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There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Lock Probs, most likely module?
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. Matching tyres in the UK
From: nbeatson@xxxxxxx
3. RE: car capsule
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Fuel Lines/Save a Buck
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
5. Lug nuts and Fast idle
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
7. Re: car capsule
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
8. Cold engine and smoke
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: Lug nuts and Fast idle
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
11. Anti-sieze compound
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Lug nuts II & Idle II
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Idle III
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: Lug nuts - WARNING
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Spare (Donut) tire
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Travel Specials from US to Ireland to attend Eurofest 2001
From: rdh@xxxxxxxx
17. WD-40 the other side
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Auto trans ARRRGGHHH
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Nose bra question (Colgan Custom brand)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: Auto trans ARRRGGHHH
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
21. Idle Speed
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
22. Re: Nose bra question (Colgan Custom brand)
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 22:33:45 -0000
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Lock Probs, most likely module?
Hi all,
I've read up on the past issues and all, but I think my problem may
be a bit different. My passenger side lock does not fully lock or
unlock when activated either by the driver's side lock or by the
keyless entry (Alpine). The solenoid does move the button half way,
kind of in a half locked position. Now the strange part: this usually
only happens when the car is off. When running, the locks seem to
have more 'power' and carry through with the locking or unlocking. My
battery seems to have all the power in the world, so I really can't
blame the battery I don't think. I don't have lockzilla (yet, but I
get the feeling I may soon!).
The button needs to be pushed the rest of the way into locked or
unlocked position in order for the door to actually lock or unlock.
What do ya think? Zilla it? Anything in particular I should fiddle
with first?
Tyler
#3472
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 07:42:13 EST
From: nbeatson@xxxxxxx
Subject: Matching tyres in the UK
Question for all UK Delorean owners.
Has anyone replaced their tyres recently?
I've so far spent over a week trying to find matching front and rears only to be told that Yokohama no longer make rears, and Michelin are so far not yet available in the UK.
Any help would be appreciated.
Nigel
vin 02677
license plate 'DOC 16V'
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 07:53:02 EST
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: car capsule
I have one - it is a wonderful product and he stands behind it 100%. I had a fan motor failure and Steve sent a new one for free without even hesitating. I suspect most would have tried to charge a buck for it.
Fred
6894
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 14:46:25 -0000
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Lines/Save a Buck
I think the following quote pretty much says it all.
"Remember, it's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too
little. When you pay too much, you may lose a little money but when
you pay too little, sometimes you lose everything because the thing
you bought was incapable of doing the job it was bought to do."
Author unknown.
Ron & Cheryl
#6322
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 07:25:09 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lug nuts and Fast idle
I've skimmed the last quarter of 2000 and have a couple of comments.
Number 1, I hate the donkeys with impact wrenches that tighten lug nuts
so you can't get them off in case of a flat (I use the same technique as
mentioned on the list, 4' of 1 1/2" pipe as a lever for my lug wrench
and check every vehicle that I become owner of). Yesterday, day 11 of
my ownership I did the D, it was the worst I've seen, bent my very tough
lug wrench. I've seen nuts so tight they stretched the studs, forcing
stud replacement and after a time ground out so much metal the wheel had
to be replaced, ditto the lug nut. Mag wheels are also prone to crack
causing replacement of the wheel. Always specify hand tightening if you
don't do your own, or preferably, get a torque wrench and just have the
wheels snugged on and you finish to specs.
Fast idle. I read a question from another newbie inquiring as to why
his idle was so fast. He was told, in effect, there was no control over
this, it's handled by the idle circuit...just not so, there's an idle
stop screw adjustment that can very quickly run the idle up to very high
revs. My unit was surging every second from about 500 to 1200. I don't
know what the true answer is (yet) but I could hold the throttle down
slightly and it idles well when set at 850 so I set it there by turning
the stop screw in very slightly...there's a lot of adjustment left on
that screw.
Les
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 16:46:25 -0000
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?
Just a thought. Try the grounds for the locks. Sounds like you
might have a loose ground wire.
