[DML] Digest Number 563
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[DML] Digest Number 563



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There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. engine light
           From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box 
           From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
      3. feul problem
           From: Meyerleem@xxxxxx
      4. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)
           From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
      5. RE: painting louver
           From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie@xxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)
           From: jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
      7. Re: feul problem
           From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
      8. Re: Re: Numbers on Engine.
           From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
      9. Re: Brake/stop light wiring variations
           From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
     10. Re: Flowmaster Exhaust on a DMC?
           From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
     11. posting question
           From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 00:21:48 
   From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: engine light

I Noticed that the lense on the engine compartment light is missing in my 
delorean. Does anyone know where I could get just the lense? Is it an 
interchangeable part with another car? Or, Does anyone have a good used
one? 
Thanks!

                         Ryan- vin.#16301

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 2
   Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 20:33:33 EDT
   From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box 

In a message dated 5/30/01 5:58:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx

writes:

> My idea of the stainless air box is two fold:
> First, a stainless top to the engine would look really cool.  But
secondly,
> making an entirely new filter box that will house a K&N filter without
> adapters makes it all worth while.  Making just a new top half while
> 

I'm interested in this too.  Last year I discussed it with Dirk Wacker (I 
gave his link on a prior e-mail) and he said he could do one, if he had
one 
on hand for reference.  (Not a cheapie project, though.) I haven't got
time 
to pursue this personally... just passing it along.  The OEM filter box is

pretty ugly.  I'd love to replace mine with something decent looking. A
car 
at Eurofest in the People's Choice competition had a K&N breather on it.  
Looked stock, complete with K&N logo.  Not real huge... about the size of
a 
large soup can.  Of course, it eliminated the heat stove, outside air
intake 
etc.  I don't know the overall impact of that design change.  James Espey
can 
probably give you the name of the owner... it was red.

Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
   Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 21:01:13 EDT
   From: Meyerleem@xxxxxx
Subject: feul problem

My car was running rough just like just like described in the rough
running 
posts. The fuel pump was changed last fall as was the fuel filter. It just

recently stalled on me and is not getting any gas. There is power to the
pump 
and I can here it when I turn the the key, but no fuel is pumped. I
removed 
the line going to the fuel filter and there is nothing pumped even that
far. 
Help    
                                                            Lee
                                                            VIN# 1699  



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Message: 4
   Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 01:35:56 -0000
   From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)

Just an FYI, Rob sells a Plastic replacement air intake hose that 
will replace that shutter-air inlet.  

<SNIP>
I would probably also consider
> making a whole new air intake system that would replace the 
restrictive
> 'shutter-air inlet' (part #105952).  It would be a lot of trouble, 
and I
> would probably never sell more than a dozen or so of them.  But I 
like to do
> this sort of thing just for the fun of it.
<Snip>





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Message: 5
   Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 18:30:40 -0700
   From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: painting louver

Dear Walt
Took your advice and this past week went shopping for a good shoe polish
for
my luuvers.  I found a perfect match, can't remember the product name or
number, but at least two problems have since occurred.  One, when I walk
on
the loovers, foot prints develop.  Two, when I sat on the luuvers, I got
shoe polish on the seat of my white pants.  Even if I merely rub my
forehead
across the luvers, I get shoe polish on my face.  All of this leads me to
believe that this is not really a good idea.  Could you possible come up
with some other hair brained idea that I might try?
Arnie

-----Original Message-----
From: Walter [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 12:06 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] painting louver


*****  Moderator's Note
As with any automotive refinishing project, proper surface
preparation and the correct tools are an important part of
success.  Consult with an autobody specialist before attempting
any large-surface restoration for the proper techniques and tools.
*****

Every repainted louver I have seen didn't look good.  I think the problem
starts from painting over Armor-all with the 'fish eye' effect coming
through.  Another mistake I have seen is people using a gloss paint.
Gloss
paint makes imperfections show up all the more.  Sanding before you start
makes it worse.  The better sanded areas are more gloss and look uneven.
I
think the only way to get a good paint job on a greasy louver is to
totally
sand everything down, use a textured primer to match the original texture
and then cover it with a flat black top coat.  Maybe you could remove the
grease by spraying it down with a few cans of disc brake cleaner or engine
degreaser.

Instead of paint, maybe you could looking into finding a good oil based
ink
or dye that is weather proof.  I used a laundry marker with great success
to
touch up small areas on my louvers.  Maybe something like what is used in
a
laundry marker or a black leather dye would work.  If your louver is
already
saturated with Armor-all, then maybe fight fire with fire and give it a
good
rub down with black shoe polish.  Ha!  Don't knock it.  It just might beat
painting it.

Walt    Tampa, FL



Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






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Message: 6
   Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 02:07:26 -0000
   From: jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel air filter box (was Stainless Steel Facias)

I would suggest staying with the more traditional style. It could 
maybe you some adjustments but I would prefer classic over complete 
redesign.

