Re: Overheating problem

["Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>]

More than likely you still have air in the system - probably an air 
lock at the radiator. A water pump gone bad usually makes noise and 
leaks but still functions - unless it froze, and is not turning, 
which might explain the belt thing. An alternator lockup will cause 
the same belt mess too. Did you check for rotation on the water pump 
and alternator?

If all seems ok, I would recommend, when cool, loosening the bleed 
hose on the top of the radiator and bleeding off any trapped air in 
the radiator. It is on the passenger side - the smaller hose. It is 
a little awkward and you will probably have some coolant spill out - 
but at least you know the air is out then.

Now that the radiator is full of coolant, check the reservoir again 
and fill to the maximum recommended level. Next bleed off any air at 
the thermostat housing air-bleed fitting. The extra bleed off kit is 
not a necessity in my opinion - the engine bleed is more than enough 
to get the air out of a properly functioning system.

Start it up and watch for the recirculation stream in the coolant 
bottle. If there is a stream at least the engine is circulating 
coolant. As the engine warms monitor the recirculation stream. If it 
stops, open the thermostat bleed fitting and let any air escape. I 
will often put a hose over the fitting and let it bleed constantly 
into a container until I am through with the system. Keep the 
coolant tank at the max recommended level.

As the engine continues to warm also monitor the hot side hose for 
circulation. As the thermostat starts to opens - the temp gage 
should be at the first white mark up the bottom mark - it will start 
to get hot indicating circulation. Trapped air, if any will begin to 
flow through the system. It may bubble up in the tank - Just keep 
plenty of coolant in the tank. If the return hose to the pump is 
getting warm at this point you should have enough circulation on the 
system that it will bleed off by it self now. Keep the coolant 
bottle at the correct level and when the fans come on turn on the 
heater - just turn the air dial to vent. That will allow the heater 
valve to open and remove any air in the heater. After the fans cycle 
off, turn off the engine, be sure the coolant bottle is at the max 
level or slightly over and put the cap on. Take it for a test drive. 
If nothing internally is wrong you should be good to go.

I would keep a spare belt in the trunk and the tools needed to put 
it on. That belt probably came off because of a problem - the 
alternator bearing would be my guess.

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom@xxxx> wrote:
> I had a little "issue" the other day, and have had problems with 
> overheating ever since.
> 
> Let me start out by stating that the cooling fans ARE working. 
> (Finally got those fixed, Toby!)
> 
> Anyway, as I'm pulling into the parking lot at work, I see steam 
from 
> the engine compartment, and see my temp gauge way up high. I park 
it, 
> and see that the alternator belt is chewed up and flown off, and 
the 
> hose from the overfill to the water pump has come disconnected 
from 
> the pump. 
> 
> So, I reconnected the hose, and replaced both belt.
> 
> Drove the car home, and the car was giving erratic temp readings. 
> But, was definitly still running hot.
> 
> I installed the coolant bleeding kit, started it up, and it got up 
to 
> 220 degrees, at which point I shut off the car. I did this once 
> yesterday, and once today. It normally does not run this hot.
> 
> No fluids are leaking, and when I run the car without the cap on 
the 
> overfill tank, I see no "spurts" of fluid coming into the tank.
> 
> I always assumed when a water pump goes bad, it leaks coolant. I 
> replaced the water pump 3 years ago..is it bad already?
> 
> Thoughts?