[DML] Digest Number 1844
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[DML] Digest Number 1844
- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 22 Jan 2004 15:38:46 -0000
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Long Island - New York DeLorean Motor Club
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
2. My D on the Radio
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
3. DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: idle speed regulator
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Delorean Manuals
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Mode switch vacuum hose routing?
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: The DOA, DW, & more
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Delorean Manuals
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: newbie says hi
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Re: The Latest Issue of DW from DOA
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: '82 VINs moved to '83s?
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Delorean Manuals
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: newbie says hi
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: CIS, abbreviation for what? (Was: Re: idle speed regulator)
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean@xxxxxxx>
15. New Photos! BTTF-3 DeLorean
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Delorean at Toyota Dealership in Dallas
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: '82 VINs moved to '83s?
From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
18. random funny
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: THREE SUBJETS RUST SPOTS AND SHIFTER BOOT AND MANUAL SHIFTER FIXED
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
20. RE: DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Smoky shadows Pigeon Forge
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
23. Missing Vacuum hose
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
24. CIS, abbreviation for what? (Was: Re: idle speed regulator)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:59:41 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Long Island - New York DeLorean Motor Club
There is already a club for the area. Delorean Mid Atlantic.
The club is always looking for help coordinating new events or socials.
If you would like to organize a club event in your area, let us know!
-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx [mailto:doctorDHD@xxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] Long Island - New York DeLorean Motor Club
Dear Fellow DeLorean Enthusiast,
I am interested in starting a local Delorean club for the Long Island
and New York area.
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 22:27:22 EST
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: My D on the Radio
Yesterday WEBN Station in Cincinnati was talking about the upcoming Cavalcade
of Customs Car Show.
The DJ started to talk about the cool cars and then he began to talk about
last years show and the DeLorean he saw there. He talked about the BTTF
connection and said it was one of the cool cars there.
It was my D he was talking about.
I guess all we needed was faded asphalt.
Anyway I got my 2 seconds of radio fame LOL
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 19:35:17 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
Adjusted my driver door today and both doors work great on their own. However, I've had this problem for as long as I can remember. Driver door only locks the pax. door from inside or outside but will NOT UNLOCK THE PAX. DOOR at the same time. I can see the solenoids, both are working and getting power and the switch is touching on the wiper arm for both door contacts. The pax. door unlocks and locks the driver door great, so what gives? One would think they run on the same circuits.
I thought I paid to have door lock module rebuilt last year, but it seems maybe that is the problem, or maybe it was not done, I can't remember?
Will the LOCKZILLA correct this?
Eventually I want to install the launchers and the whole nine yards so I want to get it right.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:47:10 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: idle speed regulator
Henrik, A good explanation is in the Technical Manuel.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: dmc12hank [mailto:henrik@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] idle speed regulator
Hi everybody!
I have had my car for 3 years now, I realized this summer that the
idle speed regulator is disconnected.
Is this bad?
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 04:28:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Manuals
Your DeLorean Workshop Manual (the "Tech Manual") is one of the best
resources available (not perfect by a long shot, but very very useful
nonetheless). I would supplement it with contemporary Volvo issued
B28, CI, and CIS factory literature (in English, vs Renault and Peugot
in French), and the Bosch K-Jetronic manual. A DeLorean parts manual
is somewhat useful as well.
Haynes, Chilton, and the like are what I affectionately refer to as
"reverse of procedure" manuals -- disassembly instructions are often
cryptic at best, followed by the ever helpful phrase "reinstallation
is reverse of this procedure."
Those manuals cover way too much ground in too few pages. For example,
I have a single Haynes manual that superficially covers ALL Lincoln
models built between the years of 1970-1996. Compare that to my 1977
or 1978 Ford manual sets (5 books each year), or even better the
Electrical/Vacuum manual that covers 1978 Lincoln Mark V's exclusively
(in stunning detail -- Ford outdid themselves with that one!).
Even though AMC was essentially building only one car by the 1980's,
my 1981 AMC factory manual is 3,000 pages long (2.5 inches thick).
Compare that to my Haynes AMC manual at less than 300 pages (.75
inches thick).
The worst part of Haynes and Chilton manuals is the massive amount of
boilerplate text and illustrations -- generic descriptions of
"typical" repair procedures. You will often find that the actual part
before you looks nothing at all like the one pictured!
Armed with the Workshop Manual and a basic understanding of automotive
repair, restoring and maintaining a DeLorean is surprisingly easy to
understand.
Actually accessing some of its nuts & bolts is a different issue
altogether...
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 04:46:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mode switch vacuum hose routing?
