dmcnews-digest Tuesday, August 4 1998 Volume 03 : Number 395
In this issue:
DML: RE: Dash removal
Re: DML: VIN Question
DML: Re: VIN Question
Re: DML: parts reference guide
DML: More electrical stuff
DML: Cooling fans
DML: price
Re: DML: More electrical stuff
DML: Re: Re: Wheel Balancing
DML: Biloxi, MS meeting
DML: Help me clear out this DeLorean memorabilia/parts!
DML: Literature Needed!
DML: Re: More electrical stuff
DML: Re: Cooling fans
DML: Shipping by Sea
DML: Governor rebuild help
DML: Seat Covers
Re: DML: price
DML: RE: parts reference guide
DML: Wheel Balancing
Re: DML: Governor rebuild help
DML: DOC Website
Re: DML: Governor rebuild help
Re: DML: Shipping by Sea
DML: Service Facilities
Re: DML: Seat Covers
DML: Re: DOOR AJAR LIGHT
DML: Up-Date
DML: Auto Trans not shifting
DML: Re: Service Facilities
DML: Re: Shipping by Sea
Re: DML: Seat Covers and Leather Protectant
DML: Door Light Diodes
DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: RE: Auto Trans not shifting
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Playboy JZD Interview Article
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 13:43:51 -0500
From: thgraham@xxxxxxxx (Travis Graham)
Subject: DML: RE: Dash removal
I have some very basic instructions for dash and binnacle removal on my
web
site at http://edge.net/~thgraham/projects/instruct.htm Keep in mind that
the dash article was written some time after the removal, so it's a little
rusty. But it should give you an idea of what you are getting into. My
belief is that the repair shop won't care for my car like I do, therefore
I
always do all repairs that I can by myself. The dash is definitely
possible
for a do-it-yourselfer. Good luck!
Travis Graham
- -----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of De
Miller
Sent: Friday, July 31, 1998 11:08 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Dash removal
question is this: can the dash be "easily" removed so I can take it to the
repair shop?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 12:23:22 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: VIN Question
On 8/1/98 6:46 AM, OLopez1@xxxxxxx shared these fine thoughts...
>I have a question about the VIN numbers on the DeLoreans
>From the DMC-News Back Issues, #272, written by Robert Lamrock:
Yes I am one and the same although I don't profess to be a world expert -
that was Classic & Sports Car's opinion not mine. However I thought you
might like to read about your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) and how
it came about.
The Vehicle Identification Number is a 17 character alpha/numeric number
with
10 fixed characters and 7 variable characters:-
SCEDT26T (X) AD 000000
Constant Check Constant Ascending Digit Sequence
SCE = World Manufacturer Code
D = Car Line
T = Series
2 = Body Type
6 = Engine
T = Restraint System
X = Check Digit
A = Model Year
D = Plant of Manufacture
000000 = Serial Number
The year of manufacture is determined from the following table;
1980 A
1981 B
1982 C
1983 D
If production had continued then 1984 was coded E and so on. There were
codes in place right up to the year 2012!!!
For those mathematicians out there you can calculate the Check Digit by
the
following;
a) Assign to each number in the VIN its actual mathematical value and to
each
letter the value specified in Table 1.
b) Multiply the assigned value for each character in the VIN by the weight
factor specified in Table 2. Multiply the check digit by 0.
c) Add the resulting products and divide the total by 11.
d) The remainder is the check digit. If the remainder is 10 the Check
Digit
is X.
Don't ask me how or why but it works!! (See my calculation below
tables)
TABLE 1 Mathematical Value of Letters in the VIN
A = 1 B = 2 C = 3 D = 4 E = 5 F = 6 G = 7 H = 8 J = 1 K = 2 L
= 3
M =4 N = 5 P = 7
R = 9 S = 2 T = 3 U = 4 V = 5 W = 6 X = 7 Y = 8 Z= 9
TABLE 2 Character and Weight Factor
1st = 8 2nd = 7 3rd = 6 4th = 5 5th = 4 6th = 3 7th = 2 8th = 10
Check Digit = 0
9th = 9 10th = 8 11th = 7 12th = 6 13th = 5 14th = 4 15th = 3 16th
= 2
My VIN Calculation
S C E D T 2 6 T (Check Digit) B D 0 0 3 9 1
5
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
=
2 3 5 4 3 2 6 3 (0) 2 4 0 0 3 9 1
5
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 10 (0) 9 8 7 6 5 4 3
2
=
16 +21+ 30+ 20 +12 +6 +12 +30 +0 +18 + 32 + 0 + 0 + 15 + 36 + 3
+ 10
Grand total = 261
Divide by 11 = 23 remainder 8. HEY PRESTO MY CHECK DIGIT !
