[DML] Re: oil leak in valley-o-death (was first week of ownership blues (crankshaft seal))

["natesky1980" <ncskalsk@xxxxxxx>]

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Maybe you can find someone with a innershield aluminum mig welder? 
> They could weld a thick bead of weld over the whole, and that fix 
> would easily last for a while with proper penetration.
> 

Thanks for all the reply's.  I think cbl and Joe both are on the right 
track for a perm fix (welding a al plate across the honeycomb, or at 
least welding the hole's shut at the tops.  The problem I have is that 
I'm not up for removing the engine right now, especialy if it can be 
fixed via other methods (even if they are less palatable).  From the 
looks of what i've seen, the valves, etc. the engine could use a 
rebuild.  

I went with a variation of the cavity approach that Dave suggested, and 
was infamously detremental to one engine, but I belive if done 
correctly there shouldn't be any epoxy entering the hole.  I cut a 
peice of aluminum that fit the wall of the cavity that contains the 
hole.  On the back of this peice I put a good, but not excessive amount 
of JB Weld.  I pressed it against the side of the cavity and put 
springs in to continue to press it while it cured ~15hours.  I then 
filled the cavity with devcon(sp) epoxy (comes in a self mixing 
syringe).  By having the plate with jb weld on it (litteraly a bandaid 
for cars) I could then expoxy the hole, with some pressure and not fear 
seapage.

If it works, I'll drive the car in a short radius of my home and in a 
month or so I will take it apart and see how its holding up.  

The 'perfect' situation in my mind, would be to find another b28f out a 
wrecked Delorean or a volvo with the same basic engine.  A delorean 
engine would be best, as I would have all the parts I need to rebuild 
and prep the engine without having to the current engine apart. 

I considered a engine swap (nothing larger, just something more 
available).  Tempting, but I think no matter how you crunch the numbers 
swaping in or rebuilding the prv is gotta be cheaper, and arguably 
better for the long term value of the car.   

I'll let everyone know what the status of the fix is once I put it back 
together.  I'm started to drill out the intake bolt, I want to do it 
right so I'm going to finish it later.  Any problems with securing the 
intake with the three remaining bolts (anti-seized of course) and 
leaving the fourth out (leak air much)? 

Thanks

-Nate
vin 11501    







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