Don't forget the electrical connections, wire colors of which are
unfortunately MISSING from its chart:
Top to bottom:
Green/White (power in)
Red and Pink/Orange (A/C compressor out)
Green (blower motor out)
Bill Robertson
#5939
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxx>
wrote:
> > Does anyone on the list know of the correct vaccuum hose routing for
> > the hoses for the Mode switch. (which color goes where etc.)
> >
> > Thanks
> > Michael
> > 2944
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:13:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The DOA, DW, & more
I think YOU'RE forgetting the initial intent of the DeLorean car Randy :-). The end advertizing scheme of the DeLorean being the car for "the bachelor who's made it!" really had nothing to do with what John originally intended for the car. Remember just a few short years before it FINALLY rolled off the assembly line, the car was supposed to cost $12k (thus the DMC-12 name), and that put it in a cheaper price bracket than even the Corvette. It was supposed to be an all American "ethical" (ie- affordable, long lasting, etc.) sports car. By the time the DeLorean finally emerged, it cost nearly DOUBLE of what a Corvette did, and many dealers were listing the car at prices close to TRIPLE that initial target price of $12k. I don't think it's because John wanted to purposefully move the car upmarket, but instead because he was forced to by fluctuations in the dollar and pound, rising development, production, and labor costs, lack of funds from backers pulling out etc etc etc. John just got hit from every possible side and the only way to get people to buy his car, and continue investing in the company was to tout the car as an exclusive experience. What the heck else were they going to do? The car didn't outperform any other car in it's "class," (I still argue the car is really in a class of it's own because it's so unique it just can't be lumped together with other cars) and even cars in lower classes could outperform it in almost every faction barring sex appeal. Even Motor Trend disputed that.
All of this aside, I think you're misinterpreting my opinion of the DOA, and don't want anyone to think I'm denouncing their relevancy. I completely and totally agree with them on many issues. I'm so glad they're out there as a conservative force urging owners to think of their cars as classics and to keep them original as possible. I don't know where the DeLorean marque would be today without the DOA either. There were dark periods in the '80s when the DOA was the only support structure out there for owners. That said I feel like many others that it's unfortunate that the DOA choses to ignore the reality of current DeLorean owners. $72 for four flimsy magazines with underwhelming content is just craziness. Maybe they have foresight though... maybe the car will once again be a playtoy for the upper crust, and they can say to all of us "I told you so!" But at this moment in time the I just don't feel the DOA represents the masses.
Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
--- "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I've read many negative comments over the past few years on the mailing list and abroad about the DOA. I have been a member myself for 10 years +, and have no intention of leaving, as many have done.
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 23:24:17 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Delorean Manuals
Kramer, There is also a Parts Manuel, Technical Manuel and Laminated wiring
diagram and last an update Manuel.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Kramer [mailto:jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 12:17 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Delorean Manuals
Dear List,
I am currently reading a book where a woman is restoring an old
corvette and she is using a Haynes Automotive repair manual. I was
wondering if there was anything like that for the DMC?
I have the Delorean Workshop Manual. But did any other company come
out with something like the Haynes?
Just curious,
Kramer
~10610
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:29:50 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: newbie says hi
Try a complete tuneup( including replacing injectors) and/or replacing CPR.
----- Original Message -----
From: "bricki66" <Bricki@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 4:23 PM
Subject: [DML] newbie says hi
> By the way: The engine starts by only "showing" it the key, but when
> it's cold, I've to open the throttle a little bit for nearly a
> minute. Otherwise the engine dies in idle mode. When it's a little
> bit warmer after a minute, it's not a problem. Any idea?
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:40:23 -0800
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: The Latest Issue of DW from DOA
It's interesting that Shannon referred to the shift of the DeLorean
community "from an esoteric club to a more accepting/open one" and called it
the "Faded Asphalt Society".
There have been negative references to those of us who enjoy sharing our
DeLoreans and DeLorean experiences with others at shows such as the DeLorean
Car Show - while parked on "Faded Asphalt".
A few days ago Ken had me add a "Faded Asphalt Society" T-Shirt to the DCS
Store. To see it, just go to http://memorabilia.DeloreanCarShow.com.
Gary
IN2TIME
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 16:27:42 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '82 VINs moved to '83s?
You know, it's refreshing to read that someone who is looking for a
Delorean has taken the time to try and understand them. I can't tell
you how many people have told me, after seeing my car, "I really want
to buy one of these", when they may not know what they are saying.
There's a lot to learn about these vehicles and I'm glad that you,
Tom, have at least an understanding of the history.
Johnny
5518
If you ever get the chance to take a VIN plate off for whatever
reason, there should be holes underneath where the rivets would have
went, if the old VINS were actual from 82.
All this, and I dont even own a DeLorean. But its coming soon...
Tom Porter
Maine, USA
(Please correct me if I am wrong...)