Scot
6452
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:02:06 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: car capsule
A good place to look is in Hemmings Motor News. It is the bible of the
car hobby and can be found on any large newsstand. There are several
suppliers of different types of car enclosures. You can also subscribe
but be warned there are too many nice things to buy!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jalbin@xxxx wrote:
> Does anyone know where I might find an inflatable car capsule (to
protect my
> Delorean) ... a unit that can be used outside not inside my garage?
>
> jim albin
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:05:16 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Cold engine and smoke
Hello,
When I start my Delorean after a week or so of not driving it, a lot
of exhaust smoke comes out. It's not a bad looking smoke, just a lot
of exhaust. Is this normal? Once the engine warms up or when I
start to drive, it is fine. Also, when it is cold it tends to
hesitate a bid in first. It will never stall or loose total power,
just hesitate a bid when I give it some gas.
Thanks for the help
Erik Geerdink
4512
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:06:19 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lock Probs, most likely module?
The problem sounds like you need to adjust the locking mechanism in
the door first. You cannot cure this with a lock module. You need to
get the service manual to properly do all of the adjustments. Be
careful the stainless steel edges inside the door are SHARP.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, graves_14@xxxx wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've read up on the past issues and all, but I think my problem may
> be a bit different. My passenger side lock does not fully lock or
> Tyler
> #3472
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 18:23:55 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lug nuts and Fast idle
You need to make certain the micro switch for the idle circuit is
making contatct at idle. There are 3 screws on the intake, all 3
should be set closed, lightly.There is no idle adjusment as such, the
idle computer takes care of it if everything is working and set
correctly.
As far as torqueing the wheels most shops are more concerned about a
wheel falling off than you removing a flat so they "go to town" and
really sock those wheels on.The better shops are now using Torque
sticks to tighten lugs. It is a colored extension that resonates when
you reach the desired setting, different colors indicate the torque
of
each extension, they have different diameters. They really work.
Using
a lug wrench and pipe is no longer the way to go except to take off
the lugs. When you remove the wheel clean the lugs because they
collect tiny shards of metal from air gun happy mechanics who spin
the
lugs on and off. Be careful as they are sharp and after cleaning use
WD-40 to lubricate the threads. Recheck the torque after the first
100
miles of driving and be sure to alternate when tightening the studs
say a pattern of 1-3-2-4 so as not to warp the rotor. You should also
make sure that the surface of the rotor and the corresponding surface
of the rim is clean so the wheel won't wobble.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
> I've skimmed the last quarter of 2000 and have a couple of comments.
> Number 1, I hate the donkeys with impact wrenches that tighten lug
nuts
>hy
> his idle was so fast. He was told, in effect, there was no control
over
> this, it's handled by the idle circuit...just not so, there's an
idle
> stop screw adjustment that can very quickly run the idle up to very
the stop screw in very slightly...there's a lot of adjustment left
on
> that screw.
>
> Les
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 10:33:23 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Anti-sieze compound
In the Corvair world where I spent many happy years, you were always
admonished to use an anti-sieze compound when installing steel into
aluminum. I'm sure this holds true for the D's also. Any auto parts
store should have it, get a small tube and lightly coat anything you
screw into the block or heads, especially sensors, thermisters, studs,
and the like...you may want to get it loose sometime without a torch and
hours of frantic misery. If you're in a hurry and can't wait, at least
give the threads a shot of WD-40.
Les
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 11:55:13 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lug nuts II & Idle II
Hey, studs are the only threads I DON'T put WD-40 on. WD-40 is a two
edged sword, it really does penetrate and lubricate, sometimes you don't
want all of what it can do.
Re idle, the postings say this might be wrong and that might be wrong
and check all of it. Hasn't anyone worked out a system and sequence?
At the moment I don't know where the components are located and how best
to check them other than the little snippets I've read. In the TV biz
we called it shot-gunning when you changed everything involved to effect
a cure. Tune-up shops do that, if you change everything involved it's
likely you'll get a fix. I have to know the what and where and why, can
anyone tell me before I have to work it out on my own? Thanks. Also,
desperately need to know the value of the motor fuse #1 so I can remove
the relay installed with the alarm from hell.
