dmcnews-digest Thursday, August 6 1998 Volume 03 : Number 396
In this issue:
Re: DML: Auto Trans not shifting
DML: Interior Colors?
Re: DML: Interior Colors?
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Re: Auto Trans not shifting
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Re: Door Light Diodes
Re: DML: Interior Colors?
Re: DML: Interior Colors?
DML: Re: Re: Door Light Diodes
DML: re: Wheel balancing
DML: re:Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Re: re: Wheel balancing
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Aesthetics
DML: Strange add in Dupont Registry
Re: DML: Strange add in Dupont Registry
DML: Try the NEW DeLorean Mailing List Search Engine...
Re: DML: Strange add in Dupont Registry
DML: Engine Mods
DML: interior
Re: DML: Aesthetics
DML: Reliability of DeLorean Parts (was "Aesthetics")
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Wrecked D
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
Re: DML: interior
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
RE: DML: price
Re: DML: interior
DML: Re: interior
Re: DML: Wrecked D
Re: DML: Engine Mods
Re: DML: interior
DML: Just bought one
Re: DML: Wrecked D
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 14:42:27 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Auto Trans not shifting
You can test a transistor with a OHM meter. Basically, a transistor
will look like 2 diodes hooked together to the meter.
So test between all 3 legs in both directions (reverse polarity)
Example: You have the Emitter, the Base, and the Collector, lets call
it legs 1, 2, and 3.
If you measure between 1 and 2, and read a LOW resistance, reverse the
leads and you should now read a HIGH resistance.
If you measure between 2 and 3 and read a LOW resistance, reverse the
leads and you should now read a HIGH resistance.
Now... When you measure between 1 and 3, it should be (approximately)
the same in BOTH directions, it may be high in both, it may be low in
both (Depending on if it is a PNP or NPN transistor)
The first 2 tests are the most revealing. If it measures low in both
directions, or high in both directions then the transistor is most
likely bad.
I think someone on the DML is working on a re-design (or just a beefed
up design) of the governor.. You may want to check the archives.
I offer my electronics experience and knowledge to work on this project,
but I currently don't even know what the thing looks like! I am lucky
enough to have a manual trans. If someone in the area (New Jersey) with
a Automatic DMC, and a broken governor or too wants me to take a look,
just let me know!
Marc
David Sontos wrote:
>
> Re: Auto Trans not shifting
>
> Not having received any response back from the DMC, I purchased a 10MFD
> @ 35WVDC from Radio Shack for the electrolitic capacitor I could only
> partillay read of --0/10 and a 4.7MFD @ 35V for the other capacitor
> (4.7/16). I replaced the capacitors and put the governor back in the car
> and it still does not shift. The light stays on for the solenoids. Mark
> Hersey's posting says that the transisters may be bad. How does one test
> transsisters or is it just replace and hope deal. Or maybe the 10 MFD is
> not the right value. Any help is appreciated here.
>
> Dave
> VIN 2573
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 12:45:53 -0700
From: Jason Perkins <jperkins@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Interior Colors?
My 83 D has grey cloth interior and black leather seats. I thought the
color
choices where all black or all grey. Is there a vin# that seperates the
two? I have looked through the past archives, and have found no relevant
information on split colors. Anybody have an answer to this?
JAson Perkins
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 17:09:54 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Interior Colors?
Story I heard was that most of the 83's were slapped together from the
leftover parts... Guess they either ran out of gray seats, or black
interior.
This statement has no basis in fact, just what I heard.
Jason Perkins wrote:
>
> My 83 D has grey cloth interior and black leather seats. I thought the
> color
> choices where all black or all grey. Is there a vin# that seperates the
> two? I have looked through the past archives, and have found no relevant
> information on split colors. Anybody have an answer to this?
> JAson Perkins
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 18:15:57 -0400
From: medic-1@xxxxxxxx (A Johnson)
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
I put in new pin switches when I did the work on my car. I can't find
the part # in my records but it is a VOLVO part that I got at a VOLVO
dealer. You push it in and twist it, so it locks in the "door closed"
position until you close the door, then it goes back to normal. It works
fine for my w/o any problem.
