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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Delorean Wanted
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
2. St. Augustine, FL owners
From: JVC220@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
4. Misfire problems - please help :-(
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Paint for louver
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Misfire problems - please help :-(
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Temperature Guage help
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Misfire problems - please help :-(
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Misfire problems - please help :-(
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Ebay 1987 DeLorean
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Mid Atlantic Spring Social
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
13. Warrenty pamplets value and authenticity
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Paint for louver
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. DeLorean For Sale
From: "media1524" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
16. RE: Warrenty pamplets value and authenticity
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Delorean Hood Emblem
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
18. yet another performance question
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re: Paint for louver
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
20. Speedometer
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Re: Paint for louver
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
22. Any ideas re: new wheels?
From: "thestupidaso" <samcard@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 04:12:45 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Wanted
I'm looking to buy a Delorean in ANY condition(if the price is right
for the condition). Let me know.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 02:09:55 EDT
From: JVC220@xxxxxxx
Subject: St. Augustine, FL owners
Hi everybody. On Saturday I drove from Gainesville to St. Augustine Beach.
While I was driving down the street in my D, I saw another Delorean going the
opposite way. Does anybody know this person? Thanks for the help.
Adam
5030
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 11:08:35 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
On Sun, 20 Apr 2003 20:58:42 EDT, Dave wrote:
> How should I go about installing the front bearings into the hub?
> Should I have a machine shop press them in or is this something I could do?
I've had to replace more than 1 front bearing unfortunately...
The easies way was shown to me by a local mechanic (Thanks Ed!).
Put the bearing into the freezer for a couple of hours,
disassemble the hub and rotor (very straight forward removal
of bolts and stuff) remove the worn/damaged bearing.
On mine I could tap it out using an old socket.
Make sure you tap it out STRAIGHT, the fit is VERY tight...
To get the bearing in we heated the bare hub on an old electric cooker
for about 5 minutes, the the cold bearing would just fall in!
Let everything cool (mind your fingers!) and re-assemble everything
carefully. Make sure you torque everything to specs accoriding the manual.
When putting the bearing over the spindle, make sure the bearing gets
enough "pinch". I had one worn inner seal (the top-hat-like thingie)
that cause my bearing to be too loose; the applied torque was on the
end of the spindle, not the bearing! Caused the bearing to fail within
200 miles the first time! We put in a spacer to compensate and it's
been OK for the last year or so, so I'm happy...
Good luck,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:05:11 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Misfire problems - please help :-(
List :-
I have been having misfire problems for months and I am slowly
eliminating every possible cause.
BACKGROUND & SYMPTOMS:
This all happened when on the way home from work a water pipe burst,
the engine did not get excessively hot as it happened just as I got
to my drive, the temp gauge was low and I saw the steam straight away.
I took of the water pump and replaced the pipe and I have had this
problem ever since.
When 1st started the engine runs rough and will stall as soon as you
touch the accelerator until the car is suitably warm, generally idles
rough and pops and farts during general driving.
THINGS THAT HAVE BEEN CHECKED:
1) Injectors - all seem to have a good spray pattern and spray the
same quantity of fuel, I did change 2 that I was not 100% happy with.
2) Cap and rotor are in good condition, sparkplugs are new and gapped
correctly, coil is new, HT leads are new and get power to the plugs.
3) I checked the emissions with my gas analyser and they seemed to be
fine - (within the legal limit perhaps slightly rich)
4) Vacuum leads are new (in the engine bay) and I get a good vacuum
reading from the intake manifold when the car is running.
This is driving me nuts, the car doesn't drive terribly well as it
pops and farts as well as having a general lack of power, and it
idles like a dog.
I have got lots of shows coming up and need to get her up and running
again.
Any advice welcome (could timing have anything to do with it?)
Regards
James RG
UK
VIN 5462
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 12:43:11 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Paint for louver
I used Plasti-kote Bumper Black spray paint - their product code No.
616. I have been very pleased with the results. It has been a long
time since I painted them, say 7 years ago, I am not sure if they
still make the stuff.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hi,
> I am going to paint my rear louver on Wednesday. I tried
Bondo "bumper
> black" a while ago and it looked good for about 1 summer, then it
started to
> fade really fast & looked like hell. I am considering painting it
with some
> type of textured bedliner. Has anyone else tried this? What
brand do you
> recommend. I know some bedliner sprays are too dull in color and
wouldn't
> look good.