Les
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 12:27:54 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Idle III
Not going to argue that the system is working improperly but am going to
tell you that it does indeed idle quite well with the throttle stop set
as is and the micro switch set properly. I'll listen to anything except
it can't and it won't because it does! Tell me more, thanks, Les
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 15:44:21 -0500
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Lug nuts - WARNING
WARNING!!!
David, I'm sorry to say this but you are very WRONG!!! DO NOT USE ANY
LUBRICANT ON THE LUGS!!!!
I'm sure you don't want your wheels to fall of while driving. Most car
manufacturers will state that in the owners manual. You are not suppose to
use anything on the wheel lugs. And WD-40 is probably the worst thing you
can use. Just clean the lugs with a soft wire brush and that is it.
Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298
tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx
----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
<SNIP>
>after cleaning use
> WD-40 to lubricate the threads.
<SNIP>
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 12:23:58 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Spare (Donut) tire
First, what a great forum, thanks to all of you. Now that I can get my
wheels off here's what happened with my spare. It held no air, it also
had the nozzle from an aerosol can stuck between the bead and the wheel
on the inside. Are we talking sloppy folks out there? After airing it
up, (it had obviously been flat for many months or years) it was again
zero air the next morning, leaking all around the front of the rim.
Took it to the local tire shop and they have a product called bead seal
and they proceeded to brush it all the way around the bead. Held
everywhere except where the nozzle was but in a couple of day that
sealed too so now have full complement of air. Not sure of the point of
this other than this being my first experience with bead seal. I was
going to get a new tire but none in my town. For now we go with the old
one.
Les
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 20:04:56 -0000
From: rdh@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Travel Specials from US to Ireland to attend Eurofest 2001
Ireland Vacations is advertising some very attractive specials from
the US to Ireland through May 31. Check them out at:
The Emerald Farmhouse B&B offered by Sceptre Tours at:
http://www.shamrock.org/self_drive/emeraldfarm_f2001.html
includes round trip air from the US, car rental and 6 nights B&B
housing for the following:
New York/Boston/Baltimore $679
Chicago $749
Los Angeles $799
Information regarding DeLorean Eurofest 2001 is available at:
http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/eurofest2001.html
Ray Haug, Internet Director
DeLorean Owners Association
webchair at delorean-owners.org
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 14:57:58 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: WD-40 the other side
WD-40 is a very powerful product and should be used with some
discretion. I stated a few of my uses with a negative on wheel studs,
Tom told it better but that's the idea. I'd like to relate one
anecdote, I hope it's permissible, I have a friend who's a cop, he used
WD-40 to oil his police special, decided to do the bullets too...when it
came time to use it in a critical situation the bullets wouldn't
fire...the PD issued a warning bulletin. Get the idea?
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 19:09:49 -0600
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Auto trans ARRRGGHHH
Well rebuilding the Auto Trans GC works -- sort of. After about 30 miles or
so of driving car drops from 3rd to 2nd and won't shift back up. Let it sit
for about an hour or so and you are good to go for about the same amount of
time. ( sounds like heat failure of transistor TIP42 that I replaced the RCA
Transistors with ) Also shifting from 1st to second gets flaky if driving
continues.
Any other advice on this is welcome. At this point I am going to pull out
the TIP42s and put back the RCA Transistors to see what happens.
BTW the TIP42s can be replaced with NTE197s as well. ( the NTEs seem to have
a larger voltage range but I am not sure that matters since I don't really
know the full aspects of the circuits involved. )
Matthew L. Walker
Vin 1219
Seriously looking at redesigning that circuit board.
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 20:14:55 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Nose bra question (Colgan Custom brand)
When I bought my DeLorean last year, it came with a Colgan Custom brand nose
bra. I never tried putting it on until a few days ago. I found that it is
way too big. It wraps around my chest several times. But it fits my car
just fine. :-)
Anyway, it came with no instructions or storage case, but it has clear
plastic windows that can attach over the headlights with velcro. I'm
wondering if this was a custom modification done by the previous owner or if
it was made like this originally. I'm suspicious that it was done custom.