AJ
VIN: RECOVERED (and still unknown)
On Tue, 4 Aug 98 11:31:10 -0700 James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
>On 8/4/98 11:17 AM, Ken Koncelik shared these fine thoughts...
>
>>doors up but couldn't I would like to suggest you invest in those battery
>>saving kill switches that go right on the battery terminal. It will help you
>
>The downside of a battery cutoff/kill switch is you have to reset your
>clock and stereo presets. A small inconvenience compared to not having
>your car start, but still not an ideal solution, IMO...
>
>James Espey
>Nearly 400 Back Issues of the
>DeLorean Mailing List Instantly Searchable!
>http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:22:01 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Auto Trans not shifting
David,
Nine out of ten times the defective components in the computer governor
are
the power transistors. They are inexpensive and available from Radio
Shack,
any NPN tab-type transistor rated around 5 amps at 100 volts will do the
job. In some cases corrosion at the red multi-pin connector located in the
black box at the right front corner of your engine compartment could cause
shifting problems, pull this connector and spray the contacts.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:04:33 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
Here is an easy fix for "doors open battery drain problems". Purchase a
single pole single throw switch from any auto supply or Radio Shack, there
is a wide variety of styles to choose from, i.e.: lever, push button, and
slide. We have used the Radio Shack high current mini. # 275-324. It is
rated at 10 amps is very small and compact and even comes with handle
covers in green, yellow, red, or white. It sells for $2.99 and can be
mounted wherever you like. If your not a smoker the inside of your center
console ashtray is a perfect place. Wiring is also simple; find the solid
purple wire leading to fuse # 12 and wire the switch across the open
leads.
There is another option that I installed on my DeLorean. The brown wire
that feeds 12V to fuse #12 is wired to the battery; hot at all times.
Re-connect that brown feed wire to the accessory relay circuit (wires
colored white with a blue stripe). Now your courtesy lights will only work
with the key in the accessory or run position.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:53:48 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Door Light Diodes
> I am becoming convinced that I, and many other DeLorean owners, have
> burned out the diodes in our door circuits. This might be due to removing
> the #12 fuse for long periods, since it is common practice to pull the
> fuse Has anyone found a good, permanent solution? Sturdier diodes,
> perhaps? A kill switch for the marker lights only?
>
> - Mike Substelny
I sanded the top of the number 12 fuse until the metal blades were exposed
on the top of the fuse. I then soldered two wires, one to each blade, onto
the fuse and inserted an in-line fuse into one of the wires. I then
replaced one of the dummy center consule switches with rear window heater
switch and connected the wires to it. After making sue the top of the
number 12 fuse was insulated by wrapping electrical tape around it I can
now turn the light circuit on and off easily. I did this many years ago
and
have experianced no problems with the interior and door light system.
Instead of using an expensive rear window heater switch one could install
a
toggle switch in the ashtray, out of sight and accomplish the same thing
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 21:40:48 EDT
From: KKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Interior Colors?
I have 16684 and the same color scheme. It seemed that they just put in
what
they had. From my understanding they ran out of the grey and substituted
the
black. I kinda like the contrast. I've been looking for a number to
break it
but i've seen low 16000's mixed so I'm not sure ther is an exact number.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 18:59:30 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Interior Colors?
On 8/4/98 7:44 PM, Jason Perkins shared these fine thoughts...
>My 83 D has grey cloth interior and black leather seats. I thought the color
>choices where all black or all grey. Is there a vin# that seperates the
>two? I have looked through the past archives, and have found no relevant
>information on split colors. Anybody have an answer to this?
>JAson Perkins
Grey cloth interior? I'm assuming that you mean carpets and headliners.
The door panels, seats, and console are all covered in leather and/or
vinyl.
The door panels, seats, console and dash *should* all be either black or
grey. The carpets and headliners came in two shades of grey, one slightly
darker than the other one. Stephen Wynne knows all about this as he has
been sorting out the stock of carpets and other interior components at
the warehosue in Ohio.