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 16:50:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Manuals
There are no "3rd party" type manuals. Here is a list of some of the
books/manuals you CAN get:
Owner's manual in the valet pack with warranty info
Workshop Manual
Parts manual
Technical manual (origionally meant for the dealer mechanics)
Flat rate manual (meant for warranty repair)
Bosch has several different manuals available on the fuel and ignition
systems
Classic Motorbooks has an excellant book on Bosch fuel systems by
Robert Probst, try classicbooks.com
If you are new to the world of automotive mechanics there are many
texts available but non specific to Deloreans. The Delorean lituriture
assumes a general working knowledge. For instance to get the info on
the full procedure to adjust a door torsion bar the definative article
appeared in an early Delorean World Magazine. Many procedures have
been archived at DMCNEWS.COM You must also be aware that there are
some errors in both the Workshop Manual AND the Parts Manual. A biggie
is the picture of the Final Drive. If you were to reassemble it as per
the picture you would get 5 speeds in reverse!!!!!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
>
> > Dear List,
> > I am currently reading a book where a woman is restoring an old
> > corvette and she is using a Haynes Automotive repair manual. I was
> > wondering if there was anything like that for the DMC?
> > Just curious,
> > Kramer
> > ~10610
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:00:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: newbie says hi
If it doesn't run well when cold it sounds like the idle motor system
isn't compensating for the cold. Make sure the idle motor is working
and then you may have to check the idle thermistor to make sure it is
telling the ECU that the motor is cold. When starting cold you are
supposed to depress the throttle 1/4 of the way down until it starts.
After that you should be able to remove your foot as the motor warms up.
Join the DoD at dmcnews.com and then you can look up your vin #
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "bricki66" <Bricki@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'd like to say "hi" to everyone of you guys. I'm a new, proud and
> for the first time owner of a DMC-12, VIN #4834.
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 20:36:20 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: CIS, abbreviation for what? (Was: Re: idle speed regulator)
On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:23:30 -0000, Bill Robertson wrote:
> CIS (Constant Idle Speed) system has been covered before
> (this is a very good engine to search the archives):
> http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
Could be me, but I thought CIS was for
Constant Injection System
as the system injects fuel, no matter whether the intake
valves are open or not... It's been explained to me that
that's the reason for the oddly shaped "crab"-like intake
manifold; the longer tubes are supposed to "store" the
injected fuel in the time the valves are closed...
But no argument on the idle-explanation ;-)
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 20:10:20 -0000
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Photos! BTTF-3 DeLorean
Hey,
Finally had time to scan in some pictures I took while in Hawaii a
few weeks back.
This is the "Time Machine" from BTTF 3. It is in the Planet
Hollywood (Waikiki beach, if I remember correctly).
No, the photos are NOT upside-down.. The car is suspended from the
ceiling!
Enjoy,
Marc
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 20:46:52 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean at Toyota Dealership in Dallas
Sorry, Jerry, "old age" interferes with memory. I only remember it was
Datsun & the DMC was sitting on the show room floor. I only remember that
Chick Norton Buick is where my D came from in Tulsa. Drive Stainless
Robert VIN 6924
From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [DML] Delorean at Toyota Dealership in Dallas
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:23:16 -0600
Robert, Who was the dealer that had the 82 model.
Since I live here in oklahoma city thought I might check on it for the
list..
Jerry
Vin# 4890
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 15:39:18 EST
From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: '82 VINs moved to '83s?
http://www.home.no/delorean/dmcinc.htm
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:50:48 -0500
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: random funny
I was sent this today, and I just laughed. Yes, it's a bad photoshop
job; it's supposed to be. =)
http://images.somethingawful.com/mjolnir/images/cg01202004/TheNinjaScotsman.jpg
For all you Lord of the Rings fans. =)
--noah
#2867
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 23:01:08 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: THREE SUBJETS RUST SPOTS AND SHIFTER BOOT AND MANUAL SHIFTER FIXED
John - I got some feedback from my metallurgist regarding this
question ... you're going to love the answers. There are basically
three chemical methods for removing residual iron in 304 CRES.
Method 1 - Nitric acid solution of 3 ounces nitric acid in 1 liter of
water. With rubber gloves, apply the solution to the areas where the
iron particles are, using a sponge. Take care not to damage any
surrounding parts with the acid solution. After rinse, neutralize
with a baking soda bath. Rinse again, very thoroughly. (This method
is not for the faint of heart). Method 2 - Use modeling clay to form
a dam around the affected areas, about 1 inch high. Cover entire
area inside the dam with Coca Cola (Classic would be best). Keep wet
for approximately 8 hours. Rinse off, and give a baking soda bath.
