Re: [DML] Fuse box replacement

["jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It also helps if you clean the tip often and then melt a little solder (tin) onto it. You should also be using 1/16 rosin core or smaller. An iron is nice because you do not have to always heat it up again after putting it down.
David Teitelbaum

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michael Griese <mike.griese@...> wrote:
>
> Andy - Those gun-style irons will be a challenge for what you are doing.  If you 
> are ever near Rochester, I could loan you a soldering station I have that is 
> perfect for this type of work.  I can also show you some techniques for making 
> the joints quickly and consistently.
> 
> One thing that can help is to tin the wire (get solder to flow onto/into the 
> wire), then try heating the joint.  
> 
> 
>  --
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Nick Kemp <nkemp@...>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Mon, August 27, 2012 3:33:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Fuse box replacement
> 
> Andy, Soldering is part art and part science. It is always difficult to 
> solder "flying" wires because you can't get a solid contact between the 
> iron and the wire and thus you don't get good heat transfer. If you 
> could get something to put under the connection so that you can push 
> against it while heating up the connection it will heat up faster. Don't 
> use metal because it will soak up too much heat. Use something like wood 
> or fiberglass sheets (like circuit boards)
> 
> Be careful melting the solder on the iron and not on the wire. It can 
> result in cold solders. A cold solder will be dull and does not show 
> good wicking. I find the best spot with problematic joints is that space 
> between the iron and the wire. The wire is often hot enough to take/wick 
> the solder for a good connection.
> 
> Don't flow too much solder. It makes the wires rigid and the weak point 
> becomes the point where there is no solder (not the connection). This is 
> especially true for high vibration connections. [It is a problem 
> encountered by a few home built airplanes.] For that matter, many 
> believe that a good crimp connection without solder is better than a 
> good connection with solder.
> 
> And ALWAYS use rosin core solder. Many have tried to use plain solder 
> (usually plumbing solder) and it will not take without using rosin with 
> it. This is true for wiring, circuit boards and plumbing. But I suspect 
> you already knew that.
> 
> See you at the Orchard.
> 
> Nick
> 
> 
> soma576 wrote , ----On 8/27/2012 2:52 PM ---------------------------:
> >
> > Hey all,
> >
> > 11596 is getting a new fuse box. I've had a few of the critical fuses 
> > in jumpers for well over a decade. I always hated messing around in my 
> > electrical compartment for fear of knocking something loose and 
> > causing Bad Things.
> >
> > I got the new fuse box kit from DMCMW and a proper barrel crimper. Not 
> > only am I crimping everything perfectly but I'm also soldering the 
> > connections. Should be trouble-free for a long time.
> >
> > Anyway the kit is coming along nicely but as you can expect it takes a 
> > long time to do right. Took me about 4 hours just to do 7 fuses last 
> > night. After crimping and soldering I'm putting 3/4" of heat shrink 
> > tubing on the connection.
> >
> > One thing that baffles me is how long it can take to heat up the 
> > connection so the solder will flow. I'm using a 140 watt gun-style 
> > iron with flat blade tip. Once the tip is hot I can melt the solder on 
> > the tip in less than a second, but it often takes well over a minute 
> > to heat up the connector. It might have something to do with "tinning" 
> > the tip - once I flowed some solder onto the tip, shook it off, then 
> > went right for the connector which took solder in under 3 seconds. 
> > Other times it takes what seems like forever.
> >
> > Anyone have any great tips to make this go faster?
> >
> > Andy
> >
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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