Search the back issues - that's why they're there!
James Espey
Use the back issue search engine!
http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 14:14:30 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: VIN Question
OL,
All cars built for USA distribution USA a 17 digit coding system, this
code
has a formula which identifies the model year, body type, engine,
manufacturing plant, etc..
The final one to six digits identifies the chassis number. Due to the fact
that most DeLorens share similar codes due to the fact that there is only
one body style, one engine type, one factory, etc., DeLorean owners use
only the last five digits to identify their vehicles.
Here is an example of a full DeLorean VIN# : SCEDT26T3BDO03370
- ----------
> I have a question about the VIN numbers on the DeLoreans
>
> Most people when they post a message or refer to their car usually post the
> last four or five digits of the VIN number. Since I don't own a DeLorean
> (yet) I was wondering if the beginning part part of the VIN number is the
> same to all DeLoreans. If so what would an entire VIN look like.
>
> Thanx
> OL
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 12:27:45 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: parts reference guide
On 8/1/98 5:48 PM, De Miller shared these fine thoughts...
> I would like to know if there is some sort of master parts catalog,
>reference listing etc., available? It would be helpful to use on the
>great site service Delorean Motor Company has. I've used it a couple
>times and it works great, but I don't know the correct name for the
>parts I'm looking for and it apparently needs the correct name.
(SNIP)
The DMC-News site contains a PDF version of the factory parts manual that
is free to download. Look for it at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html
There are a lot of interesting things at the website, including a
searchable archive of the 390+ back issues of the DeLorean Mailing List.
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Aug 1998 16:21:48 -0700
From: matthias@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: More electrical stuff
The non-switched 12V+ on my radio vanished some weeks ago and I
feel like the AC fan died at the same time. The manual sais there
is a fuse in the radio line, but it doesn't say where. Where does
this cable (it is violet) come from and where is the fuse (if any).
Thanks! Matt
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 23:30:57 EDT
From: FerrisBuh@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Cooling fans
Friends,
I have to say that I appreciate all the replies about my cooling fan
situation. However, I think I was a little too vague. Hence: Okay, about
six
months ago, I upgraded the relay dept. Then, I hit a series of bumps in
the
road, wishing shortly afterward I had let my friend drive. Well, the next
thing I knew, I am in the sweatbox from Ireland, with the temp. gauge
soaring
like an eagle. I got out of the car, and the fans had stopped. A local
shop
told me that the old UK fans had both been surged and had burnt out. Rob
Grady
and Don Steiger said they had never heard of two fans going out at once,
ever.
Well, I had both fans replaced with Bosch fans (which I am told are
reliable,
but blow less air than original). I brought the car home to two fans that
never shut off (lending credibility to Bruce Benson's concept). So, I
replaced
the thermostatic sending switch. Then, the fans never went on. Well, come
to
find out, the lead wire for the fans, was loose. $800 just whisked away in
fans and labor? Well, now, the fans went on and off without problem,
however,
Duke had a valid point here, the fans did cycle fine when my idle was bad
(1300 rpm idle). Well, Don went through the car at Delorean Motor Center
and
replaced the sending switch with a new one, and with a new seal. Now
here is
where Knut has a point; does the sending switch have a lead and ground?
Close
inspection of the switch shows no + or -.
Right now, the Bosch fans come on at about 195 degrees, and as Knut
predicted,
shut off at 155 or so. I understand that 210 and 190 are the turn on/turn
off
temps, respectively. With the thermostat looking for a higher temp,
highway
driving isn't enough to turn them off. And, I'm sorry for not specifying,
the
a/c has been off. I like the open mail slot driving.
