[DML] Digest Number 1644

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There are 2 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Monster Garage re-run (with Deloreans)
           From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: fuel pump - which components to replace?
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 02:59:22 -0000
   From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Monster Garage re-run (with Deloreans)

Dave and List,

I double checked the episode schedule and the weekend re-run is on
Sunday at 2pm (1pm Central) according to Discovery Channel website.

And yes, we know, the Delorean was not the hit car of the 1970's,
but those facts got mixed up just like the 1979 Bronco (not a '73).

Later,
Rich W.   

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Reminder - if you missed it the first time, next run of the Backyard 
> Monster/Monster Garage episode with DeLoreans in it (not as the 
> project!) is tomorrow Friday Night 8/29. Air time is 8 and 11 (7 and 
> 10 central). Also on Saturday at 3 pm (2 central). Discovery 
Channel. 
> 
> Dave S




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Message: 2
   Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 05:17:41 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pump - which components to replace?

Actually you may find pump boot support bracket rusted and not worth
saving either.

IMHO everything in fuel tank is DeLo Achilles Heel (one of a couple).
Extremely harsh environment for old components. Would spend money
there before interior, sound system, etc. Drove my "new" car 1,000
plus miles before tank problems reared their ugly heads, but when they
did they did with a vengeance.

Have now replaced everything from baffle to fuel distributor. Really
wasn't that expensive: $400. Definitely money well spent. Of course
had no choice, but even if system was still working would do so anyway
(lesson learned). One of the reasons I do not worry about driving my
car to DC in middle of the night is confidence of new fuel delivery
components.

While we're on topic, check out John Hervey's baffle. Simple,
functional, and trouble free. Because it sucks from bottom of tank,
eliminates vapor issues. Pickup screens disintegrated in my factory
baffle so I had no choice but to replace with something. Decided to go
with his. 

Make sure windshield plenum isn't draining right onto your pump. From
factory had a drain hose similar to A/C evaporator box. Mine was
missing. Rather than replace, engineered a splash guard. Should be
less likely to clog.

Fuel pumps do wear out. Is primary source of pressure (have decided
against John Hervey's small diameter pipe explanation because is metal
BEFORE accumulator too, and on return line. Now think only purpose of
pipes is to get in and out of frame, Bernoulli (sp?) principle
notwithstanding). Is in your own interest to have best possible.

Re: leaking fuel after fill up -- when gas pump shuts off, don't try
to "top off". Tank is already full to top. Any more will just sit in
filler and vapor hoses, which may not hold it. Don't recommend
wrenching down their hose clamps -- nipples are old plastic. Same
caution applies as radiator nipples.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "gullwings2000" <gullwings2000@xxxx>
wrote:
> After noticing a major gas leak after fill-up the other day I had the 
> car towed to a service station. Upon inspection it turns out the fuel 
> pump ring (the big rubber boot/seal) was seriously deteriorated as 
> well as the feed/return hoses. (Not surprsied - the car has sat 
> unused for long periods and I've suspected fuel system problems.)
> 
> The mechanic said if I got the parts he'd do the work, so now I'm 
> just debating over which parts to replace. I'd rather not do more 
> than necessary but I also don't want to be penny-wise/pound-foolish.
> 
> For all I know the fuel pump is fully functional but I'm leaning 
> towards replacing it anyway. I'm wondering how far down the "chain" 
> to go though, ie. the fuel tubes, elbow, tee, etc. I can understand 
> the rubber components being deteriorated, but shouldn't the metal 
> components still be usable? Any other things I should have 
> checked/replaced while the mechanic is at it?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tom (VIN 01710)




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