Jeremy



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:

> 
> Should the unit look substantially like the OEM as a compliment to 
the
> aftermarket stainless header bottles?  Or should it be a totally 
different
> design using an entirely different configuration K&N filter (i.e. 
round or
> cup shape vs. OEM flat rectangle)?  I think sticking closest to OEM
> configuration will be more popular.  Comments anyone?
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL
> 




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Message: 7
   Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 02:38:49 -0000
   From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: feul problem

Have you checked your RPM relay? This is what supplies the power to 
your fuel pump.

Steve

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Meyerleem@xxxx wrote:
> My car was running rough just like just like described in the rough 
running 
> posts. The fuel pump was changed last fall as was the fuel filter. 
It just 
> recently stalled on me and is not getting any gas. There is power 
to the pump 
> and I can here it when I turn the the key, but no fuel is pumped. I 
removed 
> the line going to the fuel filter and there is nothing pumped even 
that far. 
> Help    
>                                                             Lee
>                                                             VIN# 
1699




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Message: 8
   Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:05:09 -0400
   From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Numbers on Engine.

The DeLorean PRV-6, engine, model number 498675, was manufactured by
Societe Franco-Suedoise de Moteurs in Douvrain France. The engine
manufacturing plant was a joint venture of Puegot, Renault, and Volvo.
Renault was mostly responsible for the block, Volvo supplied cylinder
heads and pistons. I have no information on Peugeot's involvement. The
Volvo version of this engine, labeled B-28F was already certified for use
in the USA and was finally chosen for use in the DeLorean. Volvo used this
engine for their luxury model 260 and later 760 GLE sedans; this version
of the PRV accounted for 98% of all PRV's. Therefore the designation as a
"Volvo" engine in the DeLorean is the most widely accepted.

Additionally, whenever refereeing to this engine, most knowledgeable
engine mechanic's will recognize this engine as a Volvo engine

DMC Joe
     
"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com";> DeLorean services.com

DMC.tv is in your future.....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: senatorpack@xxxxxx 
  To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 5:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Numbers on Engine.


  In a message dated 05/30/2001 12:14:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
  srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

  << in. Since Delorean did not make the engine and Volvo did, it's 
   Volvo's numbering scheme. All car manufactures have engine numbers 
   stamped/welded onto the blocks of the engine. 
   
   Steve >>

  Renault manufactured the engine in the DeLorean. DeLorean Motor had a 
  contract with Renault not Volvo...even though Volvo demanded a 300,000 
  Sterling as a "technical entrance fee."





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
   Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:40:42 -0400
   From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake/stop light wiring variations

Walt,

I don't have the vin breakout number but there was a change in the brake
light circuit. One version uses a separate circuit which uses fuse #18
which is hot at all times. The more common version is part of circuit
(fuse) #4 and is wired to the accessory relay.

DMC Joe

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com";> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Walter 
  To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 4:17 PM
  Subject: [DML] Brake/stop light wiring variations


  I have noticed two wiring variations on DeLorean stop lights and am
  wondering if anyone can say what this is about.

  On my car VIN 3633, the stop light circuit is always hot meaning that
even
  though the ignition is switched off, the stop lights still come on when
I
  press the brake pedal.

  On Randy's car VIN 3228, the stop light circuit is only hot when the
  ignition is switched on.  If you are sitting in the car with the key
removed
  from the ignition and press the brake pedal then the stop lights won't
  operate.

  Can anyone say which variation is the norm on DeLoreans?  Is it likely
that
  both cars left the factory in this configuration or was one of the cars
  modified?

  Walt    Tampa, FL







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
   Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:32:10 -0400
   From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flowmaster Exhaust on a DMC?

Whenever thinking about replacing the DeLorean muffler keep in mind that
the factory installed muffler is all stainless steel which means you will
never have to replace it.

Additionally the stock muffler is not the restrictive portion of the
exhaust system it is the crossover connection located just behind the left
hand exhaust header.

DMC Joe
  
"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com";> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: s_spartz@xxxxxxxxxxx 
  To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 5:02 PM
  Subject: [DML] Flowmaster Exhaust on a DMC?



  If you want to have more power or even a better sounding exhaust, why 
  not go with a different muffler.

  That same thought said hey!, if a "normal" oval type muffler will fit 
  what about a flowmaster?

  Have any of you seen one put in or know of it.

  Thanks
  Steve
  no vin yet
  SOMEDAY!!!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
   Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:57:31 +0200
   From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: posting question

I would very much appreciate information on Delorean upgrade and
performance parts and where to get them. I am very interested to find out
if anyone knows about a performance exhaust system to give the car a
better note and if there is'nt one, what might be good muffler/silencers
to use? Also about blackout headlight covers. 

Thanks, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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