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There are 8 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. need help wiht part
From: efren hicks <marty_mcflyJr@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
4. Different fasica colors / hard starting after driving
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
5. Re: shipping engine
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Non-starting problems, fuel pressure related?
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
8. Frame Repair
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 14:45:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: efren hicks <marty_mcflyJr@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: need help wiht part
does any one know where i can get a used master
cylinder, or buy one (not from any delorean place)
like kragen or something please email me privately.
efren
16072
ps
also on bob brandys cars (97 time machine)
wicth part of the window rolls down?
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 18:29:19 EDT
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
Bruce,
I have a Jan 82 Vin # 1596 and mine had the clock in the radio.
Evidently
Dec was the change over month.
Bill #1596
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 19:17:40 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
In a message dated 04/29/2000 5:58:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
billschaferabn@xxxxxxx writes:
<< Bruce,
I have a Jan 82 Vin # 1596 and mine had the clock in the radio.
Evidently
DEC was the change over month.
Bill #1596 >>
Bill something is wrong with the info above, I think? I have VIN #1606
and
it was built in June 1981 and you have #1596 built six months later??
Ralph
VIN #1606
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 20:40:29 EDT
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: Different fasica colors / hard starting after driving
Hankand Cliff,
I maybe wrong on this ( and yes please anyone correct me) but there was a
change in the paint code #s. This may explain why some are darker and some
are lighter. I just had my front repainted and with the new code it turned
out light (matches the rear). Also the way the paint is applied ( thanks
for
the help Ken) has a lot to do with how dark the color comes out. Anyone
else
want to give this one a try?
I have had this problem only when it is very hot outside. Car will start
fine, drive for about an hour, then sit for 30 min and will turn over but
will not start. (yes you can hear the fuel pump running each time) The
solution I have found is a can of starter fluid that I use sparingly.
Used
the can only 3 times all last summer. Yes I think the fuel accumlator is
slowly going south, but that will wait until after Cleveland.
Hope this info helps.
Bruce Battles
Vin# 6569
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 19:56:35 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: shipping engine
I had an engine shipped from Cal to Il for about $60. I have also shipped
an engine
to NJ for $80.
the trick is to have the pallet and steel banding to hold the engine on.
Various
freight services will handle
the engine but you have to bring it to them. If you have a truck and
engine hoist
this is easy. If you don'T try to get a friend with a truck to let you
use it.
Bob
>
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 20:27:39 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Non-starting problems, fuel pressure related?
First off, do you have any of the manuals for the DeLorean? Please
understand that I'm not saying this to make light of your expertise but,
even though the K-Jetronic fuel injection is relatively simple compared to
computerized new cars, you do need some understanding of how the system
works before you can begin to trouble shoot it. The round thing you refer
to
is not the accumulator and has no bearing on fuel pressure. It's simply a
mechanical device that connects incoming air flow to a valve in the fuel
distributor. When air forces it down the valve opens in an amount
corresponding with the amount of air flow and sends fuel to the injectors.
If your accumulator is bad the engine won't retain residual fuel pressure
when shut down. It will need the fuel pump to build that pressure back.
The
problem with that is if the engine doesn't start with-in a few seconds of
cranking, the RPM relay turns the pump off. This prevents flooding in an
engine that has all systems functioning. If you need to get the pressure
back up you should crank for 5 or 10 seconds, turn the key off, and then
crank again for 5 or 10 seconds, continuing this until pressure gets high
enough to start the engine. A really bad accumulator probably will never
get
the fuel pressure high enough. Another trick is to unplug the blue
connection from the cold start valve and the grey connection from the
control pressure regulator. Plug the grey plug onto the cold start valve.
This will cause the cold start valve to open and allow some fuel into the
engine even with low pressure. You must unplug this as soon as the engine
starts or you will flood it. If this last trick starts your warm engine
when
normal starting procedure fails, you either have a bad accumulator or a
bad
check valve in the fuel pump.
Bruce Benson
> My D' wont start, i put the key in and it turns over
> but wont start
>
> I have been threw all the checks in and around the
> fuel pump, i have rotated it, jumped it, remounted
> it.. etc, No problems there.. >
> The next step which i performed today was going back
> to the engine and taking off the air filter and
> pressing down on the round thing (fuel accumlator?) to
> see if there was pressure.
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 21:03:29 EDT
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
Bruce,
Its really 11596 but I usually leave off the extra 1. But my door panel
says Jan of 1982. So I know mine was built after yours. Thanks for the
come
back on it. I will start adding the extra 1.
Bill
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 21:12:05 EDT
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Frame Repair
egroup,
I need some advice and help on how to best repair my frame. I took my D
in
yesterday for brake work and found out I have rust through on both the
front
and rear frame parts.
The frame has rusted underneath the paint and in the back part it looks
like a small water leak in the engine area really helped thing race along.
Can small areas the size of a egg be cut again and new pieces welded in
?
What are the options to fix this short of the $7,000.00 new stainless
Steel
frame. HELP!
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