RE: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything

[<rob@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Sean,

 

Definitely?.you need to have the emissions set up using a gas analyzer
and/or an analog dwell meter. The procedure is in the Workshop Manual
(Section D:04:01). Since it?s running you can try adjusting the 3mm Allen
screw by ?ear? to stabilize the idle until you can get it properly set up.

 

Thanks again,

 

Rob Grady

   _____  

From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
seanhagan
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 10:26 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything

 

Rob
The plunger up versus down (man do i feel dumb there!) fixed the no-
start issue. Now that I think of it, i mucked with the fuel cut-off 
switch when I went out of state recently... 

The car started up great!

Love the look of the stainless lines running under there, and the 
car when moving sounds like a new car...

Question on the idle though... i seem to be watching the rpm needle 
bounce between 500 and 1500.. If I feather the gas, i can get her to 
rest at 1000... Someone in AZ-D mentioned today that he thought that 
this is caused by the Lambda unit? 

Could it be that CO screw is out of adjustment?

Sean

-Rob - it was definitely a pleasure doing business with you. 

--- In HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
<rob@...> wrote:
>
> Sean,
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the parts you mentioned came from us so a warm thank you 
is in order
> for your support. Although we're busy prepping for the show feel 
free to
> contact us for tech support when needed. First the plunger must 
be down to
> ground, and operate, the fuel pump. Next confirm the fuel pump is 
operating
> when cranking the engine before you proceed. Next you should 
unclip one
> injector from the head and perch it over a metal or plastic 
container. Have
> some one crank the motor and look for a light stream of fuel at 
the nozzle
> tip. If none appears turn the CO adj. screw clockwise until a 
small stream
> appears. The car will not start if this adjustment is out by more 
than a
> turn or two and a new distributor almost always needs adjusting to 
make the
> engine start. Call if you need more info.
> 
> 
> 
> Rob Grady,
> 
> 
> 
> P.J.Grady Inc.
> 
> 
> 
> _____ 
> 
> From: HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:HYPERLINK
"mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On 
Behalf Of
> seanhagan
> Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 4:26 AM
> To: HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
> 
> 
> 
> I have posted in the past here, and have gotten some really good 
> answers. 
> So here is my issue...
> 
> I ordered alot of new fuel parts for my car from one of the 
vendors.
> I got all of the lines plugged in, and all of the new fuel 
> components attached to my car. I replaced the battery, because the 
> old one would not keep a charge, and the car will not start. I 
have 
> absolutely no idea why. 
> 
> The starter seems to crank, I am not 100% certain about the status 
> of where the plunger needs to be on the fuel cutoff switch (up or 
> down), but i have it pulled up, and I am getting just repeated 
> cranking...
> 
> I unscrewed a line at the top of the fuel distributor, I could 
hear 
> air leak out, and gas, but the car would not fire. 
> 
> Here is what I have put in new
> New fuel line from the pump to the hard line.
> New Accumulator
> New Fuel Distributor
> New Fuel filter
> New Lines the 13 pack... so all the lines coming off the filter 
into 
> the engine bay of the car are new and of the stainless braided 
> variety.
> New Banjo bolts - all of them new (but one, I broke it, cleaned 
out 
> an old one of the same and used it)
> I Scrubbed out the tank with acetone and let dry.
> New Warm-up regulator
> New battery
> No baffle, for extraneous reasons - me breaking it - I have the 
> Special T Auto setup. When i previously had it in the tank, it 
> worked like a charm. That is what I get for having it hold the 
line 
> to the bottom of the tank for the syphon.
> 4 gallons of new gas (bought it today)
> New fuel pump.
> New Fuel tank filter screen.
> New injectors (6 of them)
> New rubber thingys that attach to the injectors.
> 
> Followed the diagram which is present in one of the news sites. 
> 
> All is connected very tight... The one I broke, i tightened too 
> much, and it just twisted itself off at the hole, the hole did not 
> seem to be crushed. Checked others and the holes in the banjo 
bolts 
> are not squished.
> 
> How much gas do all of the components have/hold?
> 
> It cranks and cranks but does not turn over... Thoughts?
> 
> Could it be too much air in the system, and if so, would it not be 
> sent back via the return line to the tank? or do i have to wait 
for 
> the air to make it out of the injectors. 
> 
> Sean
> -3372
> AZ-D
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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>

 


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