Since the idle was fixed, the fans have been a problem. Duke, Knut, Bruce,
Joe, any suggestions?
Contemplating why my girlfriend thinks I love the car more than her,
Dave
Lic. Insecur
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 1998 08:34:14 +0100
From: Kieran Masterton <kieran@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: price
hiya all
I just wanted to ask you guys if you thought you can still buy a delorean
for $10,000 or am I being to much of a cheap state. I do want to have to
do
it up because I am buying it as a project for my Dad and myself to work on
so it does not have to be in great shape. I would like to know are there
still deloreans ot there for that price or will I have to keep saving ? I
am asking this because I have only seen D's @ that price on the web and
most of them are months old !!
thanks in advance
P.S. Is there anywhere on the web with good listing of D's for sale that
is
always updated apart from http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk because it is
down atm :)
Kieran Masterton
Technical Support at the easynet & ukonline national call centre
http://www.easynet.co.uk & www.ukonline.co.uk
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 10:10:12 EDT
From: DMC3309@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: More electrical stuff
Matt,
The fuse you are looking for is an inline glass fuse that should be in
the
radio wiring harness that comes out of the back of the radio. There
should
be two of them. One for the power to the radio and one for the memory
back
up.
Robert
VIN 3309
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 12:49:59 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Re: Wheel Balancing
Aaron,
There are a number of factors that can cause wheel shimmy but the most
common by far is wheel balancing. If your balancing procedures wear off
after a short period of time you probably have a defective tire. "Out of
round" or an uneven wear pattern is most common.
The procedure for "on the car" balancing is rather simple and straight
forward. Two people are required to quickly and effectively complete the
procedure. One person is outside the vehicle operating a tire spinner.
This
is a machine that is placed under the wheel that is being adjusted, it has
two large rollers that turn and cause the wheel to spin. The operator can
control the rate of spin i.e.: tire MPH. As the wheel is spun up to speed
the person inside the car holds the steering wheel as if driving the car
and feels for any shimmy. Balancing weights are than attached to the wheel
and the procedure is repeated. This process is repeated until all wheel
shimmy is eliminated.
The advantage of this system is that the dynamics of every item in the
suspension system becomes part of the balancing procedure insuring much
better results. All high performance cars are wheel balanced in this
manner. As mentioned before, if you have a defective tire even this
procedure will not reduce the frequency of repeated balances. On the other
hand the "on the car" balance can more accurately diagnose a defective
tire.
The average Pep Boys/Goodyear dealers are not equipped to provide this
service. Alignment shops that advertise performance or racing alignment
service are usually equipped to do "on the car balancing"
..Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 1998 12:47:52 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Biloxi, MS meeting
Dear friends,
As each day passes by we are getting closer and closer to the
meeting I am trying to arrange in Biloxi, MS. We really aren't meeting
in Biloxi. The restaurant is in Gulfport. I have no idea why I keep
saying Biloxi.
The name of the place we will get together is Morison's Fresh Cooking.
They are located at 9400 Hwy. 49 and are in Gulfport. I hope this place
will be easy to find since it is located across the street
from Wal-Mart. If you need to call them they are at 228-868-2962.
As for the people who will be there, there should be three Alabama
owners and I know there will be at least one Louisiana owner. There are
about three more Louisiana owners that would like to attend. One of
them has told me that he will not be able to make it and the others
won't know until the last minute. I still know of another Louisiana
owner and I have been trying to get his contact info for the past week
or two. A friend of mine told me he should have the mans number soon so
I will go and see if he has gotten it yet.
I hope the numbers of people attending doesn't seem to small. I
don't want to have a meeting that isn't going to be as good as everyone
is expecting. All this should be is just a small lunch for about an
hour or so and then we will all be going home. It is always fun to meet
with other enthusiasts and with owners. I just hope there isn't much
disapointment.
If you are one of the people that hasn't decided if or not you will be
there please give me a call as soon as you can so we can discuss the
matter. Page me at 504-350-7911 or call 504-386-3816.
