Re: [DML] Fw: door lift cylinders (dampening)

["Matt Spittle" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>]

VB,

I have the PJ Grady struts and they work very well for me.  While 
they *do* have the dampening valve in them, I find it seems to do 
little as far as preventing bouncing if your torsion bars are really 
wound up.  The better alternative, as everyone else suggests, seems 
to be to unwind your torsion bar a bit.  That's what I did. 

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob@xxxx> 
wrote:
> 
> I will be honest, Hervery suggested that very thing and you may be 
100% 
> correct.
> However, they were perfect when I had the old struts on, it does 
not change 
> the fact
> that there is no dampener to the strut.
> There needs to be a reversed valve that slows the strut down before 
it gets 
> to the top.
> I guess I need to try out a few different models so I can see the 
> difference.
> - VB
> 
> >From: Soma576@xxxx
> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: RE: [DML] Fw: door lift cylinders
> >Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 16:25:35 -0500
> >
> >
> >
> ><<<If anyone is interested, I can make a video showing how the 
doors open 
> >with
> >these
> >shocks and you can tell me if it is normal or not.
> >
> >- VB>>>>>
> >
> >VideoBob,
> >
> >Are you sure your torsion bars aren't overtightened a notch or 
two?  If you 
> >remove the piston from the door and let the door hang, it should 
only have 
> >a couple inches of space from being closed.  If you have much more 
than 
> >that, the bars are too tight.  It's likely a previous owner may 
have 
> >cranked them up one because the struts were about dead and this 
way they 
> >opened better!
> >
> >Andy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators@xxxx
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
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> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








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