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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Rear License Bezel
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: lifting car
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
From: "evm2k" <evm2k@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
6. Re: no start problem
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. Re: oterstat
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 00:03:16 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear License Bezel
There are 2 up for sale. You are in luck.
Item # 1830893807
and
Item # 1830514860
Later,
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Rear License Bezel
> Whats the auction number cause I can't find it.....
>
> Cheers
>
> Paul
> #6463
>
> --- Joseph Molino <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: >
> there is one on ebay being sold by Bob Miller.
> >
> > foxmul
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Digital Devices"
> > <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 4:26 PM
> > Subject: [DML] Rear License Bezel
> >
> >
> > > I REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY need one of these
> > rear license plate bezel
> > > frames ..
> > >
> > > the black piece that holds the plate on the rear
> > between the taillamps!
> > >
> > >
> > > if anybody has one or leads on one...
> > >
> > > please let me know
> > >
> > > i have tried grady and they tried housten... with
> > no avail... must have
> > > been misplaced in the move
> > >
> > > please email me directly
> > >
> > > ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > > thanks much
> > > Kenneth
> > > 05541
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > > moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
> > >
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >
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> >
> >
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 04:08:11 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
Christian - I rooted around in old message threads, and it sounds
like Walter Coe from Tampa had the same type of challenge. Perhaps
he would like to weigh in on what the solution was for his "clunk in
the turns"? I ran out of time looking through old messages. The
thread was called "drive axles thunking". As I recall, there was
quite a bit of information exchanged while Walt worked through his
noise.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I've been trying to figure out what my rear clunk sound is ever
since I bought my car. ... someone must have an answer. :)
>
> -Christian
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 04:29:06 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: lifting car
Adam - Yes, the jacking points on the underbody are the preferred
locations for using a car lift. Make sure that the little steel
reinforcement pads are in place before you apply lifting loads to the
jacking points. The underbody is the main source for torsional
stiffness for the DeLorean. The frame picks up suspension and engine
loads, but the underbody holds it all together. From my memory, the
car was originally supposed to have no frame - the concept was to use
the underbody as a fully monocoque structure. However, the right
technology wasn't ready in time, so a frame was designed at the last
moment. The technology for this is now called "resin transfer
molding", and is only now at a point where it can be used
extensively. John DeLorean was well ahead of his time in many
respects.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
(How did I do, Dave S.? :))
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> What is the proper way to put the car on a lift? Should it be
lifted
> using the four jack points by the wheels? Why are these jack points
> so far from the frame and what makes them strong enough this?
>
> Thanks,
> Adam
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 04:31:47 -0000
From: "evm2k" <evm2k@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
Christian:
I once had that happened to me when about 35 years ago on my old 72
Pinto. Something to check is all of your springs to see if any of
them have broke. The front coil spring broke on Pinto and would make
this loud clunking noise everytime I turned or went over a bump. The
spring didn't fall out because the shock absorber was in the middle
of it. But look in the suspension area especially up at the very top
of the spring. Also check the shocks to make sure that the nuts on
top haven't come loose. Another item to check is to see if a rubber
bushing at the top of the rear springs is missing. You should have
one for each side.
Good luck
Richard Lew
Danville, California
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I've been trying to figure out what my rear clunk sound is ever
since I
> bought my car. This year, I had the rear axles serviced, complete
with new
> cv boots and grease. Pushing the axles back and forth makes no
clunk. I
> also just had the famous Toby Bolts installed. My old TABs weren't
bent at
> all and actually looked like they were in pretty good shape. The
new bolts
> put my mind to rest a little better.
>
> But still I have the clunk. It hasn't changed at all over the past 2
> years, so although it's not getting worse, none of what I've done
has made
> it even marginally better.
>
> The way my clunk works is that if turn right twice, I'll only hear
it the
> first time. Then when I go back to the left it'll come back. This
even
> happens at extremely slow speeds, usually when the car's weight is
shifted
> (speed bumps, driveway enterances).
>
> I remember someone mentioning that clunking might be fixed by
tightening
> body bolts, but was unable to find the message in the archives.
Where are
> these bolts?
>
> Does anyone else have any suggestions? I'm sure that as common as
this
> problem is, someone must have an answer. :)
>
> -Christian
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 00:57:30 EDT
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal
Well all i can say is that my first attempt stripped the holes in the
steering wheel, so i drilled and retaped and it came off, but hey this is
not
the first time something I was trying to repair on my "D" did not go as
planned. I am now repairing rusted supports on my frame, but hey that is
another story......
John
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 01:28:05 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: no start problem
Matthew, I didn't see where you said hot or cold and you have two
different
circuits.
If it's the cold, then the TTS switch or a wire maby be loose causing the
cold start not to fire off, If it's hot, then the accumulator needs
replacing. The only other thing normally could also but not likley the air
flow meter is adjusted to lean.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< Alright. Let's see who can figure this one out.
My car will turn over but not start. When I turn the key, I can hear the
fuel
pump energize and pump for a second or two. If I shoot some starting
fluid or
pour some gas down the intake, she fires up immediately and will run for
a
short
period of time until the gas is used up. Any ideas?
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 22:29:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: oterstat
Hank,
I just replaced mine a couple weeks ago. It doesn't look like there's any
good way to do a quick swap. After getting the otterstat out, you have to
remove the rubber seal, then put the new seal in, then put the new
otterstat in. The entire cooling system won't drain, only from the engine
to the otterstat, which isn't much. After the drainage stopped, I put the
new parts in, and had to use half a bottle or so of coolant and some
water. I have Joe's self-bleeding kit installed, so that eliminates the
process of getting the air out of the system.
Replacing the otterstat is one of the easier jobs to do.
-Christian
On Tue, 21 May 2002, Hank Eskin wrote:
>
> Hello Joe,
>
> I just bought a replacement oterstat and fanzilla from your site. I
have
> one question: What's the easiest way to replace the oterstat? I don't
want
> to drain/refill the entire cooling system - can it be swapped "quickly"?
> Any tips?
>
>
> thanks,
>
> -Hank
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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>
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>
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>
>
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