Like Marc, I have also heard that there are/were cars with "mismatched"
interiors (i.e. black seats and grey console, etc). It is also my
understanding that these were among the last cars produced. How about
someone who it tight with Jerry Rhine asking him for the straight scoop?
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 21:32:34 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Re: Door Light Diodes
>
> I sanded the top of the number 12 fuse until the metal blades were exposed
> on the top of the fuse. I then soldered two wires, one to each blade, onto
> the fuse and inserted an in-line fuse into one of the wires. I then
> replaced one of the dummy center consule switches with rear window heater
> switch and connected the wires to it.
I neglected to mention that the number 12 fuse must be blown, using a
battery charger, before doing this. The fuse is only acting as a plug for
the wiring.
Sorry,
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 98 22:29:57 -0000
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: re: Wheel balancing
A few more comments regarding:
>From: Jim Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: DML: Wheel Balancing
>3. Spin balance the wheel on the car. It was done only on the front (non
>driven) wheels and the after balancing, the back wheels were moved to the
>back.
>As Joe said, it took two people to do the job. A device was mounted on
>the
I recall having the back wheels on a car spun as you describe, but using
engine power. (This was in about 1973). They spun the fronts with a
device that looked like a big Hoover vacuum cleaner jammed under the
tire. If you move the tires around on the car after spinning them you
kind of defeat the purpose of spinning them on the car.
The drawback to spin-balancing on the car, assuming that you are
balancing the whole rotating mass together, is that if you ever remove a
wheel you must put it back on the same place with the lug studs oriented
in the same holes, and if you ever rotate your tires (admittedly not a
big issue on a Delorean) you kind of defeat the purpose. Way more trouble
than its worth in my opinion - if your brake rotors are THAT out of
balance you should probably replace THEM, not make up for it by weighting
down the wheels.
This was probably a more useful procedure in the days of drum brakes.
With discs the spinning mass is concentrated more toward the center and
not as likely to cause an out of balance condition. Also, 40 years ago,
most tires were bias ply, relatively cheap, and 10-15000 miles was a lot
of tread life. It was also cheaper machinery than a high speed spin
balancer (before computers they actually used a high voltage spark gap!),
and did a much better job than a bubble balancer even if you did move the
wheels around. Brakes are not usually all that out of balance.
I also agree that if you can't keep the tires balanced for most of their
life on the initial balance, you probably have a defective tire (belt
separation) - or you drive too hard.
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 98 22:29:54 -0000
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: re:Door light kill switch alternatives
>Has anyone found a good, permanent solution? Sturdier diodes,
>perhaps? A kill switch for the marker lights only?
>- - Mike Substelny
also:
>>doors up but couldn't I would like to suggest you invest in those battery
>>saving kill switches that go right on the battery terminal. It will help you
>
>The downside of a battery cutoff/kill switch is you have to reset your
>clock and stereo presets. A small inconvenience compared to not having
>your car start, but still not an ideal solution, IMO...
After a couple of times yanking the connector off the door switches, I
mounted a double-pole toggle switch just behind the door light switches
on the driver's side, and wired it in line with each of the two (left and
right) doorjamb switches. This effectively disconnects both door switches
without having to get on my knees and unplug the switches every time. No
dead battery at car shows. This is easy to do without cutting any wiring
(use all crip-on spade connectors), and I made up a bracket and mounted
it using an existing screw. No permananent changes, and nothing shows. I
was looking into a whole-battery cutoff but didn't like the idea of
having to get into the battery box all the time, and resetting the clock
anymore than I already do.
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 04:31:03 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: re: Wheel balancing
David,
Thanks for the details on spin balance you helped to jog my memory. In my
recent posting on this subject I forget to mention that the rear wheels
are
spun by engine power. Additionally, we have a standard practice of always
marking the stud position of each wheel before removing it to be sure it
is
replaced in the same manner to insure consistent alignment.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 14:30:50 -0500
From: Bill Marcussen <billmarcussen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
On 8/4/98 11:31 AM, James Espey shared these fine thoughts...