Repeat rinse. Method 3 - Apply Naval Jelly to affected areas per
label instructions. Follow instructions for removal and rinsing. The
key here is that some acids will aggressively remove the iron,
without damaging the 304 CRES. The Coca Cola and Naval Jelly have
phosphoric acid, and the nitric acid is obvious. I understand that
the Naval Jelly would work best in this application because of the
vertical surfaces that are probably affected. I hope this helps.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> Question on rust, years ago when I bought my Delorean I used steel
wool to polish the car, as I was told, I didn't know any better.
Needless to say, now I'm left with steel rust spots embedded in my
hood, fenders and other panels (NOT PRETTY). It cleans up nice, but
comes back 3-4 months later. Is there any way to rid of this problem
FOREVER????? Or am I screwed!!
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:31:25 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
John, I rebuild the original modules ( $35.00 ) and reduce the circuit
breaker amperage
($3.95) and don't lock the door from the inside and never had any problems.
Naturally the Lock Zilla is an excellent product.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: John Podlewski [mailto:john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
Adjusted my driver door today and both doors work great on their own.
However, I've had this problem for as long as I can remember. Driver door
only locks the pax. door from inside or outside but will NOT UNLOCK THE PAX.
DOOR at the same time. I can see the solenoids, both are working and
getting power and the switch is touching on the wiper arm for both door
contacts. The pax. door unlocks and locks the driver door great, so what
gives? One would think they run on the same circuits.
I thought I paid to have door lock module rebuilt last year, but it seems
maybe that is the problem, or maybe it was not done, I can't remember?
Will the LOCKZILLA correct this?
Eventually I want to install the launchers and the whole nine yards so I
want to get it right.
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 00:38:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
There are just 2 reasons this could happen. You need to go over ALL
the adjustments in BOTH doors. If this doesn't fix it then you will
have to replace or rewind the door lock solenoids. A Lockzilla WILL
NOT fix this problem or any other. It is ONLY meant to replace the
unreliable and failure-prone "impulse unit". It is also the building
block for the expected door launcher system from Zilla and the remote
locking system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> Adjusted my driver door today and both doors work great on their
own. However, I've had this problem for as long as I can remember.
Driver door only locks the pax.
>
> I thought I paid to have door lock module rebuilt last year, but it
seems maybe that is the problem, or maybe it was not done, I can't
remember?
>
> Will the LOCKZILLA correct this?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 19:54:51 EST
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Smoky shadows Pigeon Forge
I just talked to a DML participant that told me that he called Smoky Shadows
and they told him they were sold out.
IF you do not ask for the DeLorean Car Show you will be told it is sold out
because I have all the rooms.
This happens a lot unfortunately so I hope this helps.
There are plenty of rooms left I got the whole place.
We will have plenty of rooms until May 15th when I have to give back the non
reserved rooms then it will be tough to get one.
Hope this clears things up.
This was the second call today on it
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 03:59:04 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Missing Vacuum hose
Well I found a mess behind my mode switch...thanks for all the help
with it guys. The brown hose was connected into the orange hose at
it's T junction (basically system was vacuuming on itself)!!! So
once I hooked up the brown hose correctly the amount of air now
blowing out of the vent tripled!!
Now my problem is this:
In the parts manual it shows that the orange vacuum line operates the
re-circ and the water valve. I am missing the hose (or simply can't
find it) that operates the water valve that connects into the T
junction. (I capped it off until I can find the hose)
Where is the vacuum hose that operates the water valve routed as it
approaches the mode switch? Also where is the heater water valve
located?
Hope all of this makes sense...
Michael
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 00:57:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: CIS, abbreviation for what? (Was: Re: idle speed regulator)
The actual correct meaning of CIS is Continuous Injection System as
opposed to Pulsed Injection. This is a family of systems with
K-Jetronic w/ Lambda Control (aka K-Lambda) being the one we are
interested in. The main feature is that fuel is always being delivered
by the fuel injectors while the pump is running. It is easily
identified by the fact that the fuel injectors do not have any
electrical connectors on them as they would in a pulsed system.
Another way to look at the acronym CIS is on an old Delorean that
hasn't run in years is Corroded InSide. The idle system is called
Bosch Electronic Idle Speed Control System. There is no acronym.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Jan van de Wouw <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:23:30 -0000, Bill Robertson wrote:
>
> > CIS (Constant Idle Speed) system has been covered before
>
> Could be me, but I thought CIS was for
> Constant Injection System
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 02:11:54 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DOOR LOCKS PROBLEMS
You need to check the continuity of the contact switch of the
driver's door. Sometimes the connection is lost in the LUCAS harness
(surprise) at the connections under the T-Top. It is a nice job if
that's the problem but, you need to check it all the way to the lock
brain.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> Adjusted my driver door today and both doors work great on their
own. However, I've had this problem for as long as I can remember.
Driver door only locks the pax.
> I thought I paid to have door lock module rebuilt last year, but
it seems maybe that is the problem, or maybe it was not done, I
can't remember?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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