[DML] Digest Number 1442
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[DML] Digest Number 1442



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1442

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Oil plug tool.
           From: "outatym2001" <markman660@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Re: Aftermarket car stereos
           From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. RE: Re: Aftermarket car stereos
           From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
      4. Re: Auto trans slipping
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
      5. Leather Interior
           From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
      6. Re: "When all else fails, get a bigger hammer?"
           From: "Darin Wolf" <son_darin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Modified Deloreans
           From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
      8. Re: Re: Aftermarket car stereos
           From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
      9. Re: Leather Interior
           From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 10:57:16 -0000
   From: "outatym2001" <markman660@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil plug tool.

Located in your Parts Catalog it shows the same part # 103815 for the
Engine Oil Drain Plug, Auto. Trans Final Drive drain and fill Plugs,
and Auto Trans. Autocase Lower Pan drain plug.
So, Yes they are the same.  8 mm square female hole.
I found a square key 5/16"x5/16"x1-1/4" works pretty well and turn it
with a crescent wrench.
Please review MY post # 16298 regarding the oil drain plug removal
tool.  And read the very bottom of the same message.
The Manual Trans. Gearbox Casing drain and fill plugs are part #
103016.  This is a 10 mm square male thingy.
John Hervey of www.specialtauto.com makes life too easy.  From him
you can buy a hex head drain plug (S.S. or Brass) and not have to
screw with making your own drain plug removal tool.

Mark R. Vanyo
DeVanloreanyo
VIN # 02261


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
Are all the fluid plugs on the car (oil, transmission, final drive)
the same, and can the oil drain plug tool be used for all of them?

thanks,
Adam 16683




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Message: 2
   Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 08:00:15 -0500
   From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Aftermarket car stereos


A few things.. I did this last summer, and put together this page with the radio harness info for both Craig and ASI radios for anyone who might go through the same thing:

http://www.eskin.net/radioharness.html

Second, as Dave mentioned, you can not use the common ground for the speakers - my Alpine head unit didn't work very well until I separated the grounds for each speaker - so it's unlikely you'll be able to install any new radio without cutting some wires.  I used the old harness for most of the power and some speaker connections, but had to run some other direct from the new radio harness as well.

Third, if you don't want to cut your existing bracket, and you don't want to bother with painting the DMCH DIN bracket, give Rob Grady a call - he'll take a NOS bracket and cut it to exactly fit your mounting sleeve.  Or, if you want to send him your old one, he'll probably cut that one and return it to you for a lower cost.

-Hank




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Message: 3
   Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 08:09:09 -0500
   From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Aftermarket car stereos

Yep...I went through all this last spring.

Here is what I did....

I replaced the center console mount with the one from DMC
houston...BEWARE!  You MUST paint it! (otherwise the shiny metal shows
through!  See pics 191 and 315 on the link below.)  I also opted to
replace ALL the wiring in the car for the radio (I left the original in
place just in case a future owner of the car wants to use it)
Here is pics of my radio install:
http://www.abato.net/web/dmcradio/index.htm

Now...as for speakers,  I replaced the fronts and put in new wires (no
biggie)  for the back, to replace the 4x10s it a pain in the @ss, and
they don't sound good anyway.  Instead, I ran new wires up the center
console, and built new rear wall (about $30 in parts, and a couple of
hours time)  Here are pictures of THAT process:
http://www.abato.net/web/dmcradio/index.htm



-----Original Message-----
From: Adam [mailto:acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 10:50 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Aftermarket car stereos


Hey I am also dealing with this right now. You should be able to wire
up the radio without cutting wires in the car, but the radio
connector harness will definatley help out, I guess special T has
them, and also the midstate delorean club.

I also cannot decide if I want to cut the original radio bracket, or
order a DIN style bracket from DMCH. If someone wants to buy my
original then i will preserve it.

Adam 16683


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Aaron PETERSON" <mrroboto1@xxxx>
wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I have a question to all of you owners that have had after market
car steroes installed. My DeLorean has the original DMC stereo still
in and it is starting to go to pot. My question is  that when any
other stereo was installed, was there any re-wiring that was re-done
to the  car and/or the having of new speakers installled in
association with the new stereo. I am not looking for a custom sound
system; just one that has an operational radio and cassette deck.  I
want to ask now before I go and pull everything out and make a
complete mess of my stereo system. Thanks a lot!
>
> Aaron Peterson
> mrroboto1@xxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 23:38:43 EST
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Auto trans slipping

Richard, I just updated a brand new unit before it went on the car. Even the
new ones haven't been updated. It had a dated code of 1995. So, If you bought
a new one and didn't up dated it, then yes it could be going out.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

 

<< I just replaced my computer/governor two years ago, and put about 4-5k
miles on the car per year.  Could it be going bad on me again or is this more
of a mechanical problem?
 
 Any help would be greatly appreicated.   Thank you!
 
 Spreading the word in central CA,
 
 Richard  
  >>



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Message: 5
   Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 00:23:34 EST
   From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Leather Interior


Has anyone replaced the massive amounts of vinyl with real leather?

