Re: [doc] Re: plunger in fuel distributer
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Re: [doc] Re: plunger in fuel distributer



Yes you can check it...

Remove the sensor from the car leaving the vacuum pipes on.
Blow through the vacuum pipe that is connected to the centre of the three pipe connectors.
You should hear air coming out of one of the other pipes only. (This should be connected to the Control Pressure Regulator (CPR).

Stick the Thermo Vac switch in boiling water for 5 minutes.

Blow through the vacuum pipe that is connected to the centre of the three pipe connectors.
You should hear air coming out of the 3rd pipe only. (This should be connected to the Vacuum Solenoid Switch situated behind the fuel distributor.

Lambda switch. Use a multimeter with the continuity function (the type that goes BEEP when the meters leads are connected together).. The switch should be short circuit ie closed when in room temp. Stick sensor in cold water and heat the water using a thermometer to heat above 15 degrees C. Once temp is above this, test the lambda switch, it should read open circuit (no BEEP).

If you were performing these tests on the car, you can pull the vacuum pipes from the CPR and Distributor vac solenoid and listen for inrushing air when the engine is running.

For the lambda test, check for continuity between pins 5 and 7 at the lambda ECU multiplug.
NOTE This switching is also done by the WOT (Wide Pen Throttle) switch that is on the throttle spool. Disconnect this WOT multiplug before testing.

Engine cold - continuity at pins 5 and 7
Hot engine - no continuity between pins 5 and 7
Hot Engine and WOT switch connected - continuity between pins 5 and 7 with WOT closed.

Also on this note, check that the vacuum pipe from the thermo vac switch to the dis vac solenoid goes to the correct connection on the vac solenoid.
You can test by removing the vac pipe to the distributor and listening for air. You should get no inrush of air when the engine is running at idle. Once you open the throttle slightly (open circuiting the BIG microswitch) you will lose the 12v at the pins on the distributor vac solenoid and it will allow vacuum to the distributor vac advance.

If you have a vac gauge, use a T piece with all tests.

I hope I have explained it OK without diagrams.

Hope this helps,

NickT.




blackaddertoo <blackaddertoo@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
hi

thanx. is there anyway to check the thermo vac? off the car.

ie what does it do when hot/cold?

the other sensor (lambda i think?) can that be checked? i have a
decent digital meter



--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
wrote:
>
> check the wiring from the sensors to the ECU as well.
> No good if the sensor is OK but the wiring back is broken/ shorted.
>
> Check that the thermistor is the correct part one too.
> My car had a different one that gave different resistance readings.
>
> room temp about 10kohm
> in freezer for a couple of hours 70 Kohms to 80 Kohms
>
> boiling water approx 4 Kohms to 7Kohms.
>
> figures are top off my head.
>
> Also make sure the thermo vac switch vacuum pipes go to the right
places. Follow the parts manual diagram for routing.
>
> I replaced my coolant pipe with a stainless one, put new rubber
rings on Y pipe, re-threaded every bolt and re-tapped every hole,
new 4 bolt water pump and pulley adaptor.
> I painted the engine with black engine paint.
>
> Good luck.
>
> NickT.
>
> I'll be at the NEC on Sunday........
>
> blackaddertoo wrote:
> hi
>
> i haven't yet as the engine is in pieces.
>
> i will once i put back together if it does not run.
>
> however i think it is a good idea to open up the valley for
> everyone, and clean up well. your coolant pipe will leak in there
> sometime-just a matter of when.
>
> there is some corrosion at the bottom-not bad though.
> for the sensors, if they work or not, while i am there better
> prevent further problems, particularly as not expensive as some
> other things.
>
> regards
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
> wrote:
> >
> > Checked fuel pressures yet?
> >
> > Use diagnostics rather than part swapping..
> >
> > NickT
> >
> > blackaddertoo wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > hi
> >
> > thanx for the reply.
> >
> > no there is no petrol in the venturi but looks pretty dirty.
> >
> > i have not got my engine to run ok more than 1 minute since i
> bought
> > her over from the US.
> >
> > after 30 secs chugs and dies.
> >
> >
> > restarts ok then does same.
> >
> > so am now doing the valley, plugs, rotor, cap, coolant pipe, y
> pipe
> > sensors, water pump, replace all o rings, clean venturi,
> > electroplate all brackets/bolts etc..
> >
> > anyhting else while i have 5 minutes??.
> >
> > also new petrol filter (did it 6 months ago but want to
eliminate
> a
> > problem for the sake of 10 quid)
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Mike Bosworth"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> > > It shouldnt be a 'very tight fit', if you hold the distributor
> up
> > in
> > > the air and push the plunger fully in and then let go, this
> should
> > > plop out of the bottom 'quite' quickly with a little friction.
> The
> > > seal on this part is through metal to metal contact.
> > >
> > > There should be no petrol in the air venturi, check out the
link
> i
> > > posted for its operation. Your not saying yours has :)?
> > >
> > > Kind Regards
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > #2001/403
> > >
> > > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "blackaddertoo"
> >
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > hi
> > > >
> > > > when i say did not come out immediately, just meant it was a
> > very
> > > > tight fit.
> > > > looks clean though.
> > > >
> > > > is the cavity under in the air venturi full of petrol when
> > running-
> > > i
> > > > assume not?.
> > > >
> > > > Regards
> > > >
> > > > Steve
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, DANIEL SHANE
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Adding onto Mikes words, each metering head and
> > > > > plunger are matched, you cant take a plunger from one
> > > > > head and put it in the other. These things are
> > > > > precision made.
> > > > >
> > > > > Try soaking it in acetone as it should not be
> > > > > sticking. If that fails you may need to get it
> > > > > rebuilt.
> > > > >
> > > > > Dan
> > > > >
> > > > > DMC Ltd.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Mike Bosworth
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "blackaddertoo"
> > > > >
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > the plunger did not come out immediately so does
> > > > > this mean it was
> > > > > > sticking or is this normal.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > At rest the 'plunger'is weighted should move freely
> > > > > downwards by
> > > > > gravity, the 'arm' on the metering flap moves this
> > > > > plunger up, if yours
> > > > > is sticking then this needs to be resolved, it will
> > > > > effect your running
> > > > > if it is sticking in certain positions.
> > > > >
> > > > > On cleaning this up be careful not to score the
> > > > > surface of the plunger
> > > > > it is a very delicately machined thing.I've heard
> > > > > people use acetone to
> > > > > clean it up. Make sure the little o ring is in place
> > > > > on the underside
> > > > > of the distributer where it bolts back on to the top
> > > > > of the metering
> > > > > head.
> > > > >
> > > > > A fuel pressure tester is a good investment when you
> > > > > have fuel issues.
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
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