>
> The downside of a battery cutoff/kill switch is you have to reset your
> clock and stereo presets. A small inconvenience compared to not having
> your car start, but still not an ideal solution, IMO...
>
Memory backup devices are available in the after market to prevent loss
of radio and clock memory when the battery is disconnected. They
typically use a 9v. (rectangular) battery, connected directly to the
radio memory circuit. This eliminated the preset inconvenience, but of
course adds another extra device.
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 12:22:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: AlexWildstar@xxxxxxxxx (Matthew Clarke)
Subject: DML: Aesthetics
I am interested in the DeLorean as both a period and aeshetic piece. It
is to say the least; a head turner.
I"ve been looking into buying one for quite some time now... however, I
hope to have some questions answered as I shop.
I know this car is rumored to be quite tempermental and requires TLC. I
really want to know what SPECIFICALLY the major problem spots are.....
especially within the mechanics.
If the engin is a big problem area.... is it possible to have it
switched with a "reliable" one?
I understand many of the other misc parts; shocks etc... must be
DeLorean to replace?
So maybe what I want to know.... without upsetting anyone.... is it
possible to give this great looking beauty an entire gut change so that
when I have problems.... I can take it to anyone... anywhere and have
them fixed.
Thanks for your time.... and answers...
Wildstar
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 14:35:34 -0500
From: Duke <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Strange add in Dupont Registry
Go to this url:
http://www.dupontregistry.com/finecars/
and chose DeLorean then 'find a match'. Its very interesting.
Later,
Duke
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 18:32:14 -0400
From: Nathan Gess <72chargerse@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Strange add in Dupont Registry
This car has been discussed a few times. Check the Back Issues for more
info.
Nathan Gess
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/7770/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 18:57:20 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Try the NEW DeLorean Mailing List Search Engine...
I would like to ask everyone to please try the new DeLorean Mailing List
Search Engine. I have been looking for something like this for a long
time and found what I think is a pretty good deal and an engine that
offers more flexibility than what we had. Email me directly with your
comments...
Thanks!
James Espey - Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
Try the NEW search engine...
http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 02:03:38 PDT
From: "Jim Plamondon" <saab82@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Strange add in Dupont Registry
- -Jim P.
Can any one tell me about that add, thats not really a DeLorean is it?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 04:11:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: WINGER2@xxxxxxxxx (TRENT BAILEY)
Subject: DML: Engine Mods
I am interested in adding headers and a cam to my car, does anyone have
any information on this. I am also interested in buying a LeBra car bra
for my car. I know they once made them but no longer do.
Trent Bailey
email: winger2@xxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 04:14:30 EDT
From: WtrResQ@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: interior
ok, i \ve now had my "D" for 2 months or so. i have this rattle in my
pass.
side door and i think its related to my pass. side window(it doesnt realy
roll
up quite right). the car only has 2000 miles on it so its hard to think
that
it cud have had a problem, but i think someone else has been in the door
panel
b4. my question is, "can any1 advise on the plactic clips that hold the
panels on?" i dont kno how to take them off and ive heard that they will
need
to be replaced once they r removed. i dont want to mess it up so im
asking b4
trying. any info wud be great, and oh, "can they be purchased, if they
need
to be replaced?" do i get them from one of the usual parts places or
just go
to a sereo shop???
thx again,
james
#0470
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 08:57:53 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Aesthetics
Most if not all of the common (and not so common) problems had common
repairs. The car, as is, should not be a problem for a skilled mechanic
to repair.
IMHO, the weakest part of the DMC, and the source of most problems a DMC
that is driven has is the electrical system. Most of the common
problems have well published and reliable repairs, In addition the
"Zilla" modules from PJ Grady make some design improvements in the
electrical system.
For the best "Education" on DeLoreans, check out the FAQ, and the DML
back issues.
Matthew Clarke wrote:
>
> I know this car is rumored to be quite tempermental and requires TLC. I
> really want to know what SPECIFICALLY the major problem spots are.....
> especially within the mechanics.