Mike



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Message: 6
   Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 05:52:44 -0000
   From: "Darin Wolf" <son_darin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "When all else fails, get a bigger hammer?"

The fix seemed simple enough, to me it just seems that the fan was
dirty, so it might behoove you to find some way to clean it out.  If
you can find some air in a can, which is usually sold at a computer
hardware store, then you might use that in order to free the fan
from the remaining debrees on the inside.  I myself live on a dirt
road where any time a single vehicle passes by, most of our vehicles
are swamped by sand and dirt that tends to get into the doors and
jam most of the systems.  Often times the air in a can wouldn't be
strong enough, and if that is the case then it might be better to
use an air compressor with a tool used for air cleaning.  I think I
picked one up at either Nappa or Sears.


> doctordhd@xxxx wrote:
>
>I'm not a guy who likes to use a hammer to fix things but after the
advice on
>the list I tried it.  One of my cooling fans wasn't running so I
jacked up
>the "D" and slid under it to take a look.  I unplugged the fan
motor wires
>and connected them to a 12 volt power supply.  Then I tapped the
back of the
>motor housing ever so gently.  The fan turned a couple of degrees. 
I thought
>it was mearly from the vibration of the tapping but each time I
tapped it
>turned more and more until it ran by itself!  Now it seems to work
properly
>when reconected.  I'm not sure how long this "fix" will work but I
can't seem
>to figure out how to remove the motor without taking the entire
front of the
>car off.  Any ideas and comment would be appreciated.
>
>Dave
>6530
>

>




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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 21:32:50 -0600
   From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
Subject: Modified Deloreans

Considering I had little else to do on a Friday night I went over to visit
with my mechanic. Just to give everyone a little bit of background, this my
"mechanic" used to build monster trucks, engine, frame, everything. He can
fabricate just about anything, the resources this guy has are just
incredible - he has pulled out the entire engine in my Delorean,
disassembled, rebuilt, replaced, etc... Its the first Delorean he has ever
worked on, but he is fearless and needless to say has some some wonders with
my car so far.

The first thing I asked him about was frames, because obviously it has been
a concern of many people that over the long term they would rust out and
require replacement, and he assured me that he or any good fabrication shop
could put a tube frame back under that car or repair the frame if there was
anything left. He felt a frame could be fabricated at a pretty reasonable
price, much less than the option currently available. Needless to say I was
impressed (and relieved) that he felt it would be a fairly staright forward
thing to do.

This led to my next question for him, which was: What is the most horse
power you think you could jam into one of these things? His suggestion was
to pull the frame out from underneath the car, and put a boxed square frame
underneath which would free up that center area (the middle of the double
Y's) for a drive train. This would allow you to keep the car rear wheel
drive and have a front mounted engine.
For an engine choice he likes Chevys because there are so many options
available, specifically the large block Chevys. I ofcourse asked him how he
would get that size engine in that area in front and his response was
classic, "Well, it might stick out of the hood a little."

I'm wasn't so sure if I would want to have an engine hanging out of the hood
of my Delorean, so we discussed some of the the newer high HP engines now
available with twin turbos or something like that. There seem to be a ton of
options available as far as engines go, and fabricating the drive train
wouldn't be a problem.

Has anyone actually attemped to do such a thing yet? Mounting the engine up
front would certainly do away with the front end issues (lack of steering
because your tires are off the ground) and putting some real HP into a D.
Are there any 500+ HP Deloreans out there? I am seriously considering
undertaking this project, and would be interested in feedback.

Mike
VIN 4761

P.S. Anyone have a D for sale cheap with a rusted out frame and trashed
engine they want to sell cheap? :)




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Message: 8
   Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:51:04 -0500
   From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Aftermarket car stereos


On Saturday, March 29, 2003, at 08:00  AM, Henry wrote:
> Second, as Dave mentioned, you can not use the common ground for the
> speakers - my Alpine head unit didn't work very well until I separated
> the grounds for each speaker - so it's unlikely you'll be able to
> install any new radio without cutting some wires.  I used the old
> harness for most of the power and some speaker connections, but had to
> run some other direct from the new radio harness as well.

As an alternative to rewiring the speakers, you can solve the "common
ground" problem with an inexpensive device called a "floating ground
adaptor", such as the Peripheral FGA4.  I bought one recently from
River Oaks Car Stereo:

http://www.installer.com/acc/index.html

Cost was $22.95.  For the record, I have not yet installed this, but it
isn't rocket science, so I suspect it will work just fine.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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Message: 9
   Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 14:59:39 -0500
   From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Leather Interior

yes I did one seat at a time and I even covered the dash and the passenger
knee pad.  Even without the wrinkles, you cannot tell I did it.  It is a
perfect match and I had the reupholstered throw in a half inch think pad on
the seats so they feel a little softer, it also makes the leather wrinkle
free and nice like new cars.

I will post pics soon.

Joseph
----- Original Message -----
From: <Senatorpack@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 12:23 AM
Subject: [DML] Leather Interior


>
> Has anyone replaced the massive amounts of vinyl with real leather?
>
> Mike
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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