Thanks for reading this far,
Steve Rice
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 98 12:54:15 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Help me clear out this DeLorean memorabilia/parts!
I would like to clear out some of this DeLorean "stuff" that is taking up
space..email me for ordering info or other information.
(1) copy of Stainless Steel Illusion. This is a pre-release book, sent
out to reviewers, bookstores, etc. I am told that generally speaking,
only a few hundred of these books are ever produced. Before the book is
sent out for the hardback binding process, the Publisher pulls some books
and puts a "quick binding" on them to get them in the hands of those
reviewers and purchasing people. I have only seen two other examples of
this type of SSI. I am asking $190 it.
(3) copies of THE DELOREAN TAPES ($40). This book was published inthe UK
and I have never seen one for sale here in the States. It contains the
transcripts of the FBi surveillance tapes during their failed attempt to
entrap JZD. Interesting reading...
(4) copies of Special Interest Autos ($6) from June of 1995, which has
the DeLorean on the cover (this is one of of the early cars with the
white letters on the bumper). It has a nice article on the car written by
former DMC exec Mike Knepper.
(1) copy of October 1985 Playboy ($20). Contains one of the first
post-trial DeLorean interviews. Buy this and you can say that you *DO*
read Playboy for the articles. Also has the distinction of being the
first Playboy with a flat-edge binding.
Still have a few DeLorean hood emblems at $20 each, and one or two cargo
nets at $70 each,too.
Interesting trades always considered....
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 23:51:28 -0400
From: "yugoman" <mdrig@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Literature Needed!
My car only came with a Xerox of the owner's handbook. Does anyone have
an
original copy for sale at a reasonable price? Better yet the whole package
with warranty book, dealer list, etc.?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 12:57:26 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: More electrical stuff
Matt,
Both radio fuses are in-line type glass fuses and are located just below
the radio behind the A.C. control panel. They are usually best accessed
from the passenger foot well.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 03:40:45 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Cooling fans
Here are the factory specs for cooling fan operation. Fans on at 207 F off
at 196 F.
The temperature switch has no polarity, the ground wire can be connected
to
either side of the switch.
PS: A gentleman should not love his car more than his girlfriend, except
if
the car is a DeLorean.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 19:49:54 +0100
From: "Ian T. A. Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Shipping by Sea
Hallo DMCers,
Your comments and experiences would be appreciated on shipping a DMC by
sea.
I'm shipping my '81 DMC from Baltimore to N.Ireland in October'98 by a
roll-on, roll-off ferry. As it will probably be open to the elements of
the N.Atlantic I'd appreciate any advice on suitable protection. I have
been told that 'ordinary cars' will get a coat of "Waxoil" to protect
them during the journey. I'm a little nervous about spraying this over
my gleaming stainless steel. Also I saw a couple of DMCs in LA that
seemed to have reacted with the salt-air near the coast.
If anyone has shipped a DMC before I'd appreciate hearing how you
prepared it?
Cheers, IAN (Hong Kong)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 08:24:26 -0400
From: sontos <sontos@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Governor rebuild help
Ok, say it, we told you so. The auto trans shifting problem "Was" the
computer governor. After replacing the Vacuum Modulator it still would
not shift. (Another $116 up in smoke). Following Mark Hersey's posting
from March I disassembled the governor and lo and behold there were the
two capacitors with their guts blown out.
Heres the problem, the first capacitor reads 4.7/16 which I assume means
4.7 microfarad@16 volts. The second capacitor I can only partially read
- --0/10.
Can someone tell me what part to use here?
Thanks
Dave
VIN 2573
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:40:13 EDT
From: Mzmimi98@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Seat Covers
My car seats are in terrible condition. Does anyone know of cloth seat
covers that might work? Also my dash has several cracks and sun damage.
What
can I do?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 20:18:00 +0100
From: "Ian T. A. Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: price
Hi Kieran,
As I think I said previously there are cars out there not being sold.
Its very possible those cars in the adverts you saw are still available.
