Re: Rear Main Seal Replacement

["Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx>]

Take the axles all the way out of the car. Just remove all those big 
bolts at both ends, they come right out in one piece including the CV 
joints (good time to re-build those too). Worst part of the entire 
job is that shift linkage. Be sure to remove the rear link from the 
car, don't just unhook the transmission end. It will just be in the 
way. It also simplifies things a little if you take the trans mounts 
off the trans before you pull it out. 

Second worst part is putting it back in (very heavy!!). I've done it 
on the floor and on a lift, believe me the lift makes it LOTS easier. 

Dave Swingle <--just did one Sunday, doing another in a couple of 
weeks if you'd like to watch/help (northern IL)

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm still struggling to make a plan of attack for my blown head 
> gasket and oil/coolant leak. I had decided on a total engine 
rebuild, 
> but I have been advised that it's just un-necessary by the good 
folks 
> in Houston.
> 
> After crawling under my car, I've pretty much confirmed that the 
> crank seal is the source of a large oil/coolant leak (I know, 
you're 
> saying that if that was the problem, there wouldn't be coolant in 
> it). I believe I have a combination of problems.
> 
> Warren has advised me to just drop the tranny in my driveway and 
> replace the seal. After I undo the bell-housing bolts and the shift 
> linkage, what do I do about the drive axeles? Do they just slip off 
> with enough clearance, or do I have to undo the large bolts at the 
CV 
> joint? At which end of the axle, the transmission side, or the 
wheel 
> side?
> 
> Anyone ever do this before? Anyone nearby want to help? Thanks.
> 
> Rich 
> #5335- MD