Re: [DML] Re: Not passing emissions
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Re: [DML] Re: Not passing emissions
- From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 16:14:38 +0200
Did you adjust that screw ?
If yes and ist still sometime stays at the higher idle,
it could be the same problem that I had lately.
The shaft of the butterflys turns very smoothly - as long as
the engine is off and no vacuum / air pressure pushing it.
But as soon as the engine was running, the shaft didn't fully
return to the idle position. I guess the bearings of the shaft
are worn out a bit.
I could solve the problem (at least for a certain time) by
readjusting/bending the spring on that arm - so the spring pulls it
a bit stronger in the idle position.
If works for now and maybe fo thr next few years, but I am
sure somewhen in the future I have to replace that butterfly
assembly. I bet there are many cars out there which have the
same problem as high idle is very common....
Elvis & 6548
> So far I passed all of that,
> However, I have a high idle situation that I didn't think was
> relevant and now, well, I am grasping at straws. If I push the switch
> with a screw driver it will return to below 800, but when I let off it
> rises to about 1150. I've tried adjusting the screw on the arm
> attached by a shaft to the throttle spool that pushes that switch but
> it just does not see to go far enough to actuate the switch. There is
> a small amount of play on that arm, too. Could the switch be bad and
> too hard for the screw to push? Is something out of adjustment?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
> VIN 16816
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@...> wrote:
> >
> > Make sure the timing is set right, and the vacuum advance is hooked up
> > correctly and working. On the Island setup there is no mechanical
> > advance. Check for vacuum leaks. You may have to adjust the mixture
> > but do not do it to compensate for vacuum leaks. They have to be fixed
> > first. Pull the output pipes from the turbos to the intake manifold
> > and if the insides are oily you have to have the leaky turbo rebuilt.
> > You may need to replace the silicone hoses and clamps on the Island
> > turbo plumbing. They MUST not leak. Check the control hoses too. Any
> > leaks will allow you to overboost. Pull the oil fill and you should
> > not see any pressure coming out. You can hold a piece of paper over
> > the opening to determine if air is coming out of the crankcase. You
> > should be running synthetic oil on a turbo car.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "M. P. Olans" <mpolans@> wrote:
> > >
> > > OK,
> > > This is frustrating. Two years ago I had to do a full tune-up to
> > > pass emissions. This year, same thing. However, even after the
> > > tuneup, my CO is still too high. NOx and HC's are really low so I
> > > know the O2 sensor and cats are doing their job. However, I am at a
> > > loss here. I did plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Gapped them to .025
> > > since the manual said .024-.028 IIRC. Car runs great and has power
> > > just like before. It is an Island Twin Turbo. So, any hints? I'm
> > > running about 25g/mile CO and the limit is 20. When I got it from Rob
> > > it tested at 11 g/mile, and then after the first tune-up it was also
> > > 11 g/mile. What am I missing? I cleaned my K&N air filter last
> > > month. I haven't changed my fuel filter in probably 4 years, but how
> > > could that affect emissions?
> > >
> > > What am I missing?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Matt
> > > The Arizona DeLorean Club
> > > www.az-d.org
> > >
> >
>
>
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>
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