I saw one ad in SanDiego which was over a year old and the car was still
available. A lot of the owners said they wouldn't go below $14k but when
you put cash on the table its amazing how they change their minds. The
DMC is not a greatly sought after car so its a "Buyers Market." My DMC
was originally advertised for $20k, then $16k two weeks later. He
eventually accepted my $10,500 offer. The car is perfect with only 28k
miles.
I would advise you to look for a pristine car, forget 'fixer-uppers',
you will waste your time and money! There are definitely good 100% cars
out there for $10k ... its just being in the right place at the right
time!
Cheers, IAN (Hong Kong)
PS. Did you have any contacts for the Customs and Exise Dept.?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 07:43:53 -0700
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: parts reference guide
"De Miller" <demillerkansas@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I would like to know if there is some sort of master parts
> catalog, reference listing etc., available? It would be helpful
> to use on the great site service Delorean Motor Company has.
> I've used it a couple times and it works great, but I don't
> know the correct name for the parts I'm looking for <snip>
The DeLorean Parts Reference Database has a complete searchable
and browsable database of the DeLorean parts (its an electronic
version of the parts manual). You can download a copy from
www.dmcnews.com
The parts manual is also available at the web site as a PDF
document as well.
In many cases the part namings are not consistent across different
organizations' conventions, but the part numbers should match
pretty well.
Knut Grimsrud
DeLorean Club of Oregon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 10:11:53 +0000
From: Jim Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Wheel Balancing
Forty years ago or so there were three ways to balance a wheel:
1. Static balance with a bubble balancer ( You can still buy one of
these.)
2. Dynamic balance by spinning a wheel on a machine similar the the
computer
balancer but it spun the wheel very fast
3. Spin balance the wheel on the car. It was done only on the front (non
driven) wheels and the after balancing, the back wheels were moved to the
back.
As Joe said, it took two people to do the job. A device was mounted on
the
rim, similar to the way that the mirrors are mounted for wheel alignment.
This device had some slip rings mounted at the axle center and had
bearings
so that they could be moved while the wheel was spinning. One person
would
spin the tire with an electric motor mounted on a dolly with about a five
foot handle. When to tire was at high speed, the motor was pulled back
and
the operator adjusted the slip rings to control the amount of weight and
its
position in the device. Since he was holding onto the device mounted to
the
rim at its rotation point, he could feel any vibration and correct it by
changing the position of the slip rings. When the wheel was stopped the
device indicated the amount of weight need and its position on the rim.
After weights were added, the device was zeroed and the wheel was spun
again. It took five to ten minutes per tire, but remember, they weren't
getting $65 an hour back then either.
Insurance companies prohibited use of dynamic and spin balancing twenty
years
or so ago when slow speed computer balancers came along.
Jim #6884
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 14:28:03 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Governor rebuild help
I have a 5 speed, but I can tell you to replace those capacitors with
higher voltage rated parts. 16V is marginal for a 12V system, and 10V
is obviously not enough. No wonder they blew out!
When you replace them, make sure you put them in correctly.
Electrolytic capacitors DO have polarity, and will eventualy POP if you
put them in wrong.
sontos wrote:
>
> Ok, say it, we told you so. The auto trans shifting problem "Was" the
> computer governor. After replacing the Vacuum Modulator it still would
> not shift. (Another $116 up in smoke). Following Mark Hersey's posting
> from March I disassembled the governor and lo and behold there were the
> two capacitors with their guts blown out.
>
> Heres the problem, the first capacitor reads 4.7/16 which I assume means
> 4.7 microfarad@16 volts. The second capacitor I can only partially read
> --0/10.
>
> Can someone tell me what part to use here?
>
> Thanks
> Dave
> VIN 2573
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 02:41:52 +0100
From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DOC Website
Hey all,
After only three days of being up, my ever-so-helpful ISP took my web
space down. That was two weeks ago. As I write this, my computer is busy
uploading the website again. There are a few minor changes for those who
had already visited it, but to those who haven't seen it may I say:
I hereby proudly present the DeLorean Owners Club UK Website - Again!
(sheepish grin)
The URL is http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk
Loads of pictures, and NONE that you will recognise. Includes shots of
the 140MPH and 240KPH speedos as well as a factory original right-hand
drive car, and much more....
