored cylinder mounted on the driver's side/rear of
the engine. Easily identified by the ECU plug and the metal tube that
goes from it, into the air/fuel mixture control unit.
The ECU is the module behind the driver's seat. (Just in case we
ain't talking about the same thing)
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom" <tomcio@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm not sure exactly what you mean when you say "idle regulator".
If it's
> the Idle ECU you are talking about then I can fix it for you.
> If anyone is interested I can rebuild the Idle ECU. Email me
directly if
> interested at tomcio'AT'gtemail.net
> Oh, and it will cost you a lot less than getting a new one.
>
> Take care
> Tom Niemczewski
> tomcio'AT'gtemail.net
> vin 6149 (saved)
> Save the dream, so you can live the dream!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > The "underlying problem" can often just be age, and there's
nothing
> > you can do about that.
> <SNIP>
> > In hindsight, it could be that his idle regulator is indeed
getting
> > sluggish. I've only been here a year and I've heard of 2 guys
who's
> > idle regs had failed. 3 if you include me!
> >
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 20:43:44 -0500
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Another 915 Tranny update
Welp, today I recieved the bellhousing to mate the Porsche 915 tranny to the
Chevy engine. I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them. I got the kit
from Kennedy Engineering and they are VERY high quality pieces. (includes
bellhousing, flywheel, pilot bearing, dust shield and all the bolts needed
for $480 shipped) I also checked them for a test fit and it was like a
glove. Now I'm waiting on the linkage and starter to get here and I'll be
ready to install. Hopefully it'll all arrive this week and I can do the
install this weekend. I'm also taking notes and forming a webpage together
to detail the install just like I did with the Chevy engine.
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 21:05:49 -0400
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Failed emissions!!!
In a message dated 10/21/2003 7:33:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> My car failed emissions for THC and CO. It passed for NOx.
>
> My mixture screw was tampered with a few months ago (wish I NEVER did
> that) so I am pretty sure this is the biggest factor here.
>
> What gets me is that I leaned out the mixture a bit (tampered with
> mixture screw again) had it retested, and the results for THC and CO
> were WORSE.
>
> The results for NOx and CO2 improved however, but these
> were already
> passing.
>
>
> Any and all input is appreciated!
>
> Adam Price
Now that i finally understand the dwell meter use, let me try to help you.
First make sure you have replaced all the disposable ignition parts within a reasonable amount of time (less than 5 years at least) and that the fuel system is up to par as well as the idle system working correctly and you really are at zero vacuum advance at idle AND the idle motor and frequency valve are working correctly. if this, as well as all vacuum leaks and timing are fixed, you can try resetting the CO.
behind the fuel distributer and down by the diagnostics plug you should find a two-wire harness that can be disconnected. One wire should be purple, one orange. you will need an analog dwell meter ($40 at autozone) and hook up the test lead to the orange wire in some way (either by cutting and stripping the wire or hooking it up to the harness if you have the right pieces) and put the battery lead on the side firewall terminal.
When you start the car, let it warm up to full operating temperature (upper coolant hose by A/C is hot). get a long 3mm allen wrench to turn the CO screw. turn the throttle and run it at about 2000 rpm for a few seconds, then let it go back down. check for idle speed operation and timing. adjust timing as necessary. rev it up again and when you let it back down, observe where the needle is on the meter. my dwell has a 6 cyl scale and after conversion, i find that the needle should be exactly straight up and down, hovering/cycling between 28 and 32. if you are higher than this, turn the screw clockwise to richen it up, opposite to make it lean. turn it only a little and replace the rubber plug on the screw hole. rev it up for a few seconds, then observe where the needle is after about 10 seconds of idle so the ECU can do its thing. repeat this until the needle is averaging right over the 30 mark. as you get closer and closer, turn the screw just a hair each time until you are satisfied with the engine sound and needle swing. it will never sound smooth as butter due to engine design, but you know you got it right if you can rev it up and let it back down and you don't hear any booming in the exhaust.
you may find it helpful to get it really close the first time, then drive the car a few days and try it again. the plugs and such will get sooted at idle and things seem to be more accurate when the car isn't stuck in the garage running for hours on end!!!!
good luck - it took me 3 years and i'm only now getting my idle straightened out the way it should be. but it's worth it to know everything is working AOK.
Andy
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 01:46:45 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Automatic Tranny
The abrupt downshift is caused by the electric downshift switch at
the throttle spool (a microswitch). It is mounted on top of the fuel
enrichment switch. See G:05:03 of the workshop manual; I believe it
is best to just disconnect the switch (part of the gang-plug at the
top of the manifold above the brass idle adjustment screws) and let
the throttle travel on the governor control downshift. I find I can
now use full throttle at the better torque range too with no over
revving of the engine.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote:
> I've noticed that sometimes when I am driving at 30 - 40 mph and
hit the gas,
> instead of downshifting to second, the tranny seems to shift into
first (or
> perhaps neutral?) causing the engine to rev toward 5 grand. When
I let up on
> the accelerator the engine slows down and the tranny is back into
3rd. Has
> this happened to anyone else. Does anyone know why or how to fix
this?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave & 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 02:24:04 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Failed emissions!!!
I'm guessing you are not leaning the mixture like you believe. Look
at the workshop manual D:04:01. Clockwise increases CO, anti-
clockwise reduces CO. You should really check the CO by going
through the full process. Also, the idle screw positions can affect
the readings. Is the test you are going through at idle or under
load.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> My car failed emissions for THC and CO. It passed for NOx.
>
> My mixture screw was tampered with a few months ago (wish I NEVER
did
> that) so I am pretty sure this is the biggest factor here.
>
> What gets me is that I leaned out the mixture a bit (tampered with
> mixture screw again) had it retested, and the results for THC and
CO
> were WORSE.
>
> The results for NOx and CO2 improved however, but these were
already
> passing.
>
>
> Any and all input is appreciated!
>
> Adam Price
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