Can anyone tell me either way?
If anyone is interested in buying mine, I'll sell it for a reasonable price.
But I suppose that depends on if we both can agree on what reasonable is.
If you want to make an offer on it, reply privately. If you post to the
list, it may not get posted and not forwarded either.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 22:03:46 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Auto trans ARRRGGHHH
Matthew,
Did you install spike shunting diodes across each of the two solenoids and
bias them correctly? The OEM unit didn't have these, and perhaps your new
transistors can't take that kind of punishment.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 03:00:53 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Idle Speed
For a comple description of how the idle speed circuit is physicly
connected, check the archives for a write up I did a little while
back. The idle speed of the engine is regulated entirely by the idle
speed ECU. Circuit wise, from what I've read about the main chips
on the board, I think (don't hold me to this yet, I havent yet
studied
the board THAT close) the way that the circuit works is this: Faster
the idle, higer the electrical input to the ECU. When ever the signal
(idle) is too high or low, the unit increaes/decreases air flow
accordingly to correct itself (which in turn modifies the strength of
the signal). Idle speed (input tolerances). are preset and determind
by the types of chips that are installed.
I'm a little fuzzy as to what exactly your syptoms are, and which
screw(s) you are refering to in your post. The 3 idle adjustment
screws on the intake manifold are not used in the DeLorean
application. On the throttle lever assembly there are 2 screws there
that act as a stop, and a switch trip.
When diagnosing a problem with the idle speed circuit, check the
following things in this order (remember, this is NOT a detailed
list, only a brief one):
1. Verify the screw on the throttle assembly is making proper contact
w/the idle speed microswitch.
2. Check that all wires in the connectors for the the idle speed
motor
and the ECU are seated properly.
3. Verify that you are recieving the power/ground to all the proper
wires in the circuit (a detailed, yet simple process).
Check these items and take things from there. Located in the vault is
a copy of the wiring diagram and it's respective legend. A workshop
manual from your friendly parts vender is ALWAYS a priceless
investment as well.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Re idle, the postings say this might be wrong and that might be
wrong
> and check all of it. Hasn't anyone worked out a system and
sequence?
<SNIP>
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 22:41:41 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Nose bra question (Colgan Custom brand)
In a message dated 2/4/01 8:51:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< Anyway, it came with no instructions or storage case, but it has clear
plastic windows that can attach over the headlights with velcro. I'm
wondering if this was a custom modification done by the previous owner or if
it was made like this originally. I'm suspicious that it was done custom.
Can anyone tell me either way? >>
Hi Walt-
These were out of production for years. Last year I was able to get together
a sufficient order to induce Colgan to reissue a limited batch. They all
sold. I'm not aware of any other source of new DeLorean custom made nose
bras at present.
The storage bag is an option. The clear windows are original equipment. They
give some lateral stability to the window hole, but you can use the nose bra
with or without them. It's a really nice heavy duty, well made item, isn't
it? The owners who bought them loved them.
I put a pic of mine in the vault: <A
HREF="" href="http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">
http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra</A><A
HREF="" href="http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">.JPG</A> The
original nose bra comes with a warranty and installation info. I put togther
an additional instalIation guide with photos to make it even easier. You can
install it in minutes. Send me your address privately and I'll send you a
copy. It's nice to have whether you keep the nose bra or sell it.
I've been thinking it's time to see about reissuing another batch. I need 15
orders to make the minimum. I haven't rechecked price and availability with
Colgan. If anyone has an interest at present, please contact me at:
deloreanernst(at)aol.com. I know several people contacted me last time after
we sold out. Maybe we can put together an order... have them in time for the
beginning of the show season. Nice to have on your car when you hit the
hiways for shows. You should have seen the bugs and junk on mine when I
drove from here to Richmond, Va. for the big British Car Show last fall. (Ten
hours round trip.)
-Wayne A, Ernst
The New DeLorean Manuals Project
vin 11174
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