I'd also like to say how much I enjoyed reading John Hanley's transcript
of him vs. the taxman :-)
Best Wishes,
Martin
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 02:51:19 +0100
From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Governor rebuild help
sontos wrote:
> Heres the problem, the first capacitor reads 4.7/16 which I assume means
> 4.7 microfarad@16 volts.
Nope. the capacitor value will not change with voltage. You are almost
certainly correct about the value though.
> The second capacitor I can only partially read
> --0/10.
>
> Can someone tell me what part to use here?
>
If I'm correct, these capacitors are purely there as "smoothing" caps. If
someone can confirm this, then it is fine to use a capacitor with a higher
value up to a good 10 times the original. The size of the cap is a ROUGH
guide as to its value.
Martin
> Thanks
> Dave
> VIN 2573
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 02:54:58 +0100
From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Shipping by Sea
No point in touching the stainless, salt won't do anything to it, apart
from it needing a clean when you get home.
Could well be worth doing the underside of the car - I know of a car which
has this as a preventitive measure anyway.
Martin
Ian T. A. Foster wrote:
> I'm shipping my '81 DMC from Baltimore to N.Ireland in October'98 by a
> roll-on, roll-off ferry. As it will probably be open to the elements of
> the N.Atlantic I'd appreciate any advice on suitable protection. I have
> been told that 'ordinary cars' will get a coat of "Waxoil" to protect
> them during the journey. I'm a little nervous about spraying this over
> my gleaming stainless steel. Also I saw a couple of DMCs in LA that
> seemed to have reacted with the salt-air near the coast
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 16:03:56 EDT
From: CDIUSAMPS@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Service Facilities
Hate to ask this question but here goes. I need a repair facility in AL,
GA
or MS area that can adjust doors and adjust the torsion bars. The
numbers in
the current DML garage list have been disconnected. My garage will do
engine,
trans, electrical, etc, but not body work. Problems are, passenger door
has
air leak towards front. Doors do not leak water at all. Door rubber
replaced, did not fix it. Both doors droop unless car is at a side angle.
Last struts lasted 1 year, these have been on since christmas and did not
really work, but I suspected it was due to cold weather. Now it is
really hot
and they still do not work. Both sets bought from two different major
parts
suppliers with the "D" word in their title, neither work worth a sh**.
Tired
of doors hitting me in the head. Thanks in advance. BILL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 13:10:04 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Seat Covers
At 12:40 PM 8/3/98 EDT, you wrote:
>My car seats are in terrible condition. Does anyone know of cloth seat
>covers that might work? Also my dash has several cracks and sun damage.
>What
>can I do?
>
Reply:
There are a number of solutions, some are better than others and some I am
sure others will not agree are reasonable.
1. You can just purchase new (17 year old) originals from any of the DMC
suppliers. These will cost from $450 to $600+ per set (2 seta and 2 back
covers). If you don't know it they are not "all leather" the originals are
"Leather center panel with both inner and outer panels made from "Nauga
Hide".
You are still faced with installation and fitting.
2. You can get on occasion NEW made recently Seat covers which are
identical to the originals but not 17 years old. These when available are
just as expensive and require installation and fitting.
3. You can Make your own seat covers, and use all Leather. (My choice for
any future needs I have). This may sound like a poor choice but in fact it
is not difficult at all.
4. You can get off the shelf "Seat covers" made of a;; sorts of materials,
fake hair, canvas, Fur, Levies, etc......These are cheap and in my view
cheapen the DMC when used.
The reality is that once the original materials begin to break down
nothing will save them. You may find some one here on the DML or one of
the
other on-Line access that has a used but fair condition seats for sale.
5. Your final and maybe best option is a local car upholstery shop. The
will give you an estimate and wide choice of materials. You may want to
get
vented seats which on long hot trips are really nice. There is no doubt
that you will pay less if you do a little shopping at the local
upholsterer.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 17:09:10 -0400
From: Aldo.Buono@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Re: DOOR AJAR LIGHT
The thread on the door ajar light problem ran a few weeks ago,
and I think it did not run to completion.
Mike Substelny reported his light would come on when certain other
events happened. He also reported that he had pulled the #12 fuse.