>
> Thank You
>
> Dave
> #6286
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 12:51:39 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Misfire problems - please help :-(
If you took the water pump off I assume you removed the intake and
maybe the spark plug wires?? because it sounds like you have a
crossed spark wire. Remember this engine has a different firing
order than most 6 cylinders.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxx> wrote:
> List :-
>
> I have been having misfire problems for months and I am slowly
> eliminating every possible cause.
>
> BACKGROUND & SYMPTOMS:
>
> This all happened when on the way home from work a water pipe
burst,
> the engine did not get excessively hot as it happened just as I
got
> to my drive, the temp gauge was low and I saw the steam straight
away.
>
> I took of the water pump and replaced the pipe and I have had this
> problem ever since.
>
> When 1st started the engine runs rough and will stall as soon as
you
> touch the accelerator until the car is suitably warm, generally
idles
> rough and pops and farts during general driving.
>
> THINGS THAT HAVE BEEN CHECKED:
>
> 1) Injectors - all seem to have a good spray pattern and spray the
> same quantity of fuel, I did change 2 that I was not 100% happy
with.
>
> 2) Cap and rotor are in good condition, sparkplugs are new and
gapped
> correctly, coil is new, HT leads are new and get power to the
plugs.
>
> 3) I checked the emissions with my gas analyser and they seemed to
be
> fine - (within the legal limit perhaps slightly rich)
>
> 4) Vacuum leads are new (in the engine bay) and I get a good
vacuum
> reading from the intake manifold when the car is running.
>
> This is driving me nuts, the car doesn't drive terribly well as it
> pops and farts as well as having a general lack of power, and it
> idles like a dog.
>
> I have got lots of shows coming up and need to get her up and
running
> again.
> Any advice welcome (could timing have anything to do with it?)
>
> Regards
>
>
> James RG
> UK
> VIN 5462
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 13:53:52 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Temperature Guage help
I ended up searching the archives.. it tooks me forever to find the
right words to use to get some resaults. "gauge sender" did it for me
finally. Some one suggested using a wire (i used a paperclip. John
Hervey always tells me "You can't have a DeLorean without a
paperclip") to poke the needle through the hole that the tripometer
reset lever goes through the clear plastic of the console. BE
CAREFUL... i ended up scratching the guages in the area just a bit...
not noticable unless you shine a light on it... but none-the-less.
Once I turned the needle around a bit... then switched the car back
on... it sprang back into the right position and read temperature
again.
James L 004009
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 14:08:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Misfire problems - please help :-(
Make sure the Lambda is running, the frequency valve on the right
valve cover should be buzzing. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks,
check the hole over the mixture screw for a plug, check the vacuum
hoses to the control pressure regulator and the seals and hoses to and
from the idle motor. Of course this assumes when you did the water
pump you did all fo the hoses correctly. Check the hoses and
electrical connector on the ignition advance. You may have to do a
compression check, you may have overheated the motor more than you
think, you might have popped a head gasket. When the car overheats,
the temperature gauge can't sense the coolant so the motor gets hotter
than the gauge would indicate.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxx> wrote:
> List :-
>
> I have been having misfire problems for months and I am slowly
> eliminating every possible cause.
>
> BACKGROUND & SYMPTOMS:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 14:19:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Misfire problems - please help :-(
Check your oil. If there's a milky white substance on the dipstick,
heads may have warped. Can also sometimes see steam from tailpipe.
Do you have any unexplained coolant loss (now that system is tight)?
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxx> wrote:
> List :-
>
> I have been having misfire problems for months and I am slowly
> eliminating every possible cause.
>
> BACKGROUND & SYMPTOMS:
>
> This all happened when on the way home from work a water pipe burst,
> the engine did not get excessively hot as it happened just as I got
> to my drive, the temp gauge was low and I saw the steam straight away.
>
> I took of the water pump and replaced the pipe and I have had this
> problem ever since.
>
> When 1st started the engine runs rough and will stall as soon as you
> touch the accelerator until the car is suitably warm, generally idles
> rough and pops and farts during general driving.
>
> THINGS THAT HAVE BEEN CHECKED:
>
> 1) Injectors - all seem to have a good spray pattern and spray the
> same quantity of fuel, I did change 2 that I was not 100% happy with.
