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There are 6 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: "Engine Number" location
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
2. PNDC Tech Day/Auto Trans Problem
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom@xxxxxxx>
3. Rear Sway Bar Installation
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: "Engine Number" location
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
5. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: DeLorean Mid Alantic Spring Social
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:44:26 -0000
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Engine Number" location
Are we talking about the same number here?
The description sounds more like the cat production number...
As far as I can remember, the engine number is stamped into the
aluminum engine block at the drivers side. I looked for it last year
and found it. It may be hard to read because of the
aluminum "corrosion" of wear and heat. But it's there. I think I
remember it to be close to the oil stick. Use a flashlight when
looking for it.
Look closely and you'll find it, a genuine Renault number.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 00:53:05 -0000
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom@xxxxxxx>
Subject: PNDC Tech Day/Auto Trans Problem
Hello Group!
First of all, I need to give special thanks to all the PNDC members
that were at the Tech Day on Saturday...a guy couldn't ask for a
better bunch of people to get help from.
Unfortunately, I ran into a problem on the way home. About 40 miles
from town, the transmission went out. No clunk, no fluid loss, just
seemingly no transmission. There was no Drive, Reverse or Low Gears.
Thankfully my AAA is paid up.
Anyone with auto trans ever have this problem? I had the car towed to
my mechanic, who will be looking into in a few days. Any advice I can
pass his way will be greatly appreciated.
On a related topic: Has anyone done a tranmission conversion to a
different auto transmission by the "ZF Company"?
Nick
VIN 3092
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 01:12:52 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear Sway Bar Installation
Hello List - I wanted to let you know that I posted some pictures of
my rear sway bar installation to the "Techie Stuff" folder in the
Photo section.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst?.dir=/Techie+Stuff&.s
rc=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmc
news/lst%3f%26.dir=/%26.src=gr%26.view=t
There are three pictures - a close up of the attachment to the
trailing arm, a view of the bar on the right side, and an overall view
of the entire bar (created from two separate photos that were
stitched together - Thanks Shiraz Cupala!). You will notice an unused
angle bracket above the attachment point. That spot didn't work, and
neither did the attachment strategy. The current installation works
very well, except that the rubber bushings are distorted due to the
angle. I'm working on a plan to correct that. You will also notice
that I haven't detailed the bottom of my car (sorry about that).
Pictures of the front lower control arm links are forthcoming. I will
be adding some structural reinforcement to the frame cross member, and
the bar will be repositioned about 1 inch forward from where it is
now. That will be done in the next month or so.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:17:44 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: "Engine Number" location
In a message dated 4/28/02 11:37:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
genghis@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Can't seem to find it. >>
There is a picture of the id tag on the prtoject vixen site.
http://www.projectvixen.com/week24.htm
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:40:59 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
Hi All,
I've made a bit of headway with my idling problem. Berryman's ChemTool
B-12 has helped to smooth things out a bit, as well as replacing the
o-ring seal under the fuel distributor and adjusting the idle mixture.
I've got a new problem though now, of course. It seems that once the
car has been idling/running for about 2-3 hours, any attempt at
acceleration is met with at best a "bogging" condition, and at worst, a
stall. This has happened every time I have ran the car for a while in
the last few weeks. Now with the luxury of a fuel pressure gauge, I can
see that when this situation occurs, the following conditions are true:
- The fuel pressure (not control pressure, but system pressure) dips to
between 3 and 3.5 bar, and fluctuates heavily. (Test done with pump
jumpered at RPM relay, engine off)
- Control pressure remains at around 3.5 bar, with slight fluctuation.
- Rest pressure starts at 3 bar, dropping to around 2 bar in 2 minutes,
and sinks to zero in about 30 seconds thereafter.
- Car will restart easily, but dies after a few seconds.
- Fuel temperature is very warm.
It would help to have a comparison, eh? 'Nuff said. With the engine
running for only 5-10 minutes (warmed up from a cold start), I can turn
it off and find the following:
- The fuel pressure (not control pressure, but system pressure) steady
at 4.9 bar. (Test done with pump jumpered at RPM relay, engine off)
- Control pressure remains steady at around 3.5 bar.
- Rest pressure stays above 3 bar for about 15 minutes or longer.
- Car will restart easily and stay running.
- Fuel cold.
I believe the warmed-up from cold start figures all fall within specs.
(By the way, I installed a spring in the suction tube last week, so I
can rule out the tube collapsing when warm).
With these facts in mind, I'm leaning away from a leaky injector (rest
pressure would drop faster initially then slower later, right?), and a
bad accumulator (rest pressure is great when cold). According to my
figurin', that leaves four possibile causes to the problem:
1) The pressure regulator in the fuel distributor failing only when hot
(not likely)
2) A fuel filter building back pressure only when hot (never even heard
of that one).
3) An accumulator failing only when hot (but that's in the return line,
isn't it? Would it affect running system pressure?)
4) A fuel pump (or fuel pump check valve) failing only when hot. (It's
a new late-style pump from DMC Houston).
Any thoughts out there as to what might be the issue here? I think I
have a good grasp of the effects now, but I'm still stumbling on the
cause.
In other news... I'll be heading to Long Island this Friday night /
Saturday to visit PJ Grady and pick up my new undented passenger door
and a few other miscellaneous pieces and parts. Hopefully both doors
and the front end will be fully installed by the weekend of May 11th. I
may as well leave her rear panels off until I get the engine in
top-notch running condition. It has -got- to be easier to work on that
engine without the fascia and quarters in the way. With time running
out before Memphis, I'll take all the small luxuries I can get!
I just have to wonder about my sanity though, when after this weekend, I
will have travelled over 8,000 miles gathering parts for a car with only
1721.4 miles on it.
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05027
http://www.projectvixen.com
(Recently updated to Week 130, many new photos added!)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:59:11 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DeLorean Mid Alantic Spring Social
Hmm...let's do the math here....
19 Stainless steel cars parked in a "Circle"
1 sunny day
= Double reflection and sunburn!
;) I got burned also...kinda funny.
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew P. Olans [mailto:mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] DeLorean Mid Alantic Spring Social
Hi Everyone,
Just returned safe and sound from the Spring Social in New Jersey.
Funny, I live in Arizona but I only get sunburned badly when I go to NJ.
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