If you pull your #12 fuse, the door ajar light will come on
sporadically. Why? Back feed from another electrical circuit,
probably the circuit controlled by the #5 fuse. You would think
the diodes in the #12 circuit would prevent the light from coming on,
but they don't.
THe engineers who designed the circuitry in the D never expected
anyone to pull the #12 fuse for any length of time.
Aldo Buono, President
De Lorean Midatlantic
VIN 1440
DOC #14
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 01:46:57 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Up-Date
Up-Date:
For those on the DML and the List of 100, The latest DMC Limited edition
Model Kit "up-Date" will be posted on Wednesday evening. You can find the
Up-date posted on the DMC Message Board at:
http://www.totalimmersion.com/dmcboard/
You may also like the new x-ray view...(not a see through drawing) of a
DeLorean. It has the body, wheels, engine (including pistons), and manual
transmission. This project is part of the limited edition and grows in
complexity as the kit develops.
http://www.totalimmersion.com/HotDMC.html
You may find the continued National Geographic Magazine special Delorean
Issue interesting. Added to the 1981 cover and the DMC road sign are two
pages featuring DeLoreans in a very unlikely place. You can find these
two subjects at:
http://www.totalimmersion.com/ng1.html
If you are waiting for DMC Keys please go to the DMC Message Board and
look for the Keys thread.
Thanks
Lee
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 07:57:11 -0400
From: David Sontos <sontos@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Auto Trans not shifting
Re: Auto Trans not shifting
Not having received any response back from the DMC, I purchased a 10MFD
@ 35WVDC from Radio Shack for the electrolitic capacitor I could only
partillay read of --0/10 and a 4.7MFD @ 35V for the other capacitor
(4.7/16). I replaced the capacitors and put the governor back in the car
and it still does not shift. The light stays on for the solenoids. Mark
Hersey's posting says that the transisters may be bad. How does one test
transsisters or is it just replace and hope deal. Or maybe the 10 MFD is
not the right value. Any help is appreciated here.
Dave
VIN 2573
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 01:59:17 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Service Facilities
Bill,
We are a DeLorean ONLY repair facility in Atlanta, GA. We are members of
the DeLorean Owners Assn. and are listed on their world wide directory. We
are also members of the Southeastern DeLorean Owners Club and have been
servicing D's since 1984. You can also find several technical articles
written by, yours truly, in DeLorean World. If you would like to speak to
me "live" call me anytime at 770 631-4800.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 02:05:34 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Shipping by Sea
Ian,
You already have all the protection you need, rust and corrosion proof
304 grade stainless steel, I would be more concerned about the under body
fasteners and frame, those items do rust and corrode.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 08:51:15 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Seat Covers and Leather Protectant
SEAT COVERS
Point of interest: Some very nice, new, leather DeLorean seat covers are
available for a reasonable price at www.dmcnews.com
List member Jack Stiefel has these seat covers, and they look so
perfect that he won an award at Cincinnati with them. You really cannot
tell them from the originals.
LEATHER PROTECTANT
One of our local DCO members, Dana Kalchoff, still has the original
leather seat covers on his car and they look BRAND NEW! A few weeks
ago I looked at his seat covers very closely and I would have sworn
they were fresh from the factory, even though Dana has owned his
DeLorean since new in '83 and drives it frequently.
Naturally I asked Dana to tell me his secret. He said that for the past
fifteen years he has protected his seats with the original DMC factory
leather protectant. Assuming he wasn't BSing me, this stuff really did a
marvelous job for him. He stocked up on it at the warehouse in
Columbus a few years ago becuase he plans to use the same product
forever. The last I saw there was still a supply available from DMC
Houston.
Does anyone know what magic ingredient the DeLorean Motorcars
Company put in their leather protectant product? I go to lots of classic
car shows, and based on Dana's car as a field test, the DMC stuff is the
best protectant I have ever seen.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 09:11:50 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Door Light Diodes
Aldo Buono said:
> If you pull your #12 fuse, the door ajar light will come on
> sporadically. Why? Back feed from another electrical circuit,
> probably the circuit controlled by the #5 fuse. You would think
> the diodes in the #12 circuit would prevent the light from coming
> on, but they don't.
