Re: [DML] I hate my doors

["Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Don't worry, Ryan.  They will be back to smooth closing bliss in no time. 
Here are a couple items I learned when I did this:

1.  NEVER do it in the winter time (ask me how I know).  The seals are 
waaaay too hard to work when they're cold.

2.  Did you pull them tight when you put them on?  If not, remove them and 
start over again.  Also make sure the orientation is correct (call the 
vendor if necessary).  This time put the first couple inches on then pull 
those mothers as tight as you can (it may help to have an assistant).  As 
you pull the hell out of them, use a rubber mallet to beat those things on 
the lip.  If you stretch them on tight, you will lower the pinchable seal by 
quite a bit.

3.  After the seal is on, spray a bunch of silicone lube on a rag and 
thoroughly wipe them down.  It will also decrease the likelihood of 
pinching, and it makes the seal last a lot longer.

As for the striker, I seem to remember you having an early VIN?  If so, the 
holes for the striker adjustment is much smaller than the later cars.  The 
later cars had larger holes cut with the addition of black rubber grommets 
to cover the excess hole.  Buy some of these grommets and increase the hole 
by trimming away the fiberglass until you can reach the point you need.  Be 
careful not to trim so much that you can't cover it up.  A vendor will be 
able to tell you the right size hole-saw to use, but I didn't find it 
necessary.  Then remove both striker pins from the door, and begin with the 
back one.

Slowly close the door making small adjustments as necessary.  It will take 
some trial and error, but you'll get better as you go.  Bear in mind the 
"arc" the door makes when closing.  That is, typically your adjustment will 
not just be up or down, but possibly "up and out" or "down and in."  Adjust 
the striker so that it glides directly into the latch and that the latch 
closes to the second position, but don't mess with the door locks during 
this.  You should only be concerned with the latching at this point.  Once 
you think you have it, close the door and push down several times on the 
stainless at the rear of the stationary glass.  The door should be "tight" 
with no bouncing on the seal or rattle on the latch.  When you've got this, 
make sure the pin doesn't move and that it is good and tight.  Then move to 
the front pin and repeat, only cuss a lot more.

Even after all this, you may still need to park the car in the sun for a 
while before those seals fully seat themselves.  Just make sure the seal 
isn't getting pinched.  After a week or so, they'll be closing as 
effortlessly as a normal car door.

Good luck!

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 8:42 PM
Subject: [DML] I hate my doors


> Who designed these ridiculous doors, anyway? I'm not sure this whole
> "gull wing" thing is worth the hassle.
>
> I'm only half joking.
>
> Anyway, can someone teach me how to adjust these things? Ever since I
> put new seals on the passenger side door it hasn't closed properly.
> Best as I can tell the rear striker pin needs to move up further,
> except it's as high up as it can possibly go. If I move it in toward
> the car, it lines up, but then it's too far away from the door latch
> and once the door is closed it won't reopen except from the inside
> (too much pressure). If I move it down from the very top it doesn't
> line up at all.
>
> So it's as far out as possible and as far up as possible and it's
> still not lining up and I can't get the door to reliably work
> smoothly. Right now it's in it's stuck position and can only be opened
> from the inside and after an hour and a half of non-stop screwing with
> it I'm fed up.
>
> Please help...
>
> -Ryan
>
>
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