>
> 2) Cap and rotor are in good condition, sparkplugs are new and gapped
> correctly, coil is new, HT leads are new and get power to the plugs.
>
> 3) I checked the emissions with my gas analyser and they seemed to be
> fine - (within the legal limit perhaps slightly rich)
>
> 4) Vacuum leads are new (in the engine bay) and I get a good vacuum
> reading from the intake manifold when the car is running.
>
> This is driving me nuts, the car doesn't drive terribly well as it
> pops and farts as well as having a general lack of power, and it
> idles like a dog.
>
> I have got lots of shows coming up and need to get her up and running
> again.
> Any advice welcome (could timing have anything to do with it?)
>
> Regards
>
>
> James RG
> UK
> VIN 5462
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 09:45:03 -0400
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ebay 1987 DeLorean
I wrote this person as well and have not received a note
back........Something tells me this person is full of "you know what".
I asked if he even owned the car. Anyone who has one should know the
basics. Either this person is just plain ignorant and has the car or
he's another scam artist trying to get money out of the unsuspecting. I
think that if he doesn't respond to any of our inquies we should notify
ebay.
Tom
#05732
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:46:22 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Mid Atlantic Spring Social
I am planning to go to the Mid Atlantic Spring Social. If any others are
going from Long Island please contact me off list.
doctorDHD AT aol.com
Dave
6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 12:37:47 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
Take them to a NAPA store with a machine shop. Their machinists are
certified and NAPA has the replacement bearing. Have them mount the
rotors for you too. BTW, if the rotors have not been cut before,
NAPA may be able to refinish them . I did mine a few years ago and
they are great. Don't forget the loctite for the rotor mounting
bolts.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hi List,
> Today I finally decided to replace my warped rotors since
prom is
> friday. Both hubs came off fairly easily but the bearings pretty
much fell
> apart when I pressed the hub off the shaft. I wanted to replace
the front
> bearings anyway as one was making a little noise.
> I have never installed rotors or bearings before but it
doesnt seem
> too hard. How should I go about installing the front bearings
into the hub?
> Should I have a machine shop press them in or is this something I
could do?
> any info on the assembly of the front hub/rotor would be
appreciated.
>
> Thank You
>
>
> Dave,
> #6286
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 15:13:30 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Warrenty pamplets value and authenticity
I have a craig stereo warranty leaflet... and one for the Goodyears
tires. I know the craig warranty is for the stock radio... and I'm
pretty sure the tire warranty is too.
What does the goodyear warrenty read or look like, just so I can
verify that it is the original before I sell it.
Secondly... are these items worth anything at all? A token payment
for my trouble of mailing them or maybe they are ultra-rare and worth
more than the car itself?? :P
any advice would be appreciated by both me and the poor guy who's
been wanting me to send them to him already! :P
Thank you!
James L 004009
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 16:20:50 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Paint for louver
Dave,
For louvers, I have used Krylon Semi-Flat Black with good results.
Most recently, I painted the louvers on D Rex about 15 months ago
with Krylon Semi-Flat Black and it still looks good. Note: D Rex
is outside on display at GodMudders most of the time (uncovered).
Most of the underbody and frame of the D Rex has DupliColor brand
textured truck bedliner coating on it, and although it does look
good in these areas, I do not think it would "wear" as well on a
set of louvers. It will peel if the surface is not REALLY clean
of all oil, grease or the "look good" coatings such as Armour All.
Coating may chip if louvers make contact with the roof T-panel.
I would stick with the Krylon or have a paint shop re-spray the
louvers with a Semi-Flat Black paint made for use with fiberglass.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hi,
> I am going to paint my rear louver on Wednesday. I tried
Bondo "bumper
> black" a while ago and it looked good for about 1 summer, then it
started to
> fade really fast & looked like hell. I am considering painting it
with some
> type of textured bedliner. Has anyone else tried this? What brand
do you
> recommend. I know some bedliner sprays are too dull in color and
wouldn't
> look good.
>
> Thank You
>
> Dave
> #6286
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 16:55:50 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean For Sale
Hello List Members,
I was at a car show on Saturday and was approached by a man who said
he knew someone with a DeLorean for sale. He didn't have a lot of
details. It sounds like an 82...its painted blue, 5-speed, grey
interior, less than 30K miles. He thought it was running but needed
a water pump. He said that the owner may be negotiable on the price
(he thinks the owner is asking about $6K). He gave me his name and
phone number, if anyone is interested contact me offline and I'll put
you in touch with him.
