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There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: unusual speedo failure
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
2. Re: front brake rotor replacement
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Strange Stalling problem
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
4. Re: Re: unusual speedo failure
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Throttle sticking - I think
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:46:06 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: unusual speedo failure
speaking of speedometers, I'm been left wondering about the lower speedo
cable... It just seems too long.. I got the 'short' one that was
reccommedned by DMC houston, but I'm still confused about where to put
it.. It's twisted into almost a complete circle to take up the slack in
length.. Is this how its supposed to be?
1537
On Wed, 31 Oct 2001 16:52:59 -0000 jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> This could be a bad idea. Many mechanical systems are designed with a
>
> "fuse" type element in them so that a "disposeable" part fails
> protecting more expensive or delicate parts in the system. This
> plastic cap is probably designed to fail in the event the speedo
> cable
> jams or the angle drive fails. If you had a fuse that keeps blowing
> you wouldn't stick a piece of wire in instead would you? This is
> analogous to what you propose. As often happens people focus on the
> symptom without concern for the root cause or the total design of a
> system. If you look at most speedo drives they are driven by a
> plastic
> gear. This is done for two reasons, they are cheap to change if you
> want different ratios but more importantly they will strip out in
> the
> event of a jam-up.
> David Teitelbaum
> vi 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> > Walt and group. What if I had a metal cap made with extra beef /
> metal where
> > the cable installs. I have a machine shop that loves specials.
> They
> just
> > turned me 60 small pullys for the alternators for $5.00 ea. My
> original
> > source had dried up, so it was either turn them or get out of the
> alternator
> > business. Now the other source buy's from me.
> > What does the group think. New metal caps.
> > John Hervey
> > http://www.specialtauto.com/
>
>
>
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>
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 14:39:16 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: front brake rotor replacement
I'm not convinced that applying too much torque to the lugs necessarily
warps rotors either. When I got my D, the lugs were tightened to over
200 ftlbs. I had to go buy a breaker bar to get the lugs free, and even
so, ended up bending the metal on one the lugs. Still, I haven't
experienced any warped rotor problems. Just that #@$! squeal!!
1537
On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 11:03:32 -0800 (PST) E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
writes:
> Actually if anyone used an air-ratchet to put on your front wheels
> that
> could do it also. Too much torque warps the rotors.
>
> On Tue, 30 Oct 2001, Walter wrote:
>
> > When my mom asked me why I keep shaking the steering wheel every
> time I put
> > the brakes on, I figure I have been driving with this dangerous
> condition
> > long enough. How did the rotors get warped that bad? Two hard
> stops in a
> > row from 60mph. That screwed them up real good.
>
>
>
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>
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 16:26:00 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Strange Stalling problem
Kevin,
You could have water trapped under the upper fuel pump cover. The
water
could short the electrical connection to the pump from the front main
harness.
Mike
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 16:38:14 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: unusual speedo failure
Ok, Just thought I would ask. I guess I have been fortunate. 52,000 miles
and
hasn't broken. I just thought that the metal might strip less. Your right,
maby it should, to protect the neglance of not being oiled.
John
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 19:47:56 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Throttle sticking - I think
Sounds like the throttle valves are not closing fully, or the idle speed
motor is passing too much air, or there's another intake tract point of
entry. If you can push the throttle valves closed to the point where the
idle
returns to 900 rpm then its probably an issue with the valves or linkage
binding due to grunge or wear. Once fully closed the idle motor should
step
in and regulate airflow to the intake side of the equation until a steady
750
rpm is attained. If it never drops to 750, then its because there is too
much
air entering the intake tract. Your job should you choose to accept it is
to
figure out where it's getting in :-)
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