RE: [DML] Bad Alternator?

["Tom Tait" <TTait@xxxxxxxxxx>]

The squealing relates to bad or dying bearing sin the alternator.  If it
seized you would have likely hear a lot more noise than that.

 

Removing the alternator isn't a terrible job, and many auto parts stores
will test it for you.  

 

It may be as simple a problem as the bulg in your dash that indicates a
charging system fault - if that goes bad the alternator won't kick in,
believe it or not.  That light should have come on I think, if your
alternator was dead, and you don't mention it, so it could be that
simple.

 

I've heard of D owners with a good battery ablt to drive their cars for
20 plus miles just on the battery,  that's probably what you were doing
too.  Get a charger on the battery very soon and bring it back up to
full charge ASAP - don't let it sit around depleted.

 

I'd say first, put the battery on charge.  

 

Then pull the alternator and have it tested.  

 

If the alternator is good,  pull the binnacle and replace all the bulbs
in there. (Pulling the binnacle may be just a bit harder than the
alternator.) If you upgrade to LEDs you still need to use an original
bulb for your charging system indicator, you can't use an LED in that
one.

 

If you buy a new alternator, there are several choices.  Consider your
power consumption needs.  The Motorola is 90 amps and just adequate for
the car when it is fully stock.  Several vendors sell 110a alternators,
Hervey sells these and even more powerful ones in case you are
installing a new stereo and hungry amplifier, etc. 

 

Do keep in mind that more powerful alternators have a trade off.
Generally the higher the amperage the higher the engine RPMs have to be
before it will kick on.  My 140a alternator does not charge the battery
at slow idle - it will not begin to charge until 

I hit about 900rpms.  If I have the headlights, my new stereo and the AC
all running my voltage does dip and then decline while sitting at a red
light, even though I have a bigger alternator.  My car has never stalled
or died as a result, but if I sat long enough it could eventually.

 

Good luck...

 

Tom

 

 

 

________________________________

From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of sweetp01569
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 12:32 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Bad Alternator?

 

For the past several months, the bearings on my alternator would 
squeal a bit when starting the engine. (I have an 82 with 30,000 
miles on it). My mechanic confirmed that I'd need a new one sooner 
or later. On Saturday, when I started the car for a ride, the 
engines started right up,then all of a sudden, cut out. I started 
it again, it ran for a few seconds, then just died again. The car 
started the third time, allowing me to start down the street. After 
a couple of miles, the engine just died again, where I had to coast 
to a stop on the side of the road. The car would not start after 
that. It would crank and crank, but did not fire up. The voltmeter 
showed about 8 volts. After getting it towed home, I jumpered the 
fuel pump to make sure it turned on. It did. I then tried to start 
the car. It kicked on for a second then died. Battery still seems 
to crank strongly, but no ignition. Voltage still shows about 8 
volts. Is this symptoms of a bad alternator?

Thanks,

Paul
vin10944

 



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