I will be at the Mid-Atlantic Spring Social this weekend. Sorry I
don't have any more details.
Brent Lundgren
83 #17006
81 #3049
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 14:04:39 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Warrenty pamplets value and authenticity
James, There is a copy of the literature and other items that came with the
car on the web site.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: James LaLonde [mailto:deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:14 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Warrenty pamplets value and authenticity
I have a craig stereo warranty leaflet... and one for the Goodyears
tires. I know the craig warranty is for the stock radio... and I'm
pretty sure the tire warranty is too.
What does the goodyear warrenty read or look like, just so I can
verify that it is the original before I sell it.
Secondly... are these items worth anything at all? A token payment
for my trouble of mailing them or maybe they are ultra-rare and worth
more than the car itself?? :P
any advice would be appreciated by both me and the poor guy who's
been wanting me to send them to him already! :P
Thank you!
James L 004009
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 21:50:19 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Hood Emblem
I own car 10250, an 82 model. I had a close look at the corner of the
hood and found some smalll scratches in that area. Knowing that late
production cars has a hood emblem, which I personally find VERY
distasteful, I'd like to find out if my car does fall into the VINs
of the hood emblem production.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:27:19 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: yet another performance question
Does anyone on list know if a lotus twin turbo v8 engine will fit in
the Delorean engine bay. i have access to a lotus engine with 1500
miles on it from a theft recovery car and am itching to try it
out...thanx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:50:08 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Paint for louver
Hello,
Thanks for the advice Rich. I decided not to go with the bedliner
spray on the louver after talking to a few people. I thought it might give a
cheap appearance to the car. Autozone had a new paint by Dupli-Color that I
have never seen there before. It is called Dupli-color "Trim Paint". Can
says it "Restores OEM Black finishes" "Quick Drying" etc. If Michigan wasnt
so damn cold I would be painting the louver right now but it looks like I may
have to wait until Thursday. I also purchased some surface prep cleaner to
remove the years of Armor All. I will let you all know how it turns out.
ps. I saw my first Bricklin "in the wild" at Autozone today.
Peace,
Dave
6286
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:01:36 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Speedometer
What makes the speedometer jump when i first start driving my car? It doesnt really jump
it just reads at a higher speed till it warms up. after a while it stops and goes away.
Like at 2500 RPM i should be at 65 MPH but i am reading 75 MPH and after driving for a
while it will drop to 65 MPH, this seems to happen in the cold weather.
Mark
6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 23:15:36 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Paint for louver
What's with the louvre paint?
I thought my louvres were faded beyond repair. They looked horrible. I
sprayed them down with armor all and let it sit (didn't wipe it off right
away). Now they look much better, almost like new (or maybe new? I have
never seen a new louvres...)
For a group that shirks painted Deloreans, it seems that the louvres get
painted pretty fast.
Jim
On Mon, 21 Apr 2003 16:20:50 -0000 "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> Dave,
>
> For louvers, I have used Krylon Semi-Flat Black with good results.
> Most recently, I painted the louvers on D Rex about 15 months ago
> with Krylon Semi-Flat Black and it still looks good. Note: D Rex
> is outside on display at GodMudders most of the time (uncovered).
>
> Most of the underbody and frame of the D Rex has DupliColor brand
> textured truck bedliner coating on it, and although it does look
> good in these areas, I do not think it would "wear" as well on a
> set of louvers. It will peel if the surface is not REALLY clean
> of all oil, grease or the "look good" coatings such as Armour All.
> Coating may chip if louvers make contact with the roof T-panel.
>
> I would stick with the Krylon or have a paint shop re-spray the
> louvers with a Semi-Flat Black paint made for use with fiberglass.
>
> Later,
> Rich W.
________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 03:44:00 -0000
From: "thestupidaso" <samcard@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Any ideas re: new wheels?
I bought my Delorean new in 83. I recently had it restored to factory
fresh...it was in great shape going in and looks excellent now.
Problem is that I didn't redo wheels and they are shedding paint
chips and need redone which I understand is expensive. And I am
wondering if some sweet new chrome or aluminium wheels might look
better. Maybe even those crazy ones that keep spinning at stops. Any
suggestions will be welcomes and appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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