[DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

["stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

Thank you to everyone who responded to my message and helping me with 
my ongoing troubles! Driving the car home it was running so bad 
[rich] that the only way I could make it idle and drive was to unplug 
the frequency valve from the bulkhead-and the car behaves somewhat 
normal now except still a misfire. Will unplugging this damage 
anything? Now I'll slow down and list the things I've replaced and my 
findings when scouting around the engine bay; maybe someone can 
identify an additional problem from my observations. 

I just took the 
intake off the other day, and the air passages of the mixture unit 
and intake were covered with black sludge [dirty air filter from 
PO?]. The intake ports [in the heads] were clean on the bottoms, but 
sides and tops have black soot, almost like carbon that's burned on, 
whatever it was- it was hard to clean off. I have the aftermarket 
filter from John Hervey, I keep it very clean so I'm imaging the 
gummy black stuff was accumulated over the course of the last 24 
years. All plugs had carbon on them indicating a rich (?) mixture. I 
rebuilt the mixture control unit to make sure there was nothing 
leaking air, sure enough #102772 was leaking [now fixed]. Upon 
inspection of the cap; the contacts were burned so I put on a new cap 
with the old rotor, I'm still waiting for the new one to come in 
[just ran to advance for these]. 

I just rebuilt the distributor 
[ignition] plus I have another one on the way which I'm going to swap 
with mine as well as a new tach wire. I tested the cold start valve 
and frequency valve, crimped and made sure everything is connecting 
well. I've replaced the plugs, wires, rotor 2 years ago (>6KMI on 
these). I just did the cap, and I replaced the lambda sensor 1 year 
ago. The CPR I've never replaced and many people have told me this 
could be one of my problems. 

So if you know me-like anything else 
that doesn't work-I ripped it off and opened it up to see if I could 
fix it. Fried wires; the white one (not the one with the green wrap 
on it) coming from the contact of the plug- melted the cover right 
off, and the second white wire that goes to the connector on the bolt 
was missing a good section that looked as if a good short blew it 
apart. 

So I found at least one of my problems, but what would cause 
this to happen? Without the heating parts working inside could this 
cause many of my described problems? Is there anything I should or 
can do or unplug to compensate for the bad CPR? I will check out the 
spark wires tomorrow, yeah I'm good with rebuilding engines and 
transmissions etc, but even a rocket scientist can cross a wire; it's 
that easy to do. I'm actually hoping that's what I did! I figured I 
may as well see if any of the wires are dead while I'm at it. I'll 
test the fuel pressures, voltages and ignition components as well. 
Hopefully after all of this I'll have a trouble-free car again! 
Also 
when it comes to CO adjustments, I can go the full range between rich 
and lean, and the FV doesn't wanna run continuously, but more at an 
erratic pace. If I push in the full throttle switch only then does it 
run continuously and sound `healthy'. Is this because of the CPR? By 
the way, I'm doing all the tests and adjusting with the O2 sensor 
unplugged just incase. Thanks again for ALL the help, explanations 
and answers! -----Dani B. #5003







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