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 09:45:19 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Reliability of DeLorean Parts (was "Aesthetics")
Matthew Clark said:
> I know this car is rumored to be quite tempermental and requires TLC.
> I really want to know what SPECIFICALLY the major problem spots
> are.....especially within the mechanics.
>
> If the engin is a big problem area.... is it possible to have it
> switched with a "reliable" one?
Matthew, the DeLorean engine is *very* reliable. I am pretty sure that
most people who retrofit DeLoreans with a different engine do so to get
more horsepower, not greater reliability.
I can think of three sources for most DeLorean problems:
electronics, electronics, electronics.
Like Jaguars and other British cars, DeLoreans suffer from those little
electrical gremlins that plague Lucas components. It is VERY common
for DeLorean owners to remove the original electronics and install
various Bosch, Motorola, and 'Zilla products in their place. This will
greatly improve the reliability of a DeLorean.
As far as mechanical nuisances, I can think of two off the top of my
head: The rubber parts in the fuel system and the trailing arm bolts. You
don't have to be a rocket scientist nor a Rockefeller to solve these.
DeLoreans with automatic transmissions sometimes have a few special
problems, but these are mostly (surprise) electronic.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 09:27:51 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
James said:
> Is pulling the fuse really that common? When at shows, if I am
> leaving the doors open for more than 3-4 hours, I will manually
> turn off the dome lights and pull the wires at the back of the door
> switches. One of the local owners here has taken a short length
> (about 5 inches) of fuel line hose and has it wedged between the
> striker pin and door switch.
I tried that the first day I owned my DeLorean; it didn't work. The
problem
is that the passenger side marker lights completely ignore both switches.
Those marker lights continue to burn all the time, even when both
switches are disconnected. Based on these discussions this might be a
symptom of bad diodes, and mine must have been dead before I even
acquired my car.
The "remove the fuse at car shows" trick is one I have heard from other
local owners. It has also been discussed on the DML. I do not know if
the previous owner of my car did this, or if the diodes were distressed
by some other problem.
Of course I am still assuming that my diodes are bad. To help me test
them this weekend, could someone tell me the color of the wires that
lead to them?
Bruce Benson said:
> I sanded the top of the number 12 fuse until the metal blades were
> exposed on the top of the fuse. I then soldered two wires, one to
> each blade, onto the fuse and inserted an in-line fuse into one of the
> wires. I then replaced one of the dummy center consule switches
> with rear window heater switch and connected the wires to it.
Bruce, could you tell us about living with this solution? Are your diodes
fried? If you drive with the switch off, does your "door ajar" light come
on?
Joe at DeLorean Services suggested a switch similar to Bruce's. He
also suggested re-routing the circuit's power so that it was activated by
the ignition key.
I think Joe's ignition key solution is a clever idea. Unfortunately, this
makes the marker lights almost useless as the safety feature which they
were intended to be. Whith this solution the marker lights will almost
never come on.
Ken Koncelik suggested a "Battery Buddy," but James pointed out that
this will frequently kill your clock and your radio. So the search for
the
perfect solution continues. I have three ideas . . .
Idea #1) Put in a fusebox switch as Joe and Bruce suggest, but also
install much stronger diodes that will not burn out. Do these
super-diodes exist? I don't know. Anyone?
Idea #2) As James suggested, install a switch that completely
disconnects the lights from the circuit, somewhere other than the fuse
box. The best place to do this seems to be at the individual door
switches. Unfortunately, this solution only seems to work if you start
with healthy diodes.
Idea #3) In combination with #2, install an auxilliary power supply for
the
marker lights, used specifically at car shows. Your marker light kill
switch would have three positions: ON, OFF, & AUX. For example, one
position of the switch you installed in #2 could tie a bundle of "D" cells
into the lights. Those would keep your marker lights burning for hours,
and after the car show you could just throw them away.
Do these suggestions sound reasonable?