>
> The engineers who designed the circuitry in the D never expected
> anyone to pull the #12 fuse for any length of time.
Previously, Ken Montgomery had said:
> I had this happen too. It was the diodes in the light circuit.
> They can be found in the wiring harness just under the dash
> by the drivers right leg. They're 2 black items with connectors
> on each end.
I am becoming convinced that I, and many other DeLorean owners, have
burned out the diodes in our door circuits. This might be due to removing
the #12 fuse for long periods, since it is common practice to pull the
fuse
when leaving doors up at a car show. Bad diodes that leave the marker
lights on might account for a lot of dead DeLorean batteries!
I would like to check my diodes this weekend. Ken gave a good
description, but could someone help out by posting the color of the wires
to these diodes?
Has anyone found a good, permanent solution? Sturdier diodes,
perhaps? A kill switch for the marker lights only?
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 98 10:46:50 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
On 8/4/98 6:12 AM, Mike Substelny shared these fine thoughts...
>I am becoming convinced that I, and many other DeLorean owners, have
>burned out the diodes in our door circuits. This might be due to removing
>the #12 fuse for long periods, since it is common practice to pull the fuse
>when leaving doors up at a car show. Bad diodes that leave the marker
>lights on might account for a lot of dead DeLorean batteries!
Is pulling the fuse really that common? When at shows, if I am leaving
the doors open for more than 3-4 hours, I will manually turn off the dome
lights and pull the wires at the back of the door switches. One of the
local owners here has taken a short length (about 5 inches) of fuel line
hose and has it wedged between the striker pin and door switch.
James Espey
Nearly 400 Back Issues of the
DeLorean Mailing List Instantly Searchable!
http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:05:29 -0400
From: Cirillo Ronald A NUWCDIVNPT <CirilloRA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Auto Trans not shifting
Dave,
Transistors can be tested easily but necessarily accurately with
an ohm meter. To make sure there is no feed back in the measurement
they should be out of the circuit. You must identify B (base) C
(collector) and E (emitter). First place the leads of the ohm meter
across the C and E leads. There should be no movement of the ohm meter
no mater which lead is connected to the C or E. You have try it both
ways. Next do the same between B and E. The meter will show a reading
in only one direction. Next do the same for B and C. The meter again
will show a reading in only one direction. If the above passes then the
transistors are most likely good. The only sure way to test is with a
Beta tester or curve tracer. If you need any additional information
e-mail me directly.
Ron
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:16:29 EDT
From: KKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
For those of you at the Cincinnati DeLorean Car Show that wanted to leave
your
doors up but couldn't I would like to suggest you invest in those battery
saving kill switches that go right on the battery terminal. It will help
you
at shows so you do not worry that the car won't start later. This was a
problem considering we displayed the cars for quite a long time. There
will
be more oportunities to show the cars in Cleveland so its my suggestion to
look at these switches. They are about $12.00 down here but well worth
the
peace of mind. There is also no drilling or additional wiring needed.
Sorry I got side tracked from the diode thing but this memo reminded me
of it.
See you all in 2000
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 98 11:22:45 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Playboy JZD Interview Article
A lot of people were interested in the Playboy magazine JZD interview
that I offered over the weekend. I made som ecopies of the article for
those that missed out and have a couple extra photocopies of the 10 page
article. Send me a dollar bill for postage and hassle and I will mail you
a copy, too.
DMC-News
P.O. Box 4833
Mesa, AZ 85211-4833
Thanks!
James
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 98 11:31:10 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
On 8/4/98 11:17 AM, Ken Koncelik shared these fine thoughts...
>doors up but couldn't I would like to suggest you invest in those battery
>saving kill switches that go right on the battery terminal. It will help you
The downside of a battery cutoff/kill switch is you have to reset your
clock and stereo presets. A small inconvenience compared to not having
your car start, but still not an ideal solution, IMO...
James Espey
Nearly 400 Back Issues of the
DeLorean Mailing List Instantly Searchable!
http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #395
*****************************
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