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 10:15:59 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Wrecked D
Dear DML,
It looks like I might be a very happy camper in a few weeks. My
next door neighbor is thinking about buying a wrecked D and fixing it
up. The D he is looking at just had a new engine put in. It only has
about 28k miles. It was in a front end collision so that means he will
need new front panels and most likely he will need a new hood.
We haven't been out to look at it yet but we plan on checking it out
monday. The price for the wrecked D is $2,500 and he hopes to be able
to fix it for about $2,500 more. I was just hoping I could get some
coments from others who have started with a wrecked D and fixed it.
Sincerely and stuff,
Stephen Rice
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 10:20:02 -0500
From: "Russell W. Knize" <knize@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
Mike Substelny wrote:
> Ken Koncelik suggested a "Battery Buddy," but James pointed out that
> this will frequently kill your clock and your radio. So the search for
> the
> perfect solution continues. I have three ideas . . .
I do not own a DeLorean and this is the first time posting to this list,
but I have been on the list of about a month and have been following
this thread. I'm an electrical engineer and I may have a few solutions
that could help. I have always been a DeLorean lover from the day I saw
one in a Motor Trend Magazine, before Back to the Future ever came out.
:) I have many articles on John DeLorean himself and have only recently
(within the past couple of months) looked to the Internet for more
info. I hope to someday get my hands on a DMC-12, but until then I will
just envy yours. :)
Here are some suggestions I can think of:
Install high-power "stud" rectifier diodes. The 1N1188 diode is rated
at 35 amps and 400 PIV (peak inverse voltage) and I doubt they will ever
blow...they would take out the fuse long before. They are called "stud"
diodes because they look like a screw with a solder terminal or pin on
top. The pin is the anode and the stud is the cathode. You should just
be able to solder these inline where the stock diodes are located
because you can solder to the stud side, or crimp a connector to the
wire and screw the diode onto it. These diodes are available at many
electronic outlet stores. You can also order online from Jameco (part
number 35924) at:
Do a search for: 35924
Another idea would be to install a timer. Many cars (perhaps the
DeLaroean even?) have a "courtesy lamp" that illuminates the floor
and/or ignition ket slot and then shuts off a few seconds (about 10 or
so) after the last door is shut. These lamps are powered by a little
thermal-timer module that is usually located with relays and flashers
and such. I think it has four terminals: two are the in-line switch for
whatever lights you want to light, one is the input from the door switch
and the forth is the opposite pole of the switch (i.e. if the switch
grounds the wire when the door is open, then this terminals gets 12V,
etc.). This way, the marker lamps will be on for a few seconds and will
shut off, eventually.
The last option I can think of would be to install a mercury switch in
each door with a relay. Mount the switch so that it is on when the door
is up and activates the lights (they should have done this anyway...).
You can get mercury switches and relays right at Radio Shack.
I hope I've been of some help,
- --
Russell W. Knize Motorola, Inc. - GSM
Email: knize@xxxxxxxxxxx Bedrock Project
Phone: (847) 632-4394
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 08:28:57 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: interior
At 04:14 AM 8/6/98 EDT, you wrote:
> ......... "can any1 advise on the plactic clips............"
reply:
Yes you can get them from PJ Grady's !
Lee
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 08:25:52 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
Burnibf lights,
This may seam dumb, and I have not done the work...but have any of you
looked at the wiring diagram of the passenger side door lights? Accepting
the fact that the lights never go off, dictates that there is power going
at least one side of the light circuit. If you remove both door jam
switches where else can the power possibly come from to drive the lites?
if
there is a diode blocked path then the diodes have to be bad. Diodes break
down over time even in perfectly balanced circuits.
For what it is worth I would simply replace the diodes as a starting point
and trace down all the possible paths power could flow through the lights
to ground.
Sorry if this sounds simplistic....I just think all the cut off switch
door
lights seams so over involved for what appears a very simple problem.
I had the door light problem - Dead battery problem like many others have.
I solved the problem in the usual way, replaced all the door switches and
modified them ever so slightly to prevent any possibility of switch
contact
grounding. I replaced all the diodes with higher tolerance parts (same
value 1%) and installed a very heavy duty battery cut off cut off switch
which also has an ign cut as well.
The console clock reset is no big deal, I use it as a trip time meter now.
I have a drawer full of watches so a car clock is in the so what
department
for me.
I got one of those fancy CD/FM/AM players that has it's own battery that
remembers all the settings (I never use this anyway) so breaking the
Battery circuit is the best possible solution, for my uses.
Sorry Mike none of this was aimed at you..........
If I can be of any help just ask!
Lee
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 09:50:18 -0700
From: "Dennis Chang" <dennis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: price
Kieran:
Yeah, here in the Los Angeles area I frequently see ads for DeLoreans
under $10K. I saw one for $8000 in San Diego that sold in a flash,
one for $9500 that's been advertised repeatedly-I think there's
something wrong with it-and another was going for $7000 in Paso
Robles. That one has been bumped up to $11K since some repairs
have been made by the owner. All the ads/sales occurred in the past
three months.
The point is, you can often find D's for under $10, but there's gonna
be several large repair bills waiting for you. These three cars all have
body damage and the latter two had/have engine troubles.
If interested in the one in Paso Robles, check out this site:
www.fix.net/~bkankiew/delorean.html
Good luck!
Dennis Chang
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 12:21:46 -0500
From: Duke <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: interior
James,
There are a series of plastic tabs that hold the cover in place. Place
your
fingers between the glass and the cover and gently pull up and you won't
have
any problems (they do make a special tool for this but you don't need it).
It'll be even easier if you have the window down. Use this as a starting
point. I've done this on several 'D's and had mine off SEVERAL times and
its
nowhere close to needing replacing.
Hope this helps,
Duke
www.geocities.com/motorcity/8952/delorean.html
WtrResQ@xxxxxxx wrote:
> , "can any1 advise on the plactic clips that hold the
> panels on?" i dont kno how to take them off and ive heard that they will need
> to be replaced once they r removed. i dont want to mess it up so im asking
b4
> trying. any info wud be great, and oh, "can they be purchased, if they need
> to be replaced?" do i get them from one of the usual parts places or
> just go to a sereo shop???
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:13:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dave Price" <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: interior
>ok, i \ve now had my "D" for 2 months or so. i have this rattle in my
>pass.
>side door and i think its related to my pass. side window(it doesnt realy
>roll
>up quite right).
I've got a rattlin' in from the pass. door as well, however, I've pulled
the
interior off it and there didn't seem to be anything inside that could
cause such a noise, so I'm under the opinion that it's the door latch..
there is a front and a rear latch and if the door strikers aren't perfect,
one of the latches doesn't fully latch, and I believe that's what is
causing
my rattle... You may want to check that out...? You'll need a 17mm
deep socket to adjust the door striker...
>b4. my question is, "can any1 advise on the plactic clips that hold the
>panels on?" i dont kno how to take them off and ive heard that they will
>need
>to be replaced once they r removed. i dont want to mess it up so im
>asking b4
Well, those little pop-rivets will deteriorate after pulling and pushing
them
through the holes, however, I've pull most of mine out and re-fastened
them without any problems.. there may be some loss of grip, but it's not
noticable.. eventually you may want to get new ones, but they're fairly
reusable..
>trying. any info wud be great, and oh, "can they be purchased, if they
>need
>to be replaced?" do i get them from one of the usual parts places or
>just go
>to a sereo shop???
>
I'm pretty sure you can get 'em at the DMC parts places, but I don't know
if they're a standard item... Anyone?
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 19:48:43 EDT
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Wrecked D
On the idea of repairing a wrecked Delorean,BE Careful,unless you have a
parts
cars
by the time you finish repairing your wreck,you will have more than it's
worth
in parts
alone,I have four project deloreans on hand,and I repaired one delorean
with
front
end damage,had I not had most of the parts it would have cost more than
the
car was worth(It had frame,sus.damage,fiberglass damage. I had to replace
hood,drivers
fender,door,and rear quarter panel,which alone those parts are worth more
than
the
wrecked car.Between my parts cars and my projects I have taken deloreans
apart
to the last nut and bolt, so I should know what I am talking about.
CBL302
owner of VIN 000570
march 81 build
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 02:17:09 +0100
From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Engine Mods
Go to my website, and contact Simon Lees-Milne (it's on the "club
contacts"
page). He has had headers designed and made for his car, and duplicates
can
be made and fitted for 500 pounds (don't know about the units on their
own).
They really make a difference and it will be the first mod on my car
(when I
get it...:-)
Martin
http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk
TRENT BAILEY wrote:
> I am interested in adding headers and a cam to my car, does anyone have
> any information on this. I am also interested in buying a LeBra car bra
> for my car. I know they once made them but no longer do.
>
> Trent Bailey
> email: winger2@xxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 02:26:21 +0100
From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: interior
This may not be related to your problem, but it's a good snippet of info
anyway.
Here's a funny thing: There are two bolts in the engine compartment that
go
through the chassis, engine mounts and underbody. They are large and easy
to
tighten and are at the back (as you bend over) in the corners. I haven't
experienced it myself, but I'd like to paraphrase a conversation between
Stephen Wynne and Ian Titley at the Birmingham show:
IT: Would you mind giving my car the once-over?
SW: Not at all... (sticks head under hood, climbs under car - photo to be
found on my website :-) ... hmm, have you ever torqued up these bolts?
IT: No... never (in three years of owning the car)
SW: Do you get a rattle over your left shoulder?
IT: YES! (describes rattle, and failed attempts to locate it)
SW: Tighten those bolts - and the front ones for good measure - and it'll
disappear...
IT: Can't believe that will help...
SW: Trust me...
It did the trick... (sorry Steve if I didn't get that exactly right:-)
Give that a bash.
Best Wishes,
Martin
WtrResQ@xxxxxxx wrote:
> ok, i \ve now had my "D" for 2 months or so. i have this rattle in my
> pass.
> side door and i think its related to my pass. side window(it doesnt realy
> roll
> up quite right). the car only has 2000 miles on it so its hard to think
> that
(SNIP)
>
> thx again,
>
> james
> #0470
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 22:49:40 EDT
From: OLopez1@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Just bought one
I just bought a 1981 DeLorean VIN 6882 and it is in near perfect
condition.
The car runs absolutly perfect and I'm going to have a mechanic look over
it
to weed out any miscellaneous problems. I bought the car pretty far away
from
home and on the trip back I gave it a 300 mile shakedown and did notice a
few
little thigs. Before I get started it's an automatic, grey interior, with
only 14,000 miles most of the updates were done relays fuel pump etc it
however does not have the Fanzilla or the new radiator installed. The
little
things I noticed were reduced braking distance (mechanic says it's
proabably
due to crystalization in the brake discs and pads) BTW the mechanic also
owns
one so I'm in good company. While the AC is on (a must in Florida
especially
in Miami) I hear a relay fireing off about every 4 to 5 seconds, is that
normal? There is a slight exhaust problem which gives the car a unwanted
turbo like sound just not as nice. I also have that vibration mentioned in
previous posts and I'll let you all know how it worked for me. The epoxy
coating is coming off near the engien and I plan to remedy the situation
soon.
Even though the car does not have an overheating problem I will install
Fanzilla as a preventative measure along with a tuneup, oil change and
general
look over.
Any recomendations or comments are welcomed.
P.S. What should the voltmeter indicate when the car is stopped and when
you
accelarate. For me it reads 8V while stopped and about 13V when I press
the
accelarator. Also when the car is idle (not off) what shoud the
tachometer
read???
Thx
OL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 23:01:10 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Wrecked D
$2500 to repair it?? I don't think so... Many of the body panels are
expensive. He should price out the parts before he purchases the car.
If he plans on repairing the pannels he has, and painting the car, it
may be less expensive.
steve r wrote:
> monday. The price for the wrecked D is $2,500 and he hopes to be able
> to fix it for about $2,500 more. I was just hoping I could get some
> coments from others who have started with a wrecked D and